A PDF guide for the entire crag is available for the crags here
(suggest print in booklet form page for best viewing).
Bouldering wall climbing on steroids! A fantastic collection of super steep routes on positive holds. Unique climbing for Hong Kong.
1) Walk the Plank * F6b
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/11/2015
2) Black Watch F6c
FA: Francis Haden 22/11/2015
3) Crimson Tide F6b+
FA: Francis Haden 28/02/2016
4) The Rush to Crush F6a+
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 26/12/2015
5) Lean Burn ** F7a
Start at the left side of the cave and make a series of pulls up the wall before a long span right gets you established above the void and on to the upper part of Shark Attack. From here a few more big pulls bring you to the anchors (Rams Horn currently missing /damaged apparently?).
FA: Francis Haden (2015)
6) Shark Attack *** F7a
A steep, fun and sustained journey up good holds through the steeper portion of the crag (Rams Horn at anchor currently missing /damaged apparently?)
FA: Francis Haden (2016)
7) Diesel Power *** F7b
Start at the back of the cave and make powerful moves to the lip, where a stiff pull may or may not bring a good crimp by the bolt (be sure to clip the draw the right way round to avoid blocking the hold too much). From here more strong pulls bring the ledge above and an easier finish on ‘thank god’ jugs out left. One of the steepest routes in HK.
FA: Neil Carruthers (2017)
8) The Devil Wears Prana ** F7b+
Relatively straight forward climbing in the lower part leads to a powerful pull / dyno to the ledge and an even harder move left to gain the holds leading to the lower off.
FA: Neil Carruthers (2016)
8a) The Devil Drinks Diesel *** F7c
A complete climate / link up of other routes but fun nonetheless, especially for those who have already sent everything else in the cave. Climb the first half of Diesel Power to the good ledge after the crux. From here, traverse right a few feet to get to the start of the hard climbing on The Devil Wears Prana, which is followed to the top.
9) Press Gang ** F7b
A fine bouldery route up the steep wall left of the corner. Initial moves on positive crimps, pockets and breaks bring you to an awkward clip and powerful pulls on small crimps up the blank section of wall (a bit of extra height is a definite advantage here). These lead (hopefully) to good ledges, which are followed to the top.
FA: Colin Rouse (2015)
10) Final Approach *** F6c
Good climbing up the obvious left facing corner with a fun finish.
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015)
11) Down by the Sea F5
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 30/05/2015
12) Sideshow F6a+
FA: Francis Haden, Eugenie Knipper, Jon Knipper, Sue Hazel 10/01/2016