Until 2020, access to Majestic Slab was a vegetated mystery that required wilful determination and sheer bloody mindedness to achieve. Fortunately, these were traits that Brian Boyd embraced enthusiastically when he set about pulling the crag back to life and establishing a host of new ‘modern’ routes to accompany the existing trad lines up there. Prelim details of Brian’s exploits can be found on the Mountain Project page he maintains here and more details will be added as and when they become available. In the meantime, get up there and explore before nature takes over and reclaims the approach trails for herself.
Records from previous guides suggest that the best access is from the upper entrance to Good Hope School. From here the concrete drainage channel can be followed a short way before a break (?) in the undergrowth allows one to head off left and up. From here you’re pretty much on you own and will need to follow your nose to get to the crag…
1) Dilly Dally – Severe
This climb starts on the bottom right of the slabs at a vegetated crack.
Pitch 1: Climb the crack running diagonally right and belay at a tree.
Pitch 2: Continue up the crack to the right of the steep wall. Stay in the crack when it steepens and layback to reach a sturdy tree. Climb beyond this to belay to the right.
Pitch 3: Climb the easy wall above.
2) Wanderer – Severe
This climb starts just left of Dilly Dally.
Pitch 1: Climb the rightwards trending corner. At the end of the corner, move left and climb up to a tree before moving back right to a slab. Climb this to reach a tree belay at the top left of the slab.
Pitch 2: Climb the right corner above the belay, following small cracks above the corner to reach the top of the crag.
3) Quintessentially Quenten – F6a (Top Rope)
A protectionless line up the steep slab to the right of Vegetation
4) Vegetation – VDiff
The climb starts left of Wanderer above a line pine tree and follows the vegetated indentation.
Pitch 1: Climb the vegetated indentation, moving left at about 30m to a tree belay.
Pitch 2: From the tree, move right along the ledge and climb the crack above. Follow this over easier ground to belay on the rocks above.
5) C.A.S. – VDiff
This climb follows the crack situated between the line of Vegetation and the large gully to the left.
Pitch 1: Climb in or slightly right of the crack, beneath a large protruding tree. Follow this to a small tree before moving right to a more study tree.
Pitch 2: Follow the crack in the left of the corner above.
6) Forestry Grooves – HVD
This climb begins down in the base of the right gully, some 7 m left of C.A.S.
Pitch 1: Climb over the vegetation in the crack to reach the corner, which is then followed to a mass of tree roots and a belay.
Pitch 2: Move out of the corner and in to the right crack, which is followed.
Pitch 3: Climb the rib and wall above.
Pitch 4: Scramble up the broken crag above and climb the centre of this. From the bottom of a long rooted tree, climb the corner and go over the overhang. Follow the slabs up to the corner and belay here.
Pitch 5: Move to the left of the crag and climb the obvious corner. Move right up the vegetated gully and climb the wall to finish in the corner.