General
Sham Wan beach is a regular nesting site for green turtles and is closed to the public between 1st April and 31st October. Illegal entry is liable to a $50,000 fine.
See here for the excellent mini-guide prepared by Tim Somerset.
Access
It’s possible to approach both from Mo Tat Wan and So Kwu Wan piers. The hike from So Kwu Wan (via Lamma Boulders) is steeper but shorter, unless you follow the coastal path via Mo Tat Wan that is…
from Sok Kwu Wan
Turning right from the pier, head through the series of restaurants to the Tin Hau Temple. From there, take the stairs heading up the hill and follow the road to the ridgeline. Do not take the turn-off for the pagoda, instead start downhill until you reach an empty-looking village with a junction with a road for Shek Pai Wan and one for Sham Wan. Turn right to Sham Wan (the path with a red emergency call box on it) and continue for 5-10 minutes to arrive at the beach.
Alternatively, turn left off the ferry pier and follow the coastal path towards Mo Tat Wan and then use the description below for guidance from the village onwards.
via Mo Tat Wan
From the Mo Tat Wan Ferry pier, follow the path along the beach to The Bay Restaurant where the path breaks left to a set of stairs. From here, the path takes you through Mo Tat Wan New Village, and after 30 minutes, Yeung Shue Ha Village and Shek Pai Wan. Follow the path past the beach, and as it heads inland again, there will be a junction with a sign for Sok Kwu Wan. Take the opposite path (the one with a red emergency call box on it) and continue for 5-10 minutes to arrive at Sham Wan.
East Shore Crag
1) Bootleg Parabola *** F7a+
Classic line of the crag. Start in the roof and make powerful moves through juicy jugs along the lip to the first crux. Finesse your way through the lip to a layback jug and a good rest. Climb through a short slab to a rest ledge and float up the final slab crux. For the full F7a+ experience, avoid extending the anchor. Can also be done on gear! (we think)
F.A. Tim Somerset (2021)
2) Love Nature, Kill Trees ** E1 5c
Best trad line in the area and can be done differently depending on safety. Pure trad lines can be done starting deep in the roof crack, or on the boulder next to the face under the roof and reaching over for an initial piece placement. Alternatively, you can start on the same face as Bootleg Parabola using the bolt as your first and only fixed protection. Walk-off is easy.
F. A. James Leifer (2021)
3) Hug My Stomata ** HVS 5a
A fine crack line perfect to practice gear placement on. All placing positions are solid, and the crack takes gear fantastically. Beware of jamming your rope when lowering. Walk-off is easy.
F. A. James Leifer
Strawberry Dynamite Project
This is the mega off-width crack line to the left of Bootleg Parabola, which can either be bouldered along its length or climbed as a trad climb to the top of the crag.
FA: Lau Koon Hing?