Access to Cheung Chau will normally (unless you live in Mui Wo / Peng Chau) be gained via the New World First Ferry from Pier No. 5 of Central Ferry Pier. Schedules in 2020 are provided below, but should be checked against the NWFF website to ensure accurate times are followed.
As a boulderer and assuming you’ll be taking a pad with you, only Ordinary Ferry Services can be used as luggage is not permitted on the Fast Ferries. The ordinary ferry takes about an hour to travel between Central and Cheung Chau:
|Weekdays & Saturdays||Sundays & Public Holidays|
|Central to Cheung Chau||06:10; 07:40; 09:00; 10:15; 11:15; 12:15; 13:15; 14:15; 15:15; 16:15; 17:20; 18:00; 18:45; 19:30; 19:40; 20:30; 21:30; 22:30; 23:30||06:30; 07:30; 08:30; 09:30; 10:30; 11:30; 12:30; 13:30; 14:30; 15:30; 16:30; 17:30; 18:30; 19:30; 20:30; 21:30; 22:30; 23:30|
|Cheung Chau to Central||05:50; 06:40; 07:15; 07:50; 08:40; 10:00; 11:15; 12:15; 13:15; 14:15; 15:15; 16:15; 17:15; 18:20; 19:30; 20:30; 21:30; 22:30; 23:30||06:30; 07:30; 08:30; 09:30; 10:30; 11:30; 12:30; 13:30; 14:30; 15:30; 16:30; 17:30; 18:30; 19:30; 20:30; 21:30; 22:30; 23:30|
The main sectors of bouldering on Cheung Chau currently developed are situated on the south coast of the island, pretty much covering the entire coastal extent from the Reclining Rock in the southwest all the way to the Jade Seal in the southeast.
Don Bosco Boulder
The Don Bosco Boulders are situated on the southeast corner of Cheung Chau, beneath the Fa Peng area. Access to this area is made by making your way from the ferry pier towards Don Bosco Road Garden. Continue south passed the garden before continuing a short way east along Don Bosco Road until a small dirt trail breaks right off this (at about 22.203227, 114.036571). Follow this trail down the hill to reach some intermittent granite slabs, which are then followed down hill to reach the coastline below. Once at the coast, head right for the Seascape Sector or left for the Don Bosco and Jade Seal Sectors. Access to these latter two sectors can also be gained from the east, from the end of the Mini Great Wall Trail.
Don Bosco Sector
Warm Up Bloc
The small block sitting on the granite slabs has a number of fun problems that are great for warming the fingers (and arms) up for some of the more testing problems hereabouts.
1) The Don (sds) * V4
Start sat on the right side of the small face. Using the crack with your right and side pull on the left, lift off and then traverse diagonally left across the face to finish on the upper left side of the wall.
2) Hollow Flake (sds) ** V1
Sit start at the base of the hollow flake on the left of the face before climbing this to the top of the boulder.
3) Undercut (sds) ** V1
Sit start in the middle of the wall. Powerfully pull off the floor to reach the good crimps and flakes on the wall above. Finish more easily up these.
4) Don’s Flake ** V2
Sit strata the base of the right trending flake line, either matched on undercuts in the flake or also making use of other holds low down and out left. Crank up on these and then follow the right trending flake to the top.
5) Bosco Arete
Start using a positive input crimp on the arete and the undercut flake out left. From these, work you way up the undercut/flake and arete to gain the top of the block. A harder variant is possible at V3 moving straight from the start holds to the lefthand gaston flakes up high.
The wall behind Warm Up Bloc has a couple of fun problems on its left side. The remainder is yet to be scaled due to its height and general lack of holds.
1) C’s Arete ** V5
The left arête of the wall has a tenuous start, which is followed by an equally tenuous move to the ledge above. From here, good holds thankfully bring easier climbing in the upper part.
2) Not So High * V6?
Start precariously balanced on the arête before launching up and right to gain the break up and right. Pull back left from this to finish up the main arête.
1) Supercoolio *** V4/5?
Start matched on the large jug hold on the arete and then power up and right from this, finishing with a precarious pull on to the slab above.
2) Gangsters Paradise (sds) *** V8
Sit start with the large pocket for right hand and a small hold in the seam for the left. Power up from these to (somehow) gain the large jug hold on the arête, before finishing as for Supercoolio.