General

A north facing shaded crag with a good selection of mid-grade routes, but with variable rock quality in parts and a slightly treacherous setting making this a venue for the experienced climber.

Access

Upper Wall: This sector of Cape Collinson is accessed from higher up Cape Collinson Road than the other areas, with the access trail starting behind Cape Collinson Sitting Out Area. This trail leads directly down the hill to an area of more open vegetation. At this point, turn right and contour the hill towards the east until you reach a streamline. Follow the trail down hill from here, weaving around the eastern side of the crag , over a small drop, to reach the base of the wall itself.

Lower Wall: From the base of the right side of the Upper Wall, scramble carefully down the slope to reach some via ferrata rungs that lead down a rock step to the beach. An abseil station is also present for those not comfortable climbing down the rungs.

Routes

Upper Wall

1) Love in Tourettes * F7b
(14 m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. Siu Chong (2022)

2) Bousquet Bants ** F6b
(20 m, 13 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

3) Cape Covid * F6a
(17 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

4) Yah Wobble ** F6a+
(17 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

5) Must Be The Russians * F6c
(14 m, 11 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

6) The Ghost of Covid Past * F6c+
(15 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

7) As You Comply * F6c+
(15 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

8) Behind Ocean Lines ** F7a+
(15 m, 11 Bolts)
F.A. Siu Chong (2022)

9) On / Off / On / Off * F6c+
(16 m, 11 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

10) Drilling Bad * F6c
(13 m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2022)

11) The Driller who came in from the Cold ** F7a+
(20 m, 15 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

12) Gulag Archipelago *** F7a+
(21 m, 14 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

13) Rage and Ridicule * F6c+
(13 m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

14) Violence of Action * F7b
(19 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2022)

15) Block Work * F6a
(15 m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2022)

Lower Wall

The Lower Wall has a small number of meandering routes that weave their way back up to the Upper Wall from the tidal bouldery beach on the shoreline.

1) Pan Pan ** F6c
1. F6c (18 m, 10 Bolts)
2. F6c (30 m, 15 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2022)

2) Oxygen Levels Low F6c+
(13 m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. Siu Chong (2022)

3) Winter of Discontent * F6c
(13 m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden

4) Vanishing Angle * F6b
1. F6a+ (16 m, 9 Bolts)
2. F6b (24 m, 14 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2022)