General
A relatively accessible low angled slab with a handful of easy slab lines and a great backdrop of the HK cityscape.
Access
The easiest way to access the crag is from Sir Cecils Ride, accessing this by going to the end of Mount Butler Road, continuing along the access road to the Mount Butler Radio Receiving Station (small parking area near the end of this with space for two cars only though) and then getting on the trail proper just before the parking area (signposted). Follow the trail gently downhill for just over 5 minutes until a small but obvious dirt trail breaks off left at Grid Ref: 22.277442; 114.198207.
Follow the dirt trail through the trees, trending to the right, until you reach a small clearing with a concrete pad. Take the trail on the left side of the pad and follow this to some easy angled granite slabs. Carefully scramble down the right side of these to access the abseil stations at the top of the crag.
Routes
A low angled slab with routes between 5 m to 20 m in length and requiring up to 12 quickdraws. The crag is exposed to the full force of the sun from mid-morning onwards. Climbs are accessed via an abseil from the two uppermost anchors at the end of Routes 3 and 4.
1) Incestuous Hick * F6c
F.A. F. Haden (2020)
2) Itchy Trigger Finger Driller F4
Start up the right side of the scoop using small crimps and flakes to get established on the slab above, which is climbed up and left to a lower off adjacent to a flake line.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2020)
3) The Sound of Gunfire * F4
Start as for the previous route to gain the slab, and then follow a series of intermittent diagonal cracks to move easily up this.
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2020)
4) Conspicuous Consumption F5+
Again, follow the same start to get the slab before tackling a marginally blanker section to the right of the previous line before the angle eases and you can basically walk the final section to the lower off.
F.A. F. Haden (2020)
5) Add Ink! F4
Climb a short steep section low down to reach a sloping ledge, from which a crack is followed to reach the lower off.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
6) Daily Fruit F4
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
7) Buy It Before They ban It F4
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
8) Two Birds One Drone * F5
Bridge up the corner / groove to gain a short section of slab leading to a steeper wall. Climb this with interest before the angle eases once again and easy padding leads you to the anchor.
F.A. F. Haden, Z. Ng (2020)
9) Drilling System * F5
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2020)
10) Bomb the Base F5
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2020)
11) Aerial Reconnaissance * F5
F.A. F. Haden, D. Kwok (2020)
12) Failure of the Imagination F5
F.A. F. Haden, Z. Ng (2020)
13) Shooting Blanks F5
F.A. F. Haden, Z. Ng (2020)