General

Download the latest PDF guide for the crag here 

The crag is formed by tuff columns forming features similar to those seen at classic locations such as Giants Causeway in Ireland, only here the rock has been subjected to a little more in the way of tropical weathering. As such, the rock is mostly solid but has a thin covering of flakey weathered rock that will fall off with use. The top of the crag is very loose and the safest exit is by moving right along the ridge towards the headland. Beware of occasional very large unattached rocks. Helmets are recommended.

Gear is plentiful throughout nearly all routes, small wires and small to medium cams, and as such it is requested that climbers retain a traditional ethic when climbing here.

A full ropes length is needed for the left hand side of the crag. All the routes completed so far have been up obvious crack systems, however plenty of potential remains for harder face and arete routes remains.

The bottom of the crag is located at a wave cut platform which can get covered by the sea if a big swell is running so its best to visit the crag during low tide / periods of generally calm weather.

Approach

The crag is located within an area of rugged coastline to the south of the East Dam of the High Island Reservoir in Sai Kung Country Park.

The best approach route is as follows:

From Sai Kung town take a bus to the country park entrance Pak Tam Chung. From here it is necessary to take a taxi to a roundabout at the end of the East Dam of High Island Reservoir. Walk down the road to reach the dam itself (stopping along the way to read the signboards on the geology of the area) and then follow this to the far end of the sea wall. Cross over the fence at the end of this and climb a short way up the hillside before continuing along the headland on a small path.

Cross a small stream and ascend to the saddle of the hill (Fa Shan). The path splits into three when you reach the headland. Follow the steep path which cuts directly down the pebble beach and carry along the coast, around two headlands (and beneath some other potentially worthwhile crags) until Waterfall Rock is reached.

This approach can be made in all but high tides. However, the bottom of the cliffs are washed by waves if there is a swell running so flat seas are advisable. During higher tides it may be necessary to leave the crag by scrambling up the ridge and hillside above it. This route is rather precarious and involves bushwhacking up hillside with much loose rock so be careful. Approaching by this route is not recommended as it would be extremely treacherous.

Routes

1 – More Fun than Shopping for Shoes ** HVS 5a
At the left end of the wall is a deep ‘chimney’ like feature that where one of the columns has toppling out. Start up the remainder of the column to a small ledge. Launch into the chimney proper above this and follow it to a bolt belay on the ledges at the top.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004

2 – Doppleganger ***  HS 4b
One of the finest traditional routes in Hong Kong, following a striking feature up the largest part of the wall. The second of the deep ‘chinmey’ like features offers a delightful trip up the wall with good gear and more holds than are apparent from below. Bolt belay.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

3 – Broadway ** E1 5a
Start up a crack on the left side of a small pool at the base of the crag. Follow this until it is possible to make a rising rightwards traverse into a shallow corner system rising above a small pedestal. Mixed trad and bolt belay at the top.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

4 – Seamless *** HVS 5a
Possibly the most striking of the crack lines at the crag, forming a perfect straightline from top to bottom. Climb the almost perfectly straight crack in the middle of the wall, which is technical in the lower part and eases towards the top. Mixed bolt and trad belay at the top.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

5 – Tailor Made ** E1 5b
Towards the centre of the wall are three columns that extend the full height of the crag. Follow the crack line between the central and right hand cloumn (I think?).
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

6 – Big Boots *  VS 4b
Start up the slightly shattered looking area of rock to reach the hanging corner above. Follow this to the ledge at half height before continuing up the crack above.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

7 – Clothesline ** Severe
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

8 – Zipper Effect * Severe
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

9 – Suits You Sir * Severe
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

10 – Big Boots Rule * Severe
Follow the final flake / crack at the right end of the crag, before the wall starts to degenerate and become more blocky and ledgey. Trend left towards the top.
F.A. Matt Tranter & Ben George (2004)

Descent: Routes one and two can be descended either by abseiling from the bolts near the top of the crag (carabiners required) or scrambling up the wall above and then down the hillside. All other routes require a short scramble to get back to the base of the crag.