Easy Access Boulders

Access

Note: if anyone finds an Insta360 OneX Camera and tripod up here, grateful if you could give me a shout at stuart@hongkongclimbing.com – have a suspiscion i left mine behind when i documented his area…

The bouldering areas on Tai Mo Shan are all accessed from Tai Mo Shan Road, which in itself is accessed from Route Twisk. For those approaching on public transport,  your best bet is to take the MTR to Tsuen Wan or Tsuen Wan West Stations. From either of these you can then take the #51 Lui Kung Tin Tsuen bus to Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre. From here you’ll have to hike up Tai Mo Shan Road a fair way to reach the bouldering areas themselves. A better option is to just grab a taxi from the MTR station to avoid (or at least cut down) the amount of hiking needed.

Easy Access Boulders

The first set of boulders encountered are located on the ridgeline overlooking the lower part of Tai Mo Shan Road and can be accessed either by hiking uphill from the Visitor Centre or (more easily) from the large parking and picnic areas two-thirds of the way up Tai Mo Shan Rd. From the parking area, cross the road and follow the path left back down along the ridge line for 10 minutes to reach the boulder on the second summit area (the first summit area containing a bunch of blocs that are sadly just too small to give anything really worthwhile)

The Crazy Boulder

Details coming soon. For now, see here for problem info

1) Crazy Mantle V2
A short problem of little merit on the right side of the face.

2) Crazy *** V2
Start on the slope at the base of the groove, Slap out left for the jug on the arete, before reaching right to good side pulls on the edge of the groove. Rock right to finish with trepidation up the groove itself.

3) Crazy (sds) *** V3
Sit start matched on the low flake and make a powerful pull up to the start of Crazy, which is then followed to the top. It is also possible (and kinda fun) to climb this problem without the jug on the arête too.

4) Pandemic *** V4
The right arête of the main face gives a fine, and slightly scary line. Start sat on the boulder beneath the face and pull on using the small pocket and good side pull (avoiding the lower block for feet). Crank up for the arête jug before slapping up the rounded arête to [hopefully] gain the positive portion high up. Continue up the arête to finish.

5) Crazy Pandemic ** V3
Link the start of Pandemic to the finish of Crazy. Very fun and mostly juggy, until the top out that is… Can also be climbed the other way around too (i.e. sit start of Crazy into the top of Pandemic via the jug on the arête) at about V4.

6) Crazy Horse *** V8
Start from a high sloper on the right side of the arête with the right and good crimp slightly lower down and on the left wall with the left. From these make desperate slaps up the arête to eventually get established on the lip on the right side, from which it is possible to top out.

7) Black Tongue Project (sds) ***
The sit start to Crazy Horse from small pockets near the base of the arête is likely to yield a fierce and desperate struggle in the V9-10 range. Tried by some of the strongest n HK but unsent at present…

Will Copeland trying the Black Tongue Project. Photo: Royce Ferguson

8) Inelegant V5
Start on poor holds on the lip and somehow mantle (bellyflop) your way over this to the slab above

9) The Lip ** V1
From good holds in the good crack, tackle the lip to get established on the slab above.

10) The Lip Right ** V4
Start matched in the pocket several feet left of the crack. Work your way over to the crack itself, with difficulty, and then finish up this.

11) Mantle (Right) V5
From matched in the pocket, pull through the lip using holds out right (but not the crack) to gain the slab above.

12) Mantle (Left)
From matched in the pocket, pull through the lip using holds out left to gain the slab above.

Gary Siu getting Crazy (V4). Photo: Royce Ferguson.

The Flight Boulder

A few minutes down the hill and off to the left of the Crazy Boulder is another bloc with a handful of good lines on it.

1) Up in the Air * V1
Climb the short obvious groove in the downhill side of the boulder.

2) Flight Plan *** V7
From two positive crimps on the steep face, launch to small but positive pebbles and side pulls on the lip. Compose yourself on these and make committing moves to get established on the slab above. The arête out left is out of bounds.

3) Flight of Fancy ** V3
The right arête of the eastern wall of the boulder yields to some technical lay backing low down and a slightly more dynamic approach higher up.

4) Flight Path ** V1
The slab on the uphill side of the boulder provides a fun, if a little too short, line.

Dennis Kwok preparing his Flight Plan (V7). Photo: Stuart Millis

The Easy Boulder

Slightly further along the main path to the west of the Crazy Boulder is another large boulder close to the path. This bloc provides a great introduction to bouldering for those relatively new to the sport.

1) Easy Jet ** V0
Climb the slabby left arête of the boulder making use of this and the seam to the right. Can also be climbed from a sit start at the same grade.

2) Eazy-E * V3
From the sloping handhold on the right of the main slab, smear and crimp your way up the blank face, avoiding use of the positive features on either side of the slab.

3) Back to Basics * V0
Climb the right side of the main slab, starting from the sloping shelf and making use of pebbles and the right arête to weave up the wall.

4) Effortless ** VB
Attack the downhill face of the boulder via the line of least resistance, utilising various shelves and grooves to work your way up the wall

5) Starting Out * V1
Climb the groove feature on the right side of the face to a more committing and rounded finale.

6) Inception ** V2
Climb the short slabby wall on the eastern end of the bloc via a series of partially snapped pebbles and small crimps / slopers.

7) Dawes of Perception *** VB
The short slab on the wall facing the footpath provides a nice introduction to slab climbing, and for those all versed in this aspect of climbing, a fun problem to tackle hands-free!.

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