Sok Kwu Buttress, Lamma Island
Sok Kwu Buttress is the obvious granite buttress situated above the footpath between Sok Kwu Wan and Mo Tat Wan, about half way between the two and a relatively short walk from the Sok Kwu Wan Ferry Pier. The crag was developed by Rocky Lok, Angel Liu and Tsz San Lam in early 2020.
Climbs described with French Sport Grades have bolt protection whilst those with UK Trad Grades require the use of traditional protection. See here for a general explanation of these.
Traditional climbs should be left as such and not retro-bolted.
Given the recently developed nature of this crag and the presence of loose rock in may sections, helmets are strongly advised.
Access
To access, take the ferry to Sok Kwu Wan (see timetable here) and turn left at the end of the pier, following the path to Mo Tat Wan. The crag is reached after less than 10 mins walk.
Routes
1) Quarry Story – HVS 5a
Climb the two parallel cracks to a ledge before continuing up the chimney above, being cautious of the loose block. This route has no top anchor so requires a proper traditional approach (e.g. leader and second) so you can top out and walk off to finish. Requires a set of cams up to #5 to climb comfortably.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
2) Horror Quarry – E3 6a
A trad climb up the discontinuous crack system on the left side of the face. Follow the initial crack system on the far left of the buttress to a small ledge. From here a wide crack and open face climbing leads to the top of the crag. This route has no top anchor so requires a proper traditional approach (e.g. leader and second) so you can top out and walk off to finish. Requires a full set of cams up to #6 to climb comfortably.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
3) Nose Sensation – F7a+
The obvious groove / corner system on the left of the buttress.
F.A. Angel Liu & Rocky Lok (2020)
4) Vertical Fighter – F7b
F.A. Angel Liu & Rocky Lok (2020)
5) Rush to the Sky *** F7c+
Start from the tree and then continue with hard and sustained arête climbing.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
6) Maze Runner *** F8a
A dynamic and crimps line up the overhanging groove in the middle of the face.
William Chan (2020)
7) Shadow of Mountains *** F8b
Sustained hard climbing up the right side of the face you brings you to the roof, which is tackled directly.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
P) Chasing the Shadow (Closed Project)
Please respect the time and effort of the developers and unless you have their express permission, stay off the line (and don’t tick mark the hell out of all the possible holds…)
Developers: Rocky Lok & William Chan
8) Lama Crack *** E4 6a
Awesome and sustained crack climbing to the fixed anchor. Requires a full set of cams, pref with some extra #5 and #6 to protect well. Named in memory of David Lama, e.g. not a spelling mistake 😉
F.A. William Chan (2020)
9) Rolling Stone * F7a
Thin technical climbing weaving up the wall and around overhanging sections to the right of the obvious jamming crack taken by Lama Crack.
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
10) Lonely Tree * F6c
A technical climb that may require a slightly dynamic approach for those vertically challenged. Be careful of the small tree.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
11) Sunlight Snake – F6c
A tricky, and slightly dynamic, lower section leads to easier climbing above.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
12) Dollar Bird *** F6a
A super fun route and great warm up for the more challenging routes on the crag.
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
13) Passport to Krabi ** F7a
Climb the small overhang o the right side of the crag.
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
14) Secret Garden – F6b
A slightly trick and devious line with hidden holds.
F.A. Tze San Lam
15) Beatable – F7b
A bouldery and powerful route with hard, dynamic cruxes.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)