Sok Kwu Buttress is the obvious granite buttress situated above the footpath between Sok Kwu Wan and Mo Tat Wan, about half way between the two and a relatively short walk from the Sok Kwu Wan Ferry Pier. The crag was developed by Rocky Lok, Angel Liu and Tsz San Lam in early 2020.
Climbs described with French Sport Grades have bolt protection whilst those with UK Trad Grades require the use of traditional protection. See here for a general explanation of these.
Traditional climbs should be left as such and not retro-bolted.
Given the recently developed nature of this crag and the presence of loose rock in may sections, helmets are strongly advised.
Access
To access, take the ferry to Sok Kwu Wan (see timetable here) and turn left at the end of the pier, following the path to Mo Tat Wan. The crag is reached after less than 10 mins walk.
Routes
1) Quarry Story HVS 5a
Climb the two parallel cracks to a ledge before continuing up the chimney above, being cautious of the loose block. This route has no top anchor so requires a proper traditional approach (e.g. leader and second) so you can top out and walk off to finish. Requires a set of cams up to #5 to climb comfortably.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
2) Horror Quarry E3 6a
A trad climb up the discontinuous crack system on the left side of the face. Follow the initial crack system on the far left of the buttress to a small ledge. From here a wide crack and open face climbing leads to the top of the crag. This route has no top anchor so requires a proper traditional approach (e.g. leader and second) so you can top out and walk off to finish. Requires a full set of cams up to #6 to climb comfortably.
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
3) Nose Sensation ** F7a+
Start high in the sandy gully where tenuous moves up a slopey groove lead to easier climbing and a step over the large crack/groove system to reach the main attraction above. From here follow the right slanting groove via a series of insecure bridging moves until it is possible to move out left to gain the arĆŖte and an easier finish. Low in the grade (25m, 9 Bolts).
Note: the main anchor is quite far back and will destroy your ropes if lowering from these. Descent either by lowering from the last bolt or abseiling (and cleaning) from the anchor is recommended.
F.A. Angel Liu & Rocky Lok (2020)
4) Vertical Fighter F7b
(18m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. Angel Liu & Rocky Lok (2020)
5) Rush to the Sky *** F7c
Scamper up the tree on the left side of the crag and along the branch until it it possible to pull on to the wall using the two large shot holes. Move powerfully up the arĆŖte and wall above to gain brief respite at the large flake. Make technical moves up the face right of the arĆŖte to gain the sloping ledge before continuing up the arĆŖte itself to eventually gain a good rest standing on a good jug. Technical and insecure climbing up the narrow groove above this eventually lead to a positive layback out left and easier climbing to the top of the crag. Lower off from the top of Vertical Fighter. (18m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
6) Unknown (Closed Project)
7) Maze Runner *** F7c+
A dynamic and crimps line up the overhanging groove in the middle of the face. (25m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. William Chan (2020)
8) Martial Arts Cafe (Closed Project)
Start as for Maze Runner before branching out right to the arĆŖte and, eventually, the roof and finish of Shadow of Mountains. As with all closed projects, please be respectful and stay off until the developers have bagged their ascent.
Developer: William Chan & Rocky Lok (2022)
9) Shadow of Mountains ***Ā F8a+
The king line of the crag. Sustained hard climbing up the right side of the face you brings you to the roof, which is tackled directly. (25m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
10) Chasing the Shadow (Batman Start) ** F8c
Hong Kong’s first F8c! Start by pre-clipping the first bolt and hoisting yourself up to reach the first obvious (but small) sidepull pocket crimps. Get established on these and then battle your way up the walls above. The more proper start from the ground is an open project, but is extremely morpho and likely only a feasible option for people above a certain height and with a big wingspan.
F.A. William Chan (2026)
11) Storm Shadow (Closed Project)
The line of bolts through the dark stained triangular roof immediately left of Lama Crack. Please respect the time and effort of the developers and unless you have their express permission, stay off the line.
Note: the topo for the following routes in the 2023 printed guidebook is inaccurate, with the route numbers all out by one (i.e. Route 10 on the topo is actually the line for Route 11 etc.). The lines and descriptions provided below give a clearer and correct link between description and line taken.
12) Lama Crack *** E4 6a
Awesome and sustained crack climbing to the fixed anchor. Requires a full set of cams, pref with some extra #5 and #6 to protect well. Named in memory of David Lama, e.g. not a spelling mistake š
F.A. William Chan (2020)
13) Rolling Stone * F7a
Thin technical climbing weaving up the wall and around overhanging sections to the right of the obvious jamming crack taken by Lama Crack, with a tricky crux right at the top. (18m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
14) Lonely Tree * F6c
A technical climb that may require a slightly dynamic approach for those vertically challenged. (18m, 8 Bolts)
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)
15) Sunlight Snake * F6c
A tricky lower section with dynamic moves through the roof leads to easier climbing above. (18m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. Tsz San Lam (2020)
16) Dollar Bird ** F6a
A fun route and great warm up for the more challenging routes on the crag. (16m, 5 Bolts)
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
17) Passport to Krabi ** F7a
A short bouldery and powerful route. Climb the left side of the overhanging wall to reach the lip, where powerful moves going right through this may bring you to the easier climbing above. (16m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. Angel Liu (2020)
18) Secret Garden – F6b
A slightly trick and devious line with hidden holds. ()15m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. Tze San Lam
19) Beatable F7b
A bouldery and powerful route with hard, dynamic cruxes. (15m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Rocky Lok (2020)