The Village Boulders
The first set of boulders, closest to Shek O Village, has it all from highballs, pleasant walls and a nice small ‘cellar’ like wall. The only real down side is the small size of the area and the amount of litter that seems to get washed up and left by day trippers. From the end of the road carry straight on down the staircase and immediately follow a small dirt path which contours right around the small hill. It is also possible to contour the coast line to the boulders from Shek O Beach.
The Village Area includes several distinct collections of boulders, including:
The Cube Circuit: The main area of bouldering including the Cube and The Cellar
Training Wall: The large wall located just beneath The Cube Circuit
The Lower Blocs: The two blocs located further along the path towards Tai Tau Chau
The Fat Boy Bloc: The large bloc located half way along the coastline between the headland and Shek O Beach.
The short corner forms more of a scramble than a boulder problem.
Climb the centre of the small wall on good holds.
The short juggy corner
(4) V1 *
Good holds lead up the deep corner to a worrying finale over the small roof.
(5) V3 * Braveheart
The juggy arete leads to a small roof. Move through this and up the hanging groove with trepidation.
(6) V0 *
The largest of the corners is followed on good flakey holds.
(7) V1 *** S Crack
Follow the thin crack line to the right of the corner.
The short thin corner immediately left of the vertical rubble.
The short wall next to the descent route is a little bit grainy and loose in places but still provides a few pleasant problems around V0 – VB.
(1) V3 ** The Sythe (sds)
From good holds on the cresent shaped flake slap to the top of the block.
(2) V0 * On the Edge
The short right side of the face gives a couple of fun moves.
A bit of a one move wonder from the good holds at chest height. Crouching to start increases the grade but not much of the quality.
(2) V2 ** (sds)
From side pulls on the flake reach up and through the sloping breaks to a thin mantleshelf finish.
(1) V3 **
Traverse the rounded break at half height to finish up the right hand arete.
(2) V2 **
From the slopey break at half height reach up to a higher slopey break and the top.
(3) V1 **
The flake in the centre of the wall.
(4) V2 *
Start beneath an undercut pocket at a good sidepull pocket. Follow good crimps up the steep face to the top.
(5) V1 **
Start as for Problem 4 but move right and climb the hanging arete.
(6) V2 ** (sds)
Start at a good pocket and move up to sloping holds in the horizontal break. Finish direct.