To the south of the main buttresses of Temple Crag is a cluster of buttresses on the portion of Lo Yan Shan facing towards Cheung Chau. These buttresses (named Prospect, Mainstrike, Motherlode and Tapas) offer a selection of long, typically low-to-mid grade routes on granitic slabs and walls. Another insane amount of work from Francis Haden to bring these routes to life.
Access
General access is the same as for Temple Crag itself (see full details here) and involves getting yourself to either Pui O Village by ferry / bus or, for those taking a taxi, to the start of the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail to shorten the walk slightly. From here, follow the lower approach path as for Temple Crag (i.e. breaking off right on the wide trail rather than going up the stone steps to the summit of Lo Yan Shan).
Follow this path for about 20 minutes, passed the access trail to Temple Crag, until you reach a small stream and large boulder. From here a small dirt trail takes you up the hillside towards the various climbing areas (about 10 to 15 minutes). At the fork in the trail, follow the access route described for each of the crags in the following sections.
Mainstrike
Upper Tier: From the base of Prospecting (Route #8) turn left and contour the base of the crag to reach routes #1 to #7. These routes are all less than about 15 m in length and typically only need up to 10 quickdraws.
1) Hostile Intent – F6b+
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
2) Native * F6a+
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
3) Quench * F6b
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
4) A Sunny Place for Shady People * F6b
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
5) Gold Rush * F6b+
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
6) Huntsman * F6a+
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
7) Junk Percussion * F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
8) Prospecting * F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
For Routes #9 to #17, continue along the vegetated ledge separating the Upper Tier and the Lower Tier of the crag.
9) Lucky Strike ** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Alex Gould & Cindy Gould (2019)
10) Main Strike *** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Alex Gould & Cindy Gould (2019)
11) Opiate *** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
12) Running Up That Hill ** F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
13) Pocket Full of Quartz ** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
14) Fools Gold ** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
15) Old Timer * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
16) Lost Strike * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
17) White Pass Way ** F3
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
Lower Tier: Follow the trail downhill from the middle of the Upper Tier to a pinnacle of rock, from where a trail brings you to the base of the climbs.
1) Poor Mans Claim * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
2) Country Rock * F3
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
3) Only Happy When it Rains * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
4) Quartz Bomb *** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
5) Flake Away * F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
6) Crosscut * F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
Prospect
This buttress provides a small collection of routes above an elevated belay stance. Access is gained from the base of Mainstrike (Lower), from where a trail leads across a short shrubby hillside to a stream and scree covered slope. Cross the scree to reach a series of rock ledges, from which a bolt protected approach (Route #1) brings you to the terrace at the base of the climbing. The loose nature of the scree in this area means that extreme caution should be exercised on the approach.
1) Stairway to Heaven * F3
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
2) In the Shadows * F6b
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
3) All Under Heaven ** Open Project (about F7b)
4) Side Strike * F6b
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
5) No Country for Old Men – F5+
F.A. Francis Haden & David Canon (2019)
The Motherlode
The showcase of Temple South and a buttress offering long, fine routes in a stunning setting. To access, follow the trail from Mainstrike (Lower) acids the shrubby hillside / stream / scree as for Prospect. From the scree slope an obvious (but small) trail leads to a short hand line that takes you down the slope and towards the base of the sector.
Note: Most routes are close to 30m in length and require a 60m rope to climb them, with some requiring a 70m rope. You’ll also need close to 20 quickdraws for most routes too. Do not climb here with anything less than a 60m rope and be sure to tie a knot in the end of it to avoid any bleating accidents!
1) Ramp Starter * F3
F.A. Francis Haden & David Phillips (2019)
2) Quartz * F3
F.A. Francis Haden & Anita Phillips (2019)
3) Centreline * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & David Phillips (2019)
4) Grade Control * F4+
F.A. Francis Haden & Anita Phillips (2019)
The following two climbs (#6 and #7) both require a 70 m rope:
5) Iron Laden * F5+
70m rope required, not to mention lots of quickdraws…
F.A. Francis Haden & David Phillips (2019)
6) Fossicking * F4+
70m rope required, not to mention lots of quickdraws…
F.A. Francis Haden & David Phillips (2019)
7) Plentitude ** F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
8) The Mother Lode *** F5
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
9) Magnetron *** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
10) Magnetic Fields *** F6a
70m rope required, not to mention lots of quickdraws…
F.A. Francis Haden, David Phillips & Anita Phillips (2019)
11) Instigate Emergency Closure *** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
12) Just Searing Away *** F6c+
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
13) The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller *** F6a+
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
14) White Lightening ** F6b+
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
15) Lawless * F6b
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
16) Old Times in Decline ** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
Tapas
From the pinnacle of rock near the Lower Tier of Mainstrike, follow the trail down the hillside until you reach a short down climb. From here the climbs can be accessed by either staying on a trail to the left of the crag or by scrambling down a gully between the main wall and an easy angled slab.
1) One and All the Same * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
2) Feeling Frictionless * F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
3) Zen Den * F4
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
4) Columbian Soul * F7b
F.A. David Canon (2019)
5) Activate All Systems * F6c+
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
6) Lean on Me *** F6c
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
7) Skyline ** F6c
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
8) Hold Your Colour ** F6a
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2019)
9) Peppered ** F6b
F.A. Francis Haden (2019)
10) Tapas * F6a
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Alex Gould & Cindy Gould (2019)