Colins Boulders

General

This small concentration of boulders has by far the highest number of hard problems at Tsuen Wan, and possibly Hong Kong. Nearly all of them are of exceptional quality too.

Colins Boulders (PDF Download)

Approach

The easiest approach is to follow the approach to Lin Fa Shan to the abandoned school and, instead of turning left to Lin Fa Shan, continue straight past the buildings. Just beyond the small outhouse and at the bottom of the hill, a small dirt track breaks off left from the main dirt path and leads to the Split Boulder. It is also possible to follow the main dirt path up the small hill and, when near the crest of the hill, contour to the left a short way above a large boulder with an impressive face on the downhill side, before descending down the hill to the boulders. This approach however was very overgrown in 2019.  It’s also possible, and slightly shorter, to approach via Radar Rocks.

Routes

The Bamboo Boulder

1) Jagged Edge (sds) * V3
Start in the slanting crack low on the wall and climb directly above this via a series of jagged pockets.

2) Mitchless Left ** V7
Start directly beneath a large pocket. Using an assortment of small crimps, gain the large pocket before using pebbles above this to enable a long throw up and left for the lip.

3) Mitchless ** V6
Start directly beneath two large pockets high on the wall. Using an assortment of small crimps and pockets, gain the large pockets before exiting slightly right to finish.

4) Project
To the right of Mitchless is a small (but painful) pocket and good side pull. From these somehow gain the pockets directly above and high on the wall. 

5) Mango Power ** V5
From a good side pull and three finger pocket, move right to another good side pull. From here either crimp the hell out of the small pocket or continue dynamically to the top. A sit start also looks possible.

6) Sleeping Snakes * V2
Follow the left trending seam to a good flake at the top of the wall.

7) Hueco Wall (sds) V2
Follow the line of large pockets to a thin finish above.

The Split Boulder

1) Baby Shark * V5
The right side of the arete starting from the painful pocket and pebble and avoiding the crack around the corner which reduces the grade to V3.

2) Jaws (sds) ** V6
The right side of the arete from a sit start, avoiding the crack around the corner.

3) Seamless *** V9
Small crimps lead to a sloping jug in the middle of the wall and an exceptionally thin finish directly above this. Finishing slightly out left is an easier variant nicknamed ‘Shameless’ due to the lack of ethics involved with avoiding the real challenge. This reduces the grade to about V8 and the kudos of the climber to about zero.

4) Seamless (sds) *** V11
The sit start to Seamless.

5) Trainspotting (sds) *** V6
The right arete of the lefthand face (not using the right boulder) provides a technically challenging line.

6) Underworld (sds) * V4
The left arete of the right boulder (not using the left boulder) provides a fun start and a challenging finish.

7) Pulp Fiction ** V7
From chest high crimps on the left side of the wall, work your way slightly right first to the good pebble and then pocket in the centre of the face, before finishing directly above this.

8) Raging Bull *** V7/8
Start on a positive right gaston and the pebble (may need padding out to reach these as there’s a small hole beneath the problem creating a shitty uneven landing). Gaining the good side pulls on the lip abive is somewhat tricky, using them to top out is equally as hard! The pocket out left is way off route.

9) Black Stallion (sds) * V9
A sit start directly below Raging Bull leads you to the start holds of that climb, from which a long reach out left brings the pocket on Pulp Fiction and the finish of that.

10) Raging Bull (sds) ** V9
The fiendishly hard sit start into the starting holds of Raging Bull, before finishing as per the original line.

11) Moulin Rouge (sds) * V2
Start at a good side pull (sitting) on the right arete of the boulder. A few short pulls bring jugs, followed by a thin top out.

Split Backside

1) Driftwood * V0
Start in the crack on the arete and move left in to the horizontal break. Follow the diagonal crack from this.

2) Middle Earth ** V2
Thin moves up the middle of the wall leads to a large horizontal breaks and better holds.

3) Dark Path ** VB
The arête left of the large chimney.

4) Great Flake * VB
The large curving flake line.

5) Pebble Wall V0
The slabby blunt right arete of the wall provides a tenuous line on friable pebbles and pockets.

7) Moss Wall * V0
Follow the mossy flakes up the centre of the slabby wall.

8) Edge of Insanity * V2
Start on good side pulls at the right edge of the steep wall. Pull up to good pockets and rock right onto the slab. Follow this to the top.

Above Sparkies Roof

(1) VB – 4b Start just right of the big drop and follow the slabby wall above.

(2) VB – 4a The centre of the wall, following a vague line of pockets and breaks.

(3) V3 * (sds) From a sit start on the sloping rock ledge, reach up to pebbles and pockets and an easier finish.

(4) V5 ** (sds) Start at the sloping shelf and reach into the crack above. Continue directly above this to finish.

(5) V4 * (sds) Start in the middle of the sloping shelf and, using the left arete, reach to the horizontal break. Finish directly above this.

(6) V3 ** (sds) From the right side of the sloping ledge, reach right before moving up to the horizontal break. Finish slightly right.

(7) V1 Start as for Problem 6 but continue right along the good flake to a rounded finish.

Sparkies Roof

1) Taipan (sds) *** V7
The righthand lip of the roof, from a sit start (not a crouch start) at one good pocket low down and a small pocket just above the lip. Follow crimps and pockets near the lip until it is possible to gain a good crimp on the face above the roof itself. From here a powerful lunge leads to a jug and the top.

2) Gai Jin (sds) *** V8
From a sit start at an undercut pocket follow the leftward trending break until it is possible to move out and right through the roof above.

3) Columbus (sds) * V9
Start on the layaways as for Sparkies Roof but make desperate moves directly out and right through the roof to join the rail on Gaijin about half way along. Finish up this.

4) Sparkies amazing Technicolour Dream Roof (sds) ***
Start on layaways at the back of the roof. Follow a line of holds out left to a break. Move back right before using small holds on the lip to make a tenuous move right to a good jug. Finish up the wall above. THE classic line of the area and a right of passage.

5) Stuart’s Unimpressive Monochrome Nightmare Roof (sds) ** V5
Follow Sparkies Roof to the first good break. Finish directly through the roofs above.

6) Mojo Rising (sds) * V5
The short blunt rib has a powerful start and a slightly intimidating finish.

The Wave

1) Haunted House ** V3
Start at good crimps on a shield shaped flake. From these move up and right to a good sidepull in the crack. Launch back out left to sidepulls and finish direct. A harder low start from a crimp and mono at chest height is also possible.

2) Haunted Low * V6
An extension to Haunted House starting from two miserable little mono’s at chest height. Bring those tendons of steel to try this one…

3) Ghost Train * V7
In the centre of the wall is a rounded pocket and numerous small crimps. Choose which combination of these works best for you and make a hard move up to a deep pocket. Powerful moves left from this bring the crack, which is followed to the top.

3) Mega Tsunami *** V10
Start as for Ghost Train but continue directly up the wall above the deep pocket on tiny crimps to an un-nerving finish. An awesome, and desperate, climb.

4) The Alchemist ** V3
Climb the slabby side of the corner at the right side of the face. The crux is low down but the upper slab is still engaging enough to give food for though.

4a) The Flying Russian *** V4
Start on the positive crimps on the arete. Move up of these to a reasonable hold on the arete before breaking left to small crimps. Set up on these and then launch up and left for the big rail. Pull up from this to a positive pocket above and top out the highest part of the wall.

Uphill of Sparkies Roof

1) Stair Master V1
With hands on good, but extremely rough, holds above the lip, pull through the roof and climb the easy slab above.

2) Crack and Slab V1
The prominent diagonal crack at the right side of the boulder.

3) Pranayama (sds) *** V3
Sit start with hands in the short vertical crack and on small crimps under the overlap. Throw up and right to large holds on the left end of the ledge. From these move up and back left to get established in the groove system above. Follow this, first right and then left, to a high but pleasant finish.

4) Breath Easy **V3
Those tall enough will be able to reach a good ledge at the left end of the wall. Make hard moves in order to get stood on this ledge and finish directly up the imposing wall above.

 

5) Pebble Wrestler * V1
Start beneath the vertical crack and, using an assortment of pebbles, move up to finish on this.

6) The Blob ** V1
Follow and assortment of ‘blob’ like protrusions up the left side of the face.

7) Pebble Wall * V2
Climb the right side of the wall on small pebbles and crimps.

8) Second Skin * V1
Climb the centre of the wall, finishing up a shallow groove.

Grade Opinions

Coming Soon
Jaws
Jaws
Jaws

Coming Soon
Seamless
Seamless
Seamless

Coming Soon
Trainspotting
Trainspotting
Trainspotting

Coming Soon
Underworld
Underworld
Underworld

Coming Soon
Pulp Fiction
Pulp Fiction
Pulp Fiction

Coming Soon
Raging Bull
Raging Bull
Raging Bull

Coming Soon
Raging Bull (sds)
Raging Bull (sds)
Raging Bull (sds)

Coming Soon
Black Stallion
Black Stallion
Black Stallion

Coming Soon
Taipan
Taipan
Taipan
Coming Soon
Gaijin
Gaijin
Gaijin
Coming Soon
Sparkies Roof
Sparkies Roof
Sparkies Roof
Coming Soon
Stu's Roof
Stu's Roof
Stu's Roof
Coming Soon
Mojo Rising
Mojo Rising
Mojo Rising
Coming Soon
Flying Russian
Flying Russian
Flying Russian

Coming Soon
Mega Tsunami
Mega Tsunami
Mega Tsunami

Coming Soon
Ghost Train
Ghost Train
Ghost Train
Coming Soon
Haunted House
Haunted House
Haunted House

 

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