General

A collection of boulders that make a great companion to a lazy day at the beach (a good venue to keep the non-climbing partners happy)

Access

Access to the boulders is gained by taking any of the buses that pass along South Lantau Road and getting off at the bus stops for Upper Cheung Sha Beach. From these a short walk along the road brings you to a steep access road dropping down to the parking area next to Long Coast Sea Sports (equipment rental for water sports available). A short walk west along the beach brings you to an obvious headland protruding in to the sea and the boulders themselves.

Problems

Given the beach nature of the blocs, the difficulty of those problems with sit starts may vary from time to time due to the impact of sand erosion and deposition following storm events.

Big Bertha Blocs

1) Pump It (sds) V1
Sit start on sand. V1 Small boulder on right side of Big Bertha rock.  Good holds to start at the crack. Move up avoiding left block.

1) Sandy Toes (sds) V3
The left trending crack, starting as low down as you can fit.

2) Project
Start as for for Sandy Toes but launch up from the crack to the good hold at the top of the arete.

3) Twin Biceps V2
Start with hands matched on the good undercut and launch up to the crack above. Finish as for Sandy Toes.

4) Project
Start as for Twin Biceps, but continue up on tiny pockets before launching out right for the big black jug.

1) Hump (sds) V1
Start from the good jug and head straight up the wall above.

2) Yin’s Traverse (sds) V2
Start at the same jug and traverse along the lip using slopers and poor feet.

1) Under Wunder V1
Start deep inside the cave at the deepest hold. Use underclings and other small holds to work your way out through the roof, making use of the side wall for feet.

2) Ryu’s Cave Route *** V5/6
As for Under Wunder but without any use of the side wall on the right.

UFO Bloc

1) UFO (sds) V1
Start matched on the large slopers. Slap up to the lip and then mantle up and over this.

2) UFO Traverse
From the sloping start holds, slap your way right along the crack system.

A Half Die Bloc

1) Nam 55 (sds) V2
The left arete of the bloc.

2) Ryu’s Arete V4
Start at the jug low down and climb the right arete of the bloc.

1) Andy Along the Crack * V1
Sit start matched on the good flake and follow this feature up the wall above.