Tung Lung Bouldering

General

More renowned for its sport climbing, Tung Lung is unlikely to ever become a focal point or hub for bouldering. However, the island does include several spots and opportunities for pebble wrestlers to get their fix too with the base of Tech Wall including several testing traverses and a couple of classic ‘up’ problems and Pirates Bay (if dry and free of sea trash) offering some steep gym-style problems too.

Access

All areas are accessed from the second ferry pier (see main Tung Lung pages for details). From the pier, continue along the path and either

i) break off at the beach and contour this (scrambling over some rocks) to reach the Cave;

ii) continue to (and then through) the Holiday Store and take the path out the back of this, breaking off right to scramble down a dirt trail to the pebble beach to reach Pirates Bay (Note: This area gets cut off from the beach at high tide); or

iii) continue further along the path to the campsite before scrambling around the right side of the headland to reach Tech Wall.

Blocs

The Cave

The small cave at the northeast end of the beach by the ferry pier looks to have some potential for bouldering and also has one bolted route up it. As far as we know, nothing significant has been tried/established in this area yet though.

The Pirates Bay

Located in the small bay behind The Holiday Store is a small cave offering gym style climbing. Get to the Holiday Store from the ferry pier and then walk through this (stopping for coffee and dumplings to keep them in business please – these guys have been super friendly to the climbing community for decades), past the toilets and along the path out the back of the store. Shortly after the store break off right and follow the steep trail down to the pebble beach. Traverse the left side of this (only possible either side of high tide) to reach the cave.

1) Il Pirata (sds) ** V6
Start at an undercut/pinch block with left and good slot with right. Make powerful modes up from these using a combination of side pulls out left and gastons out right to eventually finish matched on a flat ledge above the lip of the roof.

2) Across the Seven Seas (sds) ** V6
Start as for Il Pirata and make a series of extremely powerful moves diagonally right across the wall to join Torrent Hound just beneath the lip of the cave. Finish as for Torrent Hound.

3) Torrent Hound (sds) ** V3
Sit start at a side pull and small crimp directly beneath a positive jug. Pull up from these to the jug before trusting holds in the slopey shelf just beneath the lip to let you gain a sloping ledge on the right side of the small groove. From here reach right to finish in the letter box slot at the top of The Pirate Bay

4) The Pirate Bay (sds) *** V2
Sit start at the large slopey ledge at the deepest point of the cave. From here follow a line of positive holds out through the roof to eventually gain the large letter box slot above the lip. Drop off from this.

5) Pirate Bay Extension (sds) *** V3
A long right to left extension traverse in to The Pirate Bay, starting from a positive slot near the right end of the roof.

6) The Black Corsair (sds) ** V7
Starting form the same slot as Pirate Bay Ext, this time tackle the stepped roof directly above via a tricky sequence of crimps and side pulls. Unlike most other lines, don’t stop at the lip but continue up the wall above to gain positive holds in the high break above. Drop off from here.

7) Jack Sparrow (sds) *** V2
Sit start using a low undercut block with the left and high crimp with the right. From these, work your way right along the sloping shelf to a good jug. Launch up and right from this (be careful of the loose block at the lip) and then reach left to finish matched on the sloping shelf.

Technical Wall

Hong Kong’s premiere sport climbing crag also has a limited amount of fun and games to offer the pebble wrestler too, mostly in the form of traverses along the base of the crag but with a few short ‘up’ problems in the area beneath Wonderful Souvenir too.

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