Access

The bouldering areas on Tai Mo Shan are all accessed from Tai Mo Shan Road, which in itself is accessed from Route Twisk. For those approaching on public transport,  your best bet is to take the MTR to Tsuen Wan or Tsuen Wan West Stations. From either of these you can then take the #51 Lui Kung Tin Tsuen bus to Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre. From here you’ll have to hike up Tai Mo Shan Road a fair way to reach the bouldering areas themselves. A better option is to just grab a taxi from the MTR station to avoid (or at least cut down) the amount of hiking needed.

Gateside Boulders

The Gateside Boulders is the collection of large blocs located predominantly beneath the road in the area just beyond the gate blocking access to the upper portion of the road. Sadly it sounded like they have become quite overgrown in recent years.

The Witness

1) Witness the Sickness *** V3
A very bold highball problem up the prominent arête of the block, indeed a grade of E3 5c might be more appropriate. Big, bad and bold, but with really nice climbing (when clean). Currently the only line on the block, although some potential for lines through the overhang to the left do appear to exist for those willing to deforest the area.

The Judge & Jury Blocs

These are the smaller and more amendable blocks on the uphill, right side of The Witness and slightly lower down the hill.

2) The Judge *** V6/7
Another test piece from the master himself, Rocky Lok. Start matched on slopers on the left arête of the boulder just up and right of the Witness Bloc. Slap your way right along the lip until it is possible to round this and get established on the slab above, which is followed with ease to the top of the boulder.

3) Jury Duty *** V4
Climb the left arête of the overhanging face of the boulder located just down the hill from the Witness Bloc, rocking on to the left hand slab to finish once you reach the summit of the bloc. A great exercise in arête climbing.