The Cove |

Chris Tang powering through the roof on Flying Crab. Photo: Karen Chan

The Cove

Deep Water Soloing [marginally – its only really shoulder / head deep water] in the cove on the west coast of the island. Access is by following the main path to the summit of Ap Lei Pai. Shortly after this, break right and bushwhack down the hill (some vague trails) to reach easy scrambles down on either side of the crag.

Silvy Liu off No Push Needed. Photo: Karen Chan

Recommended to only use this venue for DWS during high tides as its pretty shallow in places. Also be careful of the rocks beneath the mouth of the right side of the crag. In general, tides >1.5m will be moderate; >1.75m will be reasonable and >2.0m awesome. Less then 1.5m as you’re essentially just soloing above a puddle!

This crag was only first experimented with in late-2019 so some suspect rock may still remain. Caution and cleaning recommended for further development.

Left Wall Routes

Currently only a couple of easy’ish lines climbed – Lines 1 and 2 are both easy F6a’ish and have relatively safe splashdown depths. The other line looks plausible but might be tricky to start (and stay dry) and could also get a bit too shallow for a route that high?

Nick Street on the FA of Line 2. Photo: Bee Street

Right Wall Routes

All of these require a low traverse (or boat) to access if you want to stay dry. The main wall looks awesome but could probs do with cleaning to check for loose rock. It also gets shallower in this area so be careful! Easiest way back out of the water is to swim around the big boulder and climb onto the small block behind it. You can rock hop to shore from here (just time it with the waves).

1) No Push Needed * F5
Easy climbing up the right side of the face on good jugs. However, a shallow boulder in the water behind means this is no fall territory!
F.A.: Fei (2020)

2) Flying Crab *** F6b
Climb the groove to the roof. Make committing and difficult moves through the lip of this before engaging your inner ‘passat’ to launch for a good jug on the headwall above. Finish more easily via good but spaced holds.
F.A. Jack Lam (2021)

Jack Lam snagging the FA of Flying Crab. Photo: Karen Chan

3) Oh Crab ** F6c
Climb the groove to the roof. Follow the crack at the back of this left and across the wall to eventually join First Penguin where it breaches the roof. Finish as for First Penguin.
F.A. Long Tsang (2021)

4) First Penguin ** F6c
Make a wet start where the wall starts to overhang. Climb directly above this to breach the roof at the obvious fractures. One of the easier and safer lines on the wall, provided the tide is high.
F.A. Ray Ho (2020)

5) Shallow *** F7b
Start as for First Penguin (or #3) but break out left onto steep terrain just beneath the roof. Continue across the wall beneath the roof before heading directly up in to the rectangular notch formed by a small overlap. Step right beneath the overlap to gain the open wall and trend back right across this to reach the top. The name of the line gives you an indication of water condition…
F.A. Ray Ho (2021)