Access

The bouldering areas on Tai Mo Shan are all accessed from Tai Mo Shan Road, which in itself is accessed from Route Twisk. For those approaching on public transport,  your best bet is to take the MTR to Tsuen Wan or Tsuen Wan West Stations. From either of these you can then take the #51 Lui Kung Tin Tsuen bus to Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre. From here you’ll have to hike up Tai Mo Shan Road a fair way to reach the bouldering areas themselves. A better option is to just grab a taxi from the MTR station to avoid (or at least cut down) the amount of hiking needed.

Gateside Boulders

The Gateside Boulders is the collection of large blocs located predominantly beneath the road in the area just beyond the gate blocking access to the upper portion of the road. Sadly it sounded like they have become quite overgrown in recent years.

The Witness

1) Witness the Sickness *** V2
A very bold highball problem up the prominent arête of the block. Big, bad and bold, but with really nice climbing. currently the only line on the block.

The Judge

This is the smaller and more amendable block on the uphill, right side of The Witness.

1) The Judge *** V6/7
Another test piece from the master himself, Rocky Lok. Start matched on low holds on the bulge on the bottom left of the face. From these, difficult moves up and right eventually lead to a big juggy pocket and easier top out.