Gully Bottom
In order to reach the next climbs continue down the gully until it is possible to scramble rightwards to reach ledges beneath Central Slab and a big, steep wall to its righthand side.
1) Of Tide and Time – F5
Pleasant technical climbing up the short wall and groove located on the corner seaward facing wall at the base of Sea Gully, just to the right of Truly, Madly, Deeply.
F.A. Francis Haden, Laurent Jacob & Donna Kwok (2012)
2) Truly, Madly, Deeply – F7a
The technical hanging grove and arête right of Sea Gypsy. Climb easily to the 3rd bolt and a ledge. Pull into the groove above and improvise a dynamic, technical sequence through the bulge (crux) to a cramped rest on the right. Reach back left in an exposed position around the arête to improving holds and a brief rest. A final few moves gain the big ledge above and the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)
3) A Lost Friend – F6a+
On the right side of the wall is a hanging crack up high. This route takes a direct line upon the slab and broken wall to reach that, and then follow it to the lower off.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)
4) Sea Gypsy ** F6b
This climb interconnects a series of features top the blocky wall, starting up the slab before trending left to join Catch a Falling Star by the fourth bolt, near the detached pillar and hand jamming crack.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)
5) Death in the Afternoon ** F6c+
Start from the right side of the large belay ledge. Attach the steep lower wall before a broken section bring you to the groove line above. Follow this to the top.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)
6) Catch a Falling Star * F6c
Climb the last set of prominent vertical cracks and grooves on the left of the broken section of cliff, before the wall becomes blank and largely featureless .
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)
7) Tung Lung Master ** F8a
Note: Please stay of until further notice as some key holds require stabilisation/reinforcement. If attempted before this is completed, the route may suffer irreparable damage that changes it’s nature permanently. The thin crack line that splits the right side of the big wall looming above Central Slab is a technical and sustained test piece.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2017)
8) Closed Project
The wall left of Tung Lung Master is a closed project (you probably wouldn’t be able to climb it anyway)