General
Shum Wan beach is a regular nesting site for green turtles and is closed to the public between 1st April and 31st October. Illegal entry is liable to a $50,000 fine.
See here for the excellent mini-guide prepared by Tim Somerset.
Access
It’s possible to approach both from Mo Tat Wan and So Kwu Wan piers. The hike from So Kwu Wan (via Lamma Boulders) is steeper but shorter, unless you follow the coastal path via Mo Tat Wan that is…
from Sok Kwu Wan
Turning right from the pier, head through the series of restaurants to the Tin Hau Temple. From there, take the stairs heading up the hill and follow the road to the ridgeline. Do not take the turn-off for the pagoda, instead start downhill until you reach an empty-looking village with a junction with a road for Shek Pai Wan and one for Shum Wan. Turn right to Shum Wan (the path with a red emergency call box on it) and continue for 5-10 minutes to arrive at the beach.
Alternatively, turn left off the ferry pier and follow the coastal path towards Mo Tat Wan and then use the description below for guidance from the village onwards.
via Mo Tat Wan
From the Mo Tat Wan Ferry pier, follow the path along the beach to The Bay Restaurant where the path breaks left to a set of stairs. From here, the path takes you through Mo Tat Wan New Village, and after 30 minutes, Yeung Shue Ha Village and Shek Pai Wan. Follow the path past the beach, and as it heads inland again, there will be a junction with a sign for Sok Kwu Wan. Take the opposite path (the one with a red emergency call box on it) and continue for 5-10 minutes to arrive at Sham Wan.
Blocs
East Shore Blocs
These boulders are a collection of tall(ish) boulders along the approach to the main crag. The rock is mostly good quality except on Freak Solo (V4). At low tide, the landings are good but are underwater at high tide, so time your arrival carefully.
The path through the trees behind Turtles All the Way down boulder is the high-tide entry and exit.
1) Turtles all the Way Down V1
An easy highball following a broken line of jugs to the top.
2) Happy Together V1
Follow a thin crack to a low top-out.
3) Freak Solo * V4
Using the arête to start, make moves through a set of flaky pockets to reach crimps in a pair of red stains on the rock. Tenuous moves take you to an easy(ish) mantle top-out.
4) Yertle My Turtle * V2
An arête climb that starts on slopers, and moves along a thin crack to the top.
5) Just Undo It * V1
The easiest line up the bloc, and the easiest way down. Start on good footholds and make long moves to reach an obvious jug. The rest is easy.
6) Ripped Genes (sds) ** V5
Sit down start by the bulge on the left. Clap up the buldge to a crux move to a jug (shorter climbers may need a jump). The top out is hard and the fall can be dangerous, good spotters and at least 2 pads recommended.
East Shore Crag
1) Bootleg Parabola *** F7a+
Classic line of the crag. Start in the roof and make powerful moves through juicy jugs along the lip to the first crux. Finesse your way through the lip to a layback jug and a good rest. Climb through a short slab to a rest ledge and float up the final slab crux. For the full F7a+ experience, avoid extending the anchor. Can also be done on gear! (we think)
F.A. Tim Somerset (2021)
2) Love Nature, Kill Trees ** E1 5c
Best trad line in the area and can be done differently depending on safety. Pure trad lines can be done starting deep in the roof crack, or on the boulder next to the face under the roof and reaching over for an initial piece placement. Alternatively, you can start on the same face as Bootleg Parabola using the bolt as your first and only fixed protection. Walk-off is easy.
F. A. James Leifer (2021)
3) Hug My Stomata ** HVS 5a
A fine crack line perfect to practice gear placement on. All placing positions are solid, and the crack takes gear fantastically. Beware of jamming your rope when lowering. Walk-off is easy.
F. A. James Leifer
Strawberry Dynamite Project
This is the mega off-width crack line to the left of Bootleg Parabola, which can either be bouldered along its length or climbed as a trad climb to the top of the crag.
FA: Lau Koon Hing?
There are multiple boulders around the crag worth trying that haven’t been sent yet. In particular, the hanging boulder with the landing on a pedestal and the insane roof next to the start of Bootleg Parabola.
West Shore Blocs
This collection of boulders along the shoreline gives a varied experience of slab and steep,
crimpy and slopey climbs. There is a large collection of both easier routes from V0 to V5, and
numerous unclimbed open projects.
This area hasn’t been fully explored yet. It was first established by Caius Man and Lachlan Tan, who put up most the routes here. Here are some of the best routes and projects, all on the farthest end of the beach.
12) V5**
One of the best lines of the area. The slopers look hopeless at first, but slowly work your way through them for a juicy top out. For full value, start on the two adjacent pocket halfway up the wall (i.e. don’t reach up as high as you can). This is a tidal bloc so time your arrival carefully. Unfortunately, even wavier days means the footholds can be washed out.
13) V6** (sds)
Sit down start to the V5. Start on the arête on the left, swish up to the slopers and continue as for the V5.
14) Open Project (sds)
The starting jugs are deceptive as the lip lowly turns into blank slopers to top out on.
(15) V3*
Starting with the under-cling, balance up the face before dancing your feet out right to take yourself towards the easy top out.
(16) Open Project
Start as for the V3 but stay left instead. Pull and step on some pseudo-holds and top out. Likely only V4.