General
The latest additions to the Ma On Shan crag scene from Rocky Lok and Angel Liu comprise a couple of buttresses on the spur between Ma Tai Stream and Mui Tse Lam valley.
Access
Similar to the other Ma On Shan crags and bouldering areas, these sites are best accessed from Tai Shui Hang MTR. From the MTR either:
- Grab a taxi to the end of Mui Tsz Lam Road and then continue along the catchwater access road to double back down the other side of the valley. When reaching the locked gate, skirt round the left of this to descend back to the footpath, pass over the small dam and follow blue railing down some steps to reach Marvel Front Rock. From here continue up the path, over a second dam, turn right and follow a dirt trail for 10 minutes more until you are parallel with Marvel Rock. Veer right again and follow a small dirt trail down to the base of the cliff
- Walk from the MTR to Mui Tsz Lam Road and follow this until just past the WSD building about 1 km down the road. Take the staircase down from the road (keep an eye out for the small red painted triangle symbol on the left edge of the road). Pass over the stream and then follow a steep and quite overgrown dirt trail up the hill to join the path near the base of Marvel Front Rock.
Front Rock
Front Rock is the buttress on the right side of the valley, located directly above the blue railings of the WSD access path. Climbs are described left to right, from the upper part of the crag.
1) King Python *** F7c
The line of the crag. An absolutely mega slab line following the obvious feature.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2025)
2) Dirty Cat F6a+
Chimney up the corner before launching up the slab above to the first lower off.
F.A. Angel Liu (2024)
3) Dirty Cat Extension F7a
An extension of the previous line that takes you to the anchor of King Python via some tenuous slab moves.
F.A. Angel Liu (2024)
4) Angry Bird F6b
F.A. Rocky Lok (2025)
5) Black Mamba F8a
(Closed Project)
6) Wake Up F7a
F.A. Angel Liu (2025)
7) Coffee and Tea F6c+
F.A. Angel Liu (2025)
8) Enter the Secret F6b+
F.A. Rocky Lok (2025)
9) Private Party F7a+
F.A. Angel Liu (2025)
10) Short Party F7a
F.A. Angel Liu (2025)
11) Secret Kitchen F7b
F.A. Rocky Lok (2025)
12) Body Guard F7a+
F.A. Angel Liu (2025)
Marvel Rock
Marvel Rock is the prominent perched block higher up the valley, providing a about 10 routes up to 20 m in length and with grade from F6b up to F8a. The nature of the rock here means the routes can often feel quite a bit harder if not chalked up as many of the holds aren’t that obvious at first glance. i.e. send your mate up first to do all the hard work 😉
1) Spider Girl F6b
F.A. Angel Liu (2024)
2) Ant Man F6b+
F.A. Phoenix Yik (2023)
3) Black Panther F6b
F.A. Angel Liu (2023)
4) Black Widow F7b
F.A. Rocky Lok (2024)
4a) Black Widow II F7c
F.A. Rocky Lok (2024)
5) Thor F7a+
F.A. Rocky Lok (2024)
6) Captain F8a
F.A. Dennis Kwok (2023)
6a) Captain Direct F7b
F.A. Rocky Lok (2024)
7) Iron Man *** F6c+
Technical climbing up the middle of the lower slab leads to a large flake and easier climbing to the ledge. Move left from the ledge and through the roof via a series of small crimps and side pulls until a series of positive flakes take you out left onto and up the arête to finish.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2023)
8) Hulk ** F7a
Start as for the previous route and follow this to the ledge. From here, pull through the roof from left side of the ledge and then continue directly up the wall.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2023)
9) Doctor Strange * F7a+
Sustained technical climbing up the right side of the slab brings you to the ledge. Make brutal crimpy moves to somehow leave the ledge (without use of the stepping stone) and then continue directly up the technical wall above to finish.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2023)
The above line can also be climbed as a more consistent and *** F6c if making use of the stepping stone to reach holds slightly higher up and avoid the brutal and somewhat disproportionally hard move to leave the ledge.
10) Spider Man * F7a+
Climb the lower slab on the right side of the rounded arête to reach a series of inclined veins, which are followed to the ledge. Make difficult moves up the right side of the face above to leave the ledge, before continuing up the wall until pushed slightly right towards the arête and a tricky finishing sequence.
F.A. Angel Liu (2023)
11) Hawkeye F6b+
F.A. Angel Liu (2023)
Original Guides by Rocky Lok
