This collection of high quality, but somewhat short, traditional climbs gives you a good excuse to dust off the trad rack and try and remember how to place your own protection for a change. Most routes have convenient bolt belays set back just beyond the top of the routes.
1) Gunpowder ** F6c+
Blast up the steep leaning wall left of the arête to a lower off. (8m, 4 Bolts)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
2) Lean Too * VS 4b
Start just right of the arête. Climb onto the ledge; place a good cam and step left then move up to a series of overlaps. Pull directly over using a good jug out left and gain the top. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
3) Starboard Side HS 4b (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
4) Tuff Love ** E2 5c
The prominent overhanging groove is an exercise in placing gear whilst trying not to fall off! Force entry to the groove then battle your way to the top. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
5) Crab Walk HVS 5a
Start below a small corner. Awkward moves left gain entry to the corner above and flake line. A small cam protects the exit. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
6) Flake Away E1 5b
A large cam protects moves onto the ledge, arrange gear then follow the vertical crack above.
(8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
7) Crack Attack VS 4c
The vertical crack. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
8) Cream Pai ** HVS 5b
Great climbing, good gear and a challenging finish. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
9) Tuff Enough? E1 5b
Start left of the mid height roof. Climb up into a small niche and arrange gear. Pull out on the right and follow a thin crack, with a testing exit. Sufficient gear exists however it is awkward to place on lead. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
10) Sulphur Shuffle * F6a
(8m, 4 Bolts)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
11 – Left Wall F5
(8m, 3 Bolts)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
12) Rough and Tuff HS 4a
The corner line. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
13) Do I Get Vouchers With This? E1 5a
Looks sketchy and it is! Gear can be awkward to place. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden 16/03/2015
14) Ships That Pass All Day and Night HVS 5a
Start below the blocky arête. A medium cam protects the start as you climb the arête from the left hand side to a rest point at mid height. Arrange gear and finish direct. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015
15) Down by the Sea HS 4b
The obvious curved crack. (8m)
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015