A collection of trad crags located within Sai Kung Country Park, in the general region of Long Ke and Tai Long Wan.

Note: The information below is out best guess on crag locations etc. based on the 1977 Guide to Sai Kung produced by Keith Hazelaar and nearly all information is unverified. As such, use the maps etc. with caution and, if in doubt, refer back to the original guide (available for download here)

Long Ke Cliffs

A couple of small compact cliffs located on the tip of the headland opposite Fan Tsang Chau (Conical Island), with Neptune’s Zawn being located on the outer part of the headland (i.e. facing in to Long Ke Wan) and Polaris Zawn being located in the inlet behind this.

Access

The cliffs can be approached from either Sai Wan Pavilion or the East Dam of High Island reservoir. Regardless of which start point is chosen, a long hike to Tsang Pang Kok Teng (罾棚角咀) is required. The climbs on Neputne’s Zawn all start from a large ledge at the base of the wall, although more potential exists on the walls to the left (abseil access and hanging belays required though). Access to Polaris Zawn is via a scramble down the gully at the back of the zawn to a ledge on the left wall. A 20m abseil is then required to reach the stony beach below.

The Playground is accessed by hiking to the western side of the Kei Kok Tau headland, from where a steep grassy gully leads down to sea level. The rock here is particularly poor however so its probably best not to bother…

Routes – Neptune’s Zawn

1) Sea Horse * Severe
Climb the obvious vertical crack
FA: T. Lam & M. Brown (1975)

2) Poseidon – HVS 5a
A difficult route on steadily worsening rock, with a fall near the top having serious consequences due to the poor protection. Start just left of Sea Horse and climb diagonally left across the wall and out above the sea. A difficult mantleshelf at about 20m height gains a square cut ledge, above which the climbing eases.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1975)

3) Trident * HS
Another good climb, following the faint groove right of Sea Horse.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1975)

4) Thetis – Severe
Start about 6m right of Trident at another groove, which is climbed to a grassy ledge. From the ledge, traverse right to a large block and climb over this to reach the top of the crag.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1975)

Routes – Polaris Zawn

1) Polaris ** VS 4c
Probably the best climb in the area, providing varied and interesting climbing.
Pitch 1 (4b) 12m: Climb the wall on large holds to reach the ledge.
Pitch 2 (4c) 18m: Traverse right along the ledge to a short corner capped by an overhang. Climb the corner to a rock strewn ledge. Continue left to another ledge and (old) piton belay.
Pitch 3 (4c) 30m: Climb the black slab above on small holds to a grassy terrace. From here climb the wall above on loose, dusty holds to the top.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1975)

2) Ursa Minor – S
The line of least resistance.
Pitch 1 27m: Climb the ramp to its end and then ascend the wall above, heading towards the bulge. Move left around the bulge and climb easily to a large ledge and nut belay.
Pitch 2: 30m: Climb the corner above the ledge to reach another rock strewn ledge. Continue up the shallow groove on the left on poor rock to the top of the cliff.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1976)

Routes – Poseidon’s Cave

Nothing recorded to-date but some definite potential exists.

Routes – The Playground

1) Croaker – HS
This climb tackles the obvious black slab on the right wall of the gully. Start at a large group of boulders left of a cave.
Pitch 1 25m: Climb the slab, keeping right, to gain a narrow ledge. Traverse right and follow the corner to a stance in the sentry box and piton (old) belay.
Pitch 2 14m: Move back left and continue up the slab to the top of the wall.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1975)

2) Cursor – VS 4c
Start 6m right of Croaker, just right of a chimney. Climb the chimney to a rock strewn grassy ledge. Traverse right from here to reach, and climb, a short slab. Move right around the arete and climb the wall above on poor holds.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1976)

Two other routes have also been climbed on the left wall of the gully, but the rock was exceptionally loose and dangerous so these are best avoided.

Fung Head

Potentially the most remote crags in the HKSAR, being located on the headland of Tai Long Tau in the far northeast of Sai Kung Country Park.

Access

The climbing areas at Fung’s Head are accessed by first hiking to the popular beaches at Tai Long Wan, either from Sai Wan Pavilion or by heading to Wong Shek Pier and then taking the ferry/speedboat to Chek Keng. From the northern end of the beaches, follow any one of the footpaths to the headland of Tai Long Tau. From the group of large distinctive boulders (which form a cave), follow the grassy gully down the hillside. This becomes steeper in its lower part and requires scrambling to reach the base, where there is an obvious blow hole. The climbing is located to the right of the gully base (looking out to sea).

Routes

1) Demos * VS 4c
Start just to the left of the decent gully
Pitch 1 25m: Climb the corner crack to a ledge beneath the bulge.
Pitch 2 (4c) 25m: Climb the wall on the right to round the bulge before following a leftwards trending groove up the wall above.
FA:

2) Aries * VS 4c
An exposed and poorly protected climb that starts mid-way between Demos and the blow hole.
Pitch 1 25m: Climb the steep left wall of the gully. Move left around the arete and on to the main wall before climbing up this to a large square ledge. Piton belay in a small cave.
Pitch 2 (4c) 18m: Step down and move left then up to a ledge level with the bulge of Demos. Climb up to, and to the right, to another square ledge and nut belay.
Pitch 3 13m: Climb the easy wall above until it possible to scramble to the top of the cliff.
FA:

3) Phobos – Severe
This route climbs the next corner system beyond Demos
Pitch 1 25m: Climb the chimney in the corner to the first ledge. Move right to another ledge and stance.
Pitch 2 25m: Climb the wall above to join the last pitch of Demos.
FA:

4) Titan – VS 4c
A pleasant route that wanders up the wall left of Phobos
Pitch 1 25m: Climb the wall to reach an easy ramp leading to a steep shallow groove, following this to a ledge belay.
Pitch 2 34m: Traverse left round the arete to a long narrow ledge. From the end of this climb a short wall to reach easy ground and a spike belay.
FA:

5) Astronomer’s Slab – Diff
this is the easy angled slab set at right angles to the cliff, which provides a useful means of descent to the base of the cliff.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1975)

Astronomer’s Buttress

This is the narrow left of Astronomer’s Slab. Traverse across a narrow sea swept slab (Neptune’s Crossing) yo reach the buttress – at a grade of about Severe in it’s own right.

1) Icarus VS 4b
Start in a corner about 6m up Astronomer’s slab
Pitch 1 (4b) 30m: Climb the corner for a few feet before following a series of holds out leftwards to a scoop in the wall. Move left again to a ledge and spike belay.
Pitch 2 6m: Step left and climb the short scruffy wall to easy ground above.
FA:

2) Pegasus *** VS 4c
The best route on the crag, with solid rock and good protection. Start in the middle of the buttress, beneath a right to left trending diagonal crack.
Pitch 1 (4c) 25m: Follow the crack until the wall becomes the easier option.
Pitch 2 (4c) 25m: Step right and climb the slab on good holds.
Pitch 3 13m: Climb the wall on the left to a spike belay.
FA: D. Hodgson & K. Hazelaar (1975)

3) Scorpio ** HVS 5a
Start at the sentry box on the left side of the buttress
Pitch 1 (4b) 25m: From the sentry box move up and left on good holds to reach a ledge at about 20m. Continue to a belay on a second ledge above this.
Pitch 2 (5a) 32m: Traverse right to the base of a groove, which is climbed with increasing difficulty.
FA: K. Hazelaar & D. Hodgson (1975)

4) Orion * VS 4c
An interesting and exposed climb. Start 5m left of Scorpio and just to the right of an overhang, at a patch of yellow and black rock
Pitch 1 (4c) 40m: Climb direct to a prominent groove high on the buttress. Move right to a flake, before going up and then back left on good holds. Follow a slanting groove leftwards and make an awkward move into a scoop. Climb the short wall above to a stance and piton belay.
Pitch 2: Climb the short wall above the stance and then scramble to the top of the cliff and a large spike belay.
FA: