General
A lone bloc with a small number of problems on (sadly) somewhat crumbly and friable rock, especially on the right side of the bloc. Due to the fragile nature of the rock, try to tread carefully to avoid damage or loss of lines due to hold breakage.
Originally developed by Tso Lui Fung, Chris Mak, Sam Yu and crew around 2014, but then largely forgotten about until a keen crew went back in 2022 to unearth it once again.
Access
A somewhat brutal approach that’s sure to get your legs working. From Yiu Hing Road, ascend the steep slope access ladder and then weave your way up the various slope access staircases for another 20 minutes or until you reach a small catchwater and trail. Turn right and follow the trail for 50 m or so until you reach a small metal plank that allows your to cross the catchwater and reach further staircases on the opposite side. Follow these upslope unti reaching the next trail contouring the hillside. Turn right and follow this around the hillside. Shortly after passing a large grave site on the slopes above, keep an eye out for a dirt trail on the left, with the bloc itself being quite obvious from the main trail. Overall approach time is about 25-30 minutes.
Problems
1) Final Flash (sds) V11
A fierce and technical problem up the right side of the overhanging face, from a sit start on the low crimp rail. See here for the FA video
2) Kamehameha (sds) ** V5’ish
Start matched somewhat scrunched up on a positive hold in the lowest crack. From here twist and turn your way up the face above until committing moves bring you to the lip, and then even more committing moves take you through it.
3) Anger ** V5 (Note: has lost holds so much harder now)
Originally starting from a juggy side pull on the worryingly hollow sounding flake, this line then launched out audaciously through the bulging roof above to a committing mantel finish. Sadly, the loss of the start holds may have rendered it a much poorer (and harder) proposition. See here for original condition.
4) Picollo * V4
Start on the right edge of the ledge/crack and traverse left across these to join, and finish up, Dragon Ball.
5) Dragon Ball (sds) * V2
Start matched on reasonable holds on the lip. Make powerful moves form these up and into the sharp layback flake above. Press this out to get stood on the start holds and then amble your way up the easy groove above.
6) Kame-Sen’nin (sds) ** V6
Start sat beneath the right end of the low lip. Pull on then make your way leftwards along this, with increasing difficulty, until you reach a positive flake. Collect your thoughts on this before continuing further left to eventually gain a good slot. Finish directly up form this. See here for FA video.
7) Snake Road (sds) ** V9
An elongated version of Kame-Sen’nin that continues even further along the lip (avoiding the positive finishing crack of that line), turning the corner and traversing the lip of the steep back face of the bloc. Longer than most sport routes in HK… See here for a video of the FA.
8) ?
The steep back face is rumored to have had several double-digit problems established on it during the initial development. However, details of these are not known and, based on the fragile nature of the rock, chances are half of them no longer exist and the rock sheds it’s skin.