General
A collection of scattered blocs on the hillsides slightly further north and up the road of Jat’s Incline from the more frequented sectors such as The Crown etc. Although more scattered, a number of good low-grade problems exist.
Approach
The blocs are best approached from Choi Fai Estate at the bottom of Jat’s Incline, which has parking at the estate as well as minibus service (No. 16 from Ping Shek Estate in Choi Hung). From the bus stop, walk up Jat’s Incline until reaching the staircases just before those leading to the Sam Fung Temple (三峰廟), about 5 minutes from base of Jat’s Incline.
The Hillside Sector is best accessed via a small trail about 50 m lower down Jat’s Incline than the Ma On Shan Country Park sign board. The Path Bloc is reached after just a few minutes going up the righthand access trail. The other blocs are located by following your nose along the various smaller trails criss crossing the hillside.
Blocs
Path Bloc
Located adjacent to the lower of the two hiking trails, only a short way up the trail from Jat’s Incline.
1) Imperious (sds) ** V4
Start with wide side pulls for both left and right and make a powerful move to gain the jug in the niche. From here follow a line of holds up the lip, staying on the face of the bloc, to eventually gain positive holds to top out at it’s highest point.
2) Imperious Low (sds) Project
Start with a positive side pull for the left and a low, small undercut crimp beneath the roof for the right. Make powerful insecure moves to gain the crimps on the face before gaining the jugs in the niche and finishing per the original line.
Jungle Bloc
A small bloc located just off to the right side of the lower trail, with a few worthwhile lines that are worth a quick stop on your way to other blocs. Unless you fancy a jungle bash, the easiest way back down is to descend Kipling Slab.
1) Kipling Slab * VB
Climb the featured slab to the left of the overhanging face.
2) The Jungle Bloc (sds) ** V2
Start matched on the jug low on the left arete of the overhanging face. Slap your way up the features along the arete, avoiding straying too far left and staying predominantly along the overhanging arete. Upon reaching the prow, pull over the lip and onto the slab, following the arete to the top of the bloc.
3) Rudyard Roof (sds) Project
Start sat using the opposing crimps on the right side of the overhang. Somehow slap your way up the right arete of the overhang until it is possible to pull on to the slab above the rounded lip.
Emporium Bloc
A slightly larger bloc situated just to the right of the lower hiking trail, a few minutes up the hill from the Jungle Bloc.
1) Emporium (sds) * V2
Start sat using the good high side pull for the rigth (the short will need to stack pads) and the low flake for the left. Move up to the pocket above the side pull and then reach up into the crack / groove above. Finish up this.
2) Emporium Low (sds) Project
Add one extra move to the previous line by starting low and left at the crack and flake. The crux is trusting that the flake won’t simply explode n your hands.
3) Project
Possible line up right side of the bloc from low holds? not tried
With a bit more clearance there should also be some lines on the left side of the bloc, closer to the path.
Plantation Bloc
A large bloc with a fine face on the downhill side and a narrow highball face on its eastern side too. The bloc is located in an area where many of the paths in this portion of hillside converge.
1) Habitation * V1
Climb the left arete of the face.
2) Diaspora * V2
Climb the face on th left side of the bloc, starting from small flakes to eventually reach the jug on Orchard.
3) Orchard ** V2
Climb the face just to the right of the vein/seam of rock, aiming directly for the obvious jug at about 3/4 height.
4) Rubber Soul ** V3
Attack the middle of the face, starting beneath the flared crack.
5) Hacienda * V3
Climb the face just to the left of the right arete, with a tricky start leading to an easier finish trending slightly left to follow the juggy ledges.
6) Project
Climb the highball right arête of the face. High, tricky and with a slightly sketchy landing…
