The Gift (F7a). Photo: Stuart Millis
General
Situated on the same headland to the south of Pui O as Temple Crag, Eagle Crag offers climbs similar in nature to those found at the more popular Beacon Hill, except here the crag is more than twice the height. All of the climbs are between 18 and 24 m in length and the majority can be lead safely on natural gear. As with all crags in Hong Kong, no retro-bolting of existing routes please. There is still scope for many new routes on the crag and numerous boulder problems can also be found in the area.
A PDF guide for the crag by the man who’s shown n more TLC than anyone (Alberto Cipriani) can be downloaded here.
The crag is located on the shoreline of the western side of the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula, Lantau Island, below Temple Crag.
Approach
Catch the ferry from Central, pier 7, to Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay) on Lantau Island and then take a 10 minute bus ride to Pui O. Alight at the first stop in the village.
Walk the path across the marsh to Ham Tin. Follow the road for 10min to the beach (stay east of the river/estuary) and then take the obvious path along the peninsula. When almost directly beneath Temple Crag, and just after passing a grave site located above the footpath, a small bridge crosses a large stream channel. Approximately 5m before the bridge a small dirt path leads down the hill to the coast. Follow this path to the sea and scramble along the coast line until you reach the crag. This is marginally trickier at high tide. Without doubt the nicest way to arrive is on a junk trip with a tender (dingy) to enable access to the rocks.
Routes
1) Via Secca F6c+
Translated as ‘dry route’, you’ll likely need to wait for the dry season for this one to remain free of seepage. Start from the sloping shelf left of the main wall and step over the crack to get established proper. Climb through the small scoop before moving left to eventually gain the ledge and lower off above.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2022)
2) Red Cross 5 ** F6b
Pre clip (with rope in the draw) the first bolt standing on the rock, this is just a precaution to avoid banging on the rock behind. The climb starts slightly on the right of the vertical of the first bolt. Move left as you gain height following the line of bolts. Search for existing but unobvious holds. Once through the crux you reach a ledge with two more bolts to go before the chain. Pay attention for loose rocks.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani, Gianfranco Bigazzi (2014)
3) Done It Before ** F6c+
A fine and relatively amenable line up the left side of the wall. Start on good holds low down before launching through technical crimps sequence to gain the ledge above. Continue up the arête and wall, trending right to the lower off.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2019)
4) Tide *** F8a
Easy climbing up the diagonal crack brings you to the small roof, where powerful pulls may or may not get you established in the flake system above. Follow this and discontinuous vertical cracks up the wall until one final hard move, right where you want it least, brings you to the anchors.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2021)
5) Venus’ Birthplace *** F7c+
Another Alberto test piece added to the main wall and another cracking looking line. Climb easily up the lower wall to reach the overlap. Pull through this on small crimps to get established on the headwall, which is ascended via a series of long moves that eventually bring you to easier ground near the top.
F.A. Alberto Cirpiani (2022)
6) The Gift *** F7a
A superb line. Thin moves into the shallow scoop low down leads to even thinner moves higher up.
F.A. Paul Collis & M. Lancaster (2003)
7) Eroici Furori F6b
Climb the arête with good jugs till the end of the slightly overhung section. Overcome the first crux searching for small but existing holds, than balancy moves lead to a horizontal crack. Gain the ledge on the right to reach the anchor. For a harder finish, from the horizontal crack climb straight/left following the bolt in the “V ” without veering right on the ledge for a 6c surprisingly hard finish.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi, Alberto Cipriani (2014)
8) Liam’s Cry E1 5b
Start at sea level, climb up into the slightly overhanging crack line until it forks just below a small tree. Take the right hand fork (crux) and move up to a small stance. Finish up the vertical crack to a belay above. Best done at low tide to avoid upsetting your belayer too much! (Best not done at all to avoid upsetting yourself too much either!)
F.A. Storm Bate
9) Time Creates Heroes * F6a
The route is developed around three slightly overhanging walls and two ledges. With low tide, start the climb from sea level. A well featured first section leads to the first ledge where you have a choice to veer right and climb the arête for a more challenging version of this climb or exploit the open crack on the left to establish yourself on the second ledge. Again use the obvious vertical crack line to overcome the intimidating but easily doable last section to reach the chain terrace.It is better climbed with lower tides.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi, Alberto Cipriani, (2014)
10) There’re No White Dots * F6a+
Similar to Time Creates Heroes, this route is ideally climbed starting from the sea level when the tide is low. However, if the tide is high, the first bolt can be clipped from the higher ground on the right. The route exploits three existing bolts of the old trad route Grave Diggers. The addition of three lower bolts and a higher one makes this an interesting sports route. Climb from the arête till you enter the open book section and from here, some technical moves on a featured wall allow you to reach good jugs on the bulgy rock. Mantel on the terrace for an easy reach of the belay chain.
F.A. Erica Hung (2014)
11) Surfers Wave VS 4c
Climb the obvious diagonal crack and then vertically to a small ledge. Move left and climb up behind the small vertical face to belay, or alternatively finish up the vertical crack.
F.A. Keith Rayson
12) Grave Digger ** E1 5b
Climb the corner crack over sloping ledges to a good ledge next to a small tree. Move up the tight corner, past three bolts, and then step right onto the slab. Finish at a tree belay.
F.A. Ken Brown & Storm Bate
13) R.I.M.A. (Rapidly Increasing My Appetite) *** F7b, F7c (8m, 9m)
First pitch: Climb the route following the tiny crack line. A stretchy move secures the access to the bulge. Subsequently you will enjoy the clip of the fourth draw from an awkwardly balanced position. With a delicate move reach the fault line of cracks leading to the anchor.
Second pitch: From the first pitch anchor step above the giant ledge and set the new belay station. Climb the face straight up on tiny holds. This is an excellent technical climb on the tip of your fingers. Resist with all your will the temptation to veer right and grab the arête to avoid spoiling your chance to have real fun. If you really cannot live without touching the arête, do it only ABOVE the last bolt and you’ll keep the grade of the route unaffected.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani, Gianfranco Bigazzi (2014)
Alberto Cipriani on Pitch 2 of R.I.M.A (F7c). Photo: Dan Hannah
14) Junk Trip *** F6b+
Follow the curvy crack line to the left of the overhanging face. Make a strenuous move up to a small ledge (crux). Continue up the crack in the corner to the belay. An alternative, and more satisfying, finish from the small ledge is to move right and ascend a small flake and climb the slab and arete (1 bolt).
F.A. Ken Brown (on trad gear)
15) Eagle Paradise *** F7b
A superb problem up the steep wall right of the curving crack line. Follow the large juggy flakes to a thin move to reach the last bolt.
F.F.A. Rocky Lok (Bolted by Martin Lancaster)
16) S & M ** F7c
A fierce and technical climb. Start at the base of a short vertical crack. Establish yourself on this before making hard moves right to a good hold. Compose yourself before making further difficult moves back left to a second short vertical crack. Move right once again to a good hold and then continue up the wall above, moving slightly right to use some good side pulls. Hand traverse the lip of the ledge to the lower off for Route 6. Named after the first ascentionists (Spark & Millis), nothing kinky going on here…
F.A. Colin Spark & Stuart Millis (2003)
Colin Spark on the FA of S&M (F7c). Photo: Stuart Millis
17) Jumping Jack Flash ** F6c**
Climb the overhanging face by a small pinnacle and diagonally right onto a slab. Climb to the centre of the large block and move up on thin holds. Continue up the block and finish up the vertical wall.
F.A. Storm Bate & Ken Brown
18) Caffe Buppalo F6c
Start on the right of Jumping Jack Flash, climb the face (not the arête) on small holds. Follow the line of bolts and climb the corner. A sequence of powerful moves will lead you to the rounded ledge below the chain.
NOTE: The route is meant to be climbed avoiding using the arête on the right. Double the 4th and 5th draw or use a long sling to minimise rope drag.
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi, Alberto Cipriani (2014)
Gianfranco Bigazzi on Cafe Buppalo (F6c). Photo: Dan Hannah
19) Chinese Dominoes E1 5c
Start at the same spot as ‘Keith’s Pride’ but climb onto the small vertical face and then move diagonally up and left to an obvious small crack. Climb up the crack over the bulge to the right and cross to the lowest corner of the large block. Finish up the wide crack in the block without using the adjacent pinnacle (crux).
F.A. Ken Brown
20) Keith’s Pride * HVS 5a
Climb to the foot of the small vertical face, move right and then up on friction holds. Continue up to the lowest corner of the large block before climbing up and onto the adjacent pinnacle. Finish up the vertical face (crux) to the belay. An easier alternative finish is to traverse beneath the block and up the narrow chimney on the side.
F.A. Keith Rayson
Right Wall
Several easier routes have also been added on the wall around the corner from the main crag. Topo to come later (see PDF linked above in the meantime):
1) Big Night Out * F5
F.A. Josephine Persson (2020)
2) Yellow Line F4
F.A. Josephine Persson (2020)
3) Blue Line F4
F.A. Josephine Persson (2020)
4) Green Line F4
F.A. Josephine Persson (2020)
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There is no way to safely lower off the Green Line on the right wall without risking cutting your rope. Do not attempt.