For the real adventurer out there, Wang Chau offers a couple of existing traditional climbs on its southeast corner, and a whole lot of potential for more of these… For some insight into the first climbing exploration of the island in the late-1970’s, be sure to check out this blog post from Dennis Hodgson here.
Access to Wang Chau will require the procurement of a private boat to take you there and back as there is no fixed ferry service. This is best arranged from one of the many boat operators in Sai Kung town.
All climbing on the island (so far) is located in Styx Zawn on the southeast coast. This can be reached by either landing from the boat to the wide platform at the base of the cliff (provided you have a good boat captain), or more easily by landing on the western end of the island directly opposite Town Island. If choosing the latter, you then need to hike to the southeast end to reach Styx Zawn.
Styx Zawn can be easily identified from the sea by its large, recessed slab surmounted by overhangs. To its left is an even larger slab (Main Slab), which is split by a grassy terrace at two-thirds height (The Terrace). This terrace is a convenient way of returning to the base of the cliff following a climb. To the right of platform at its base is a raised, projecting ledge called the Pulpit. The first two routes start from this:
1) Jacob’s Ladder – Severe
Pitch 1 32m: A rising leftwards traverse, starting form the Pulpit, leads to a stance in the corner.
Pitch 1 (Variation): Start from the platform, beneath the right hand end of the overhangs. Climb the yellow corner to the overhang before traversing right to gain the corner chimney of the original line.
Pitch 2 40m: Continue up the corner to a ledge on the left. Make an awkward move left again to gain the edge of the main slab. Follow the edge to a ledge and belay.
Pitch 3 12m: Move up to the terrace and climb the broken pillar to the top.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1976)
2) Rigor Mortis *** E1 5b
A fine, exposed and technical route. See here for details of the first ascent.
Pitch 1 (5b) 33m: Move up from the Pulpit and onto the slab, which is climbed by weaving left and right up its right hand side to reach the corner. Follow the corner to the overhang and then step left (crux). Make a rising traverse beneath a second overhang to another corner, which is then followed to a good ledge on the right. Climb the easy wall above to a stance of the terrace and piton belay.
Pitch 2 (4b) 17m: Climb the wall above over detached blocks to reach broken ground and a scramble to the top of the cliff.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1976)