General

Salong Crag displays similar climbing to that of the well-known Beacon Hill Crag. It is located in Tai Lam Country Park in the Western New Territories thereby providing a climbing option for people who live in the New Territories. The area consists of two large granite outcrops which are named “Sa” and “Long” boulder, hence the name “Salong” (also it is the names of developer’s son and daughter).

There is a mountain stream (bedrock channel), named Kam Sha Stream (金沙坑), which flows from north to south through Kau Keng Shan, entering a catchwater of Tai Lam Chung Reservoir. Most of the rocks here are granites which is solidified from magmas that were intruded near a plate boundary.

In summer time, just being there would be very hot because the crag faces south and there is not much shade when you climb. Fortunately, climbers can have a cool refreshment and probably swim in swallow pool in Kam Sha Stream (20 meters up the crag)

Most of the routes in Salong Crag were originally climbed using traditional protection by the developers and friends. However, now, routes have been equipped with expansion-type bolts and anchors. Top-ropes can be easily arranged by scrambling up from a path to the anchor for Sa Rock, except for Long Rock. Sport routes range from French grade 5 to 8a/b (?).

Thanks to Ray Lee for all the crag info / images etc. and the great PDF guide here

Access

The closest point to start with is Gold Coast shopping center, find your own way and start from there. If you walk from Gold Coast, it takes about 1-1.5 hours, going uphill, depends on how fast you walk. Getting there requires some map reading skills, if you are not sure, go with a friend who went there before or bring your own map.

Taxi: Ask the driver to drop you at Lou Tsing Shan Tusen (village), then follow the trails from here up to the Maclehose Trail.

Bus/mini bus: From Tuen Mun: Take Minibus 43/43S, direction So Kwun Wat. Get off at Lou Tsing Shan (ask the driver). If you come from Kowloon side, get off at Gold Coast (find you own buses on google). Walk to Lou Tsing Shan village, from where a hiking path behind will lead you to Maclehose Trail.

Drive: You can save a lot of time by driving! Simply follow the road to the parking spot indicated just before the S-shape turn to Maclehose Trail. Parking place could be full on weekend though, you may have to park somewhere e.

Once on the Maclehose Trail, walk east Walk towards the drainage line marked ‘M190’. Continue past this for another 5 minutes to a major stream (Kam Sha Stream). Boulder hop your way up this for about 10 minutes until it is possible to break up the hillside to the crag itself. It is also possible to approach the crag form the top by accessing the ridgeline from the slopes above the catchwater (see map).

Routes

Sa Rock: Routes are described right to left starting on the right arete of the main face (facing the stream)

(1) Slightly diverted *** F6b
Start on a big platform, you may find difficult to work your feet up. Then climb through easy slab and move to the left. A good sloping hand hold on the right side.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(2) Fast Train to Heaven 一步登天 ** F6b+
Follow the obvious crack line on the slab and power your way up to the second bolt.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(3) Project F8a’ish?

(4) All Roads Lead to the Top 左右逢緣 *** F6b+
A classic trad-route, subsequently retro-bolted so ore people would climb it.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(5) Break through 石破天驚 *** F7a
Start at the big hand hold and then follow the obvious crack before making a traverse right at mid-height to get around the roof. This leads to an easy slab above.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(6) Mantle * F7a
Start on a small boulder, and share the same anchor of Open up your shoulder.
F.A. Sam Yu (200?)

(7) Open Up Your Shoulder ** F7b+
Start on a small boulder, try to avoid using the slab on the right and climb mainly on the slab to your left.
F.A. 曹磊峰 (2012)

(8) Try Your Breast 胸襟廣闊 ** F6b
Climb to the big sloppy open hand hold and place your feet precisely on tiny crystal hold, few crimps and cut at the mid-way.
F.A. Ray Lee (2012)

(9) Direct Access * F6a
Start with some bad hand holds and work your way through, until you reach a big sloper hold.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(10) Crystal Ball the Dog ** F6b
Climb the obvious ceiling and powerful crux at the top.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

Long Rock:

(1) Unseparated 難分難解 *** F7a
Best route of the crag. Climbing directly at the corner at the base, after reaching a small platform, battle through small crimps and long reaching holds (using the right hand side column will significantly downgrade the route to 6a). Commit yourself to the last finishing open hand sloper and finish.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)

(2) Project F7b+’ish

(3) Open Project (Fly or die 一鳴驚人) ** F8a+’ish
Use a clip stick to pre-clip the first two bolts and protect the lower moves.  This project offers some of the smallest crimps you’ll find at the crag…

(4) Brainstorm *** F6b
Start by scramble up the low angle slab, climb the rather powerful over-hanging wall. Finish it by using the tiny, side-pull holds after the 5th bolt.
F.A. Tsang Shun Man (200?)