Birds Nest Crag


To reach Central Crags’ Birds Nest Crag, follow the approach to Mid-Levels Crag but continue up the slab rather than breaking off left. From the top of the slab continues on up the hill, staying left and following a fixed rope up a short scramble, to reach the base of the lefthand side of the crag.  For the buttress on the right follow a trail leading off before the fixed rope and then scramble up to ledges at the base of the climbing.



Download the latest PDF guide for the crag here 

General Overview


Bird Nest Left Topo

1 – Black Magic – F6b**
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Paul Collis, Cosmin Andron & Willie Muirhead (2007)

3 – Birds Nest Soup – HS **
Up the crack / corner and then finish left with a belly crawl around the boulder at the top
F.A. Jason Eng & Simon Smith (2004)

3a – Birds Nest Direct – VS 4c **
As for birds Nest Soup but finish up and over the roof at the top.
Ed Pramuk, Tom Chew & Dan Hannah (2006)

5) Out with the Old ** F7b
Hard opening moves involving crimping on razor blades in shoulder dislocating positions (sound nice?) leads to superb and slightly dynamic climbing up the blunt arete above.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)

The blocks that you step off at the start of the above route are currently very precarious and pending stabilisation. Please avoid for the time being.

6) Poison Ivy ***  F8b+
The obvious blank slab is broken by a thin vertical crack. Start using the arête for the right hand then get creative to somehow work your way up the face to the thin seam, which is followed left across the face to a couple of mono’s just before the anchor out left.
F.A Steve Townshend (2020)
Equipped  by Laurent Jacob in 2012

Steve Townshend cutting loose and flying up Poison Ivy (F8b+). Photo: Chris Tang

Easy Route – V Diff
F.A. Simon Smith and Jason Eng (2004)


7 – Big Bird – F5**

8- Lascar – F6c**
Climb the obvious and diagonally left slightly overhanging crack. The climb gets progressivelly harder, not jumping on the belay being part of the game.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

9 – Contribution – F6c+**
Start Lascar using the first bolt before  moving right through the steep wall ahead before the crux to reach the upper edge of the crag just before the belay.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

10 – Concrete Poetry – F7b *
A somewhat weird and unique hybrid route. Start immediatelly beneath the large concrete block filling the left side of the overhanging corner. Crank through the lower wall on crimps and flakes to reach a mono pocket beside the concrete. Use this and weep holes in the concrete itself to get established in the crack above. Continue up the flying arête to reach the lower off.
F.A.  Laurent Jacob (2012)

11 – Unbeatable – F8b
The overhanging prow using small crimps and slopes on both sides with many hazardous heel hooks and dyno moves. Looks awesome.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2013).
Equipped  by Laurent Jacob in 2012

12 – Brainstorm – F6c**
Start below the obvious overhanging corner and climb it to the top. Easy start then the things become a bit complex with unusual  holds and body positions.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

13 – Orange Gutter –
F.A. Jason Eng (2004)

14 – Golliwogal Lives – F6a*
On the left of “Trousers Off” an original trad route , completely cleaned from dangerous and loose rocks (there might be some more to be epoxy resin fixed) originally named : Gaullywogol Live
F.A. Dan Hannah

15 – Trousers Off – F6b+*
From the ledge on the right side. A route with an interesting hard start ,strenuous moves leading to an easier ending. Delicate second bolt clipping. Belayer needs to watch carefully.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

16 – Robocop – F7a*
A 4 bolt short but spicy route. A lot of holds have been reinforced with epoxy resin. Hence the name of the route , half natural, half artificial. There are 5 or 6 weird moves on the first bolt before reaching a clipping position for the second bolt. Follow the bolts and use the arete on the right. A possible harder line if you avoid the arete completely.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

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