It appears that someone has recently removed a number of bolt hangers and the abseiling chains from the top of the crag and many abseil stations on Lion Rock. Until further notice, climbers are advised to carry a pair of approach shoes with them and hike back down upon completion of their climb as there are currently few (no?) fixed anchors from which to secure ropes.
Hopefully common sense and normality will return to the crag soon and the perpetrators of said removal will replace the fixed equipment they’ve removed so the climbing community can continue to enjoy normal climbing conditions on this fine crag.
Dominating the skyline behind the Kowloon Peninsula, Lion Rock (so called because when viewed from certain angles the profile of the crag resembles that of a Lion) is probably Hong Kong’s best ‘mountain crag’. Although not huge, about 250ft at its tallest point, the granite cliff is perched high on a hillside well above the city, and with few other parties generally climbing there it’s easy to feel detached from the chaos of the crowds below.
From Kowloon side:
Take the MTR to Lok Fu Station and get a taxi to Lion Rock Country Park (Sze Tse San). Follow the road to the right of the park entrance gates for about 30m before heading up the hill on a well signposted footpath. Upon reaching a small shelter on the ridgeline take the upper right hand path (signposted to Lion Rock) and continue upwards. When approximately level with the toe of the crag a small dirt path breaks off right from the main track (at a small clearing in the footpath) and leads to the foot of the cliff. Approach time approx. 40 minutes.
From Sha Tin side:
Take the MTR to Sha Tin Station and get a taxi to Mong Fu Shek BBQ. From here follow the obvious footpath up the hill towards the crag. From the shelter follow the left hand path up the ridge and approach as for Kowloon side. Approach time approx. 45 minutes.
Lion Rock has two distinct faces: East and West – meaning that either sun or shade, whichever takes your fancy, can be sought throughout the day. The majority of routes are two to three pitches long and have bolt protection, although some may be quite run out over easy ground, these have been given French style sport climbing grades. Some traditional (trad) lines do still exist. Please keep them this way and avoid retro-bolting, Hong Kong has few enough trad lines as it is. These routes have been given British Trad Grades.
Download the latest PDF guide for the crag here
Smaller buttresses are also present to the left of the West Face and in the area beneath the East Face (Hind Paw Buttress).