General
The showcase of the Mt Parker area is undoubtedly the two large buttresses located beneath the Air Traffic Control / Observatory domes on the summit of the hillside.
The crags offer a fine array of soaring aretes, blank walls as well as cracks and corners for the climber to explore. Although the access hike is one of the longest in Hong Kong, the quality of the climbing, relative solitude and panoramic vistas more than make up for the effort required.
A full PDF guide to the Mount Parker Area can be downloaded here
Access
To paraphrase the Beatles, the most straightforward approach is to follow the long and winding road of Mount Parker Road from its start in Quarry Bay all the way to the Radio Domes on the summit of Mount Parker itself. When reaching the split in the road just beneath the summit domes, follow the righthand branch to the end of the small man-made slope with a stone facing, where a small dirt trail leads you on to the slope crest and then diagonally down and leftwards on to hillside. When reaching some small buttresses on the left, keep an eye open for a narrow corridor between these and some large boulders, which leads to the base of the upper buttress. Access to the lower buttress is gained by following the path further down and around the hillside on from this corridor.
Climbing at Mount Parker requires a 5 km trek up Mount Parker Road with a gain of almost 500 m in elevation. A longer approach than (nearly?) any other sport crag in Hong Kong. That said, Mount Parker Road is a paved, well-graded trail that delivers you efficiently to the summit. So, while you should be tuned up physically if you want to enjoy climbing up here, it’s not as killer as the distance-elevation numbers suggest. A reasonably fit party should allow a solid hour to get to the crag.
Routes
Upper Buttress
(1) Happy Boulevard II *** F4
Much easier version of an eponymous line put up by the same duo in Yunnan nearly 20 years ago. After a somewhat crimpy start, head straight up center of low-angle face on far left.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2019)
(2) Mount Parker Arête *** F5
Destined to become an absolute classic. Starts on right side of the arete and climb up the large block to reach the break and good holds leading out to the arete proper. Follow this, predominantly on its left slabby side, with sheer delight all the way to the ledge at the top of the buttress.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
(3) Iron Cross ** F6c
Starts as for Mt Parker Arete but instead of moving left to the arete, continue direct up the groove to the right of the arete to reach a small roof (much harder for the short). Launch through this to get established on the wall above, from where a long reach gains the flake line. Continue directly up from this to reach the lower off two-thirds of the way up the arete. The tall might find the crux soft for the grade whilst the short will find it desperate, such is life…
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
(4) Decisive Action *** F7b
The indirect start to The Procrastinator provides a technical and challenging line. Boulder up the arete in the middle of the wall to reach a jug on The Procrastinator. From here break left along the lip of the roof to good side pulls. Compose yourself before launching up the wall above the small roof to reach a small flake. Make one last big move up to join the top of the flake system on The Procrastinator, which is then followed up the wall above to the anchors.
F.A. Stuart Millis, Derek Smith (2019)
Note: Vigilant belaying required for boulder problem start as the route climbs slightly different to what was envisaged when it was bolted (e.g. more up the arete than the groove). The fall is still safe, but a little on the ‘ground sweeping’ side…
(5) The Procrastinator *** F6c
Start at the groove in the center of the face and bridge up this until it is possible to swing out left. From here, powerful moves lead up the flake system and on to the headwall above. Follow the flakes until it is possible to launch on to the featured wall above, which is followed to a lower off near the top of the arete.
F.A. Stuart Millis, Joost Swetter (2019)
Stuart Millis on the first ascent of The Procrastinator (F6c), so called because it took him >10-years to actually get up to the crag after first spotting them… Photo: Bob Moseley
(6) Soft n Fluffy *** F7a+
The right side of the wall provides a sustained and technical outing up the impressive face. Start up the groove and rib on the right side of the wall. From the top of these make difficult and insecure moves to gain the small ledges above. Take a deep breath before committing to the technical wall above via a series of small pockets, crimps and pebbles.
F.A. Joost Swetter, Stuart Millis (2019)
The not particularly Soft n Fluffy (F7b) Joost Swetter making the first ascent of that route. Photo: Renée Mullen
(7) Hard n Crunchy F6b+
The obvious corner system on the right side of the main buttress leads to a thin rising leftwards traverse beneath the headwall. Getting a little bit harder with each ascent as things gradually ‘crunch’ their way off the headwall traverse section…
F.A. Annemiek van Bemmel, Joost Swetter (2019)
(8) Palm Beach * F5
Climb the broken rib to the right of the main corner, taking care to avoid the pesky palm growing on one of the ledges.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
(9) Spangle F4
Climb the detached tower on the right side of the crag. The ledge at the top of this provides a great photo spot for the routes on the main wall.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2019)
Lower Buttress
1) Pebble Arete F4
The leftmost arete of the crag, moving left at the top.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2018)
2) Tuff Stuff F6a
Start right of crack, cross over half way up and continue to anchor
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2018)
3) Flower Power F5
A short, steep climb in center of face
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2018)
4) Goosebumps F4
A balancy move to the first bolt is followed by steep and juggy moves up the lower face. A long easy ramp then leads up to the summit of the upper crag.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2018)
5) Merlin’s Game F5
The right edge of the wall, starting in the chimney before stepping left onto the wall proper. The presence of Merlin the dog provided the wizardry for the route development and first ascent..
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2019)
6) Stemming Out Loud ** F6a
Stem up the chimney until its is no longer feasible, then move onto the wall to the right to finish.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2019)
7) Triple Treat ** F6a+
Begin at the bottom of The Corridor. Layback the crack to reach the ramp above, which is followed to finish up the crimpy headwall.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
8) Tough Tuff ** F6b+
Start on detached blocks on the left of the prominent overhang and gain the face above. Muscle up the lower wall and skirt the left edge of the roof. Head up easier terrain, around right corner of upper roof to anchors.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
9) One Hike More *** F7a
Start on the same block and crack as Tough Tuff, but climb the crack on its right side via laybacks, finger locks in the crack and crimps out right. Follow the crack until it is possible to reach up and right to gain the series of hanging flakes in the overhanging wall above, Power your way across these to reach a good jug, from where a committing sequence takes you over the arete and lip above. Pull around this before continuing up the easier angled arete to reach the lower off.
F.A. Joost Swetter, Annemiek van Bemmel (2019)
10) One Giant Step ** F6c
Start in the chimney as for the Y-Climbs but clip the bolts to the left of this. Once level with the second bolt, break out left to get established on the slightly overhung face. From here, continue trending left and up across the highly featured face above roof to gain the overhanging flake and easier ground above.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
Bob Moseley on the first ascent of One Giant Step (F6c) Photo: Stuart Millis
11) Y-Climb Left? * F5
Climb the obvious chimney, which is followed for three bolts above the point where the crack narrows before breaking out left in the upper part to get established on the wall. Follow this, skirting around the bulge, to reach the top.
F.A. Bob Moseley, Renée Mullen (2019)
12) Y-Climb Right? ** F5
Climb the obvious crack / chimney, primarily utilizing the arete on the right side of the crack to allow laybacking up the edge of the steep ‘Phoenix’ wall.
F.A. Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley (2019)
13) Resurrection *** F7c+
The lower start to Phoenix (see orange line on topo) constitutes a desperate and technical trip up pockets, crimps and side pulls before joining the Phoenix for the top one-third of the wall, just after the fourth bolt.
FA: Stuart Millis (2020)
14) Phoenix *** F7b+
The blank wall provides a thin technical test piece. Start at the obvious jug on the arete/crack. From here swing left on to the wall and weave a devious line up this following an assortment of small crimps, flakes and pockets.
F.A. Stuart Millis, Joost Swetter (2019)
