General

A small collection of problems located either side of this popular beach in northern Lamma. Recent development by Caius Man, Lachlan Tran and friends, who kindly provided all the info for this page.

Unlikely to be a significant enough set of blocs to warrant a special trip to Lamma just for these, but a great option if you live there or are visiting the area/beach anyway.

Access

The Blocs are accessed from the Tung Shue Wan Ferry Pier in Northern Lamma. From the pier, follow the main footpath through Yung Shue Wan Village (the crowds of tourists give a pretty good indication which path this is), out the back of the village and all the way to Hung Shing Yeh Beach (about 20 mins).

The Blocs themselves are located on the coastline just west (Drugs Bloc) and east (Pain Bloc) of the main beach.

Problems

Drugs Bloc

1) Drugs You Should Try It (Direct) V4
Stand start using the positive undercling and smears so you can reach up towards the main feature of the bloc, a positive jug. The crack on the block can be used as a foothold to get a nasty pinch, the crux of the route. After bumping to the crimp above the pinch, the rest of the climb is a cruise up to the top out.

1a) Drugs You Should Try It (Indirect) V2
As above but making use of the ledge on the left side of the boulder.

2) Drugs You Should Try It (Extension) V5
Start further to the left of the original problem, with hands in a slopey crack and small jug. Resist using the undercling and go straight for the crack above instead. A side pull on the right face of the bloc can be used to balance before going for the main jug. The rest of the route follows the direct.

The problems were named with reference to this song, not as a recommendation. HongKongClimbing.com in no way condones the use of drugs, but neither do we condemn it either 😉 The problems are on Lamma after all…

Pain Bloc

3) No Pain, No Gain (Direct) V6
Start matched on the two sharp pockets. Reach up to the jug above and get your feet out on the ledge below.  From here move up to a small undercling on the left of the sloper before dynamically moving to a positive crimp and top out. (There are a set of staircase shaped rocks at the back of the bloc to climb down)

4) Crack Like Jeff’s Ankle (sds) V2
Sit start at the bottom of the crack. Follow the crack the whole way up the boulder using both sides of the bloc