The Other Side

Impossible Dream Wall

The first clean wall you reach whilst traversing the coastline has several ‘potential’ lines on it, none of which have been climbed yet as they’re very highball (or crazy hard) and approaching solo / trad climbing territory rather than bouldering. 

1) The Awakening  V2
More of a solo than a boulder problem. Climb the obvious corner and crack.

2) The Sickle  V2
More of a solo than a boulder problem. Climb the obvious sickle shaped crack line.

3) Divergence  (Project)
In the middle of the wall is a diverging set of thin crack lines that may (or may not) offer a means of sending this highball line.

4) The Impossible Dream  (Project)
The big blank expanse of the right wall has what appears to be a conceivable line up it, at least within the upper part. The lower portion however is really rather blank, whilst the upper part is really rather high. An Impossible Dream? Time will tell…

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Warm Up Block

The block behind the Impossible Dream wall has several moderate problems on it, most of which are above poor landings that need well padding out.

1) Dancing Above the Void (sds) * V2
Sit start at the left end of the diagonal crack and then follow this all the way out right to the arête, which is then followed to the top.

2) Groove Armada (sds) * V1
Sit start in the middle of the wall, at the shallow groove. Head up and slightly right to the small overlap, before continuing directly up the blank face above.

3) Crescent Arête (sds) ** V2
Sit start cupping the arête with right hand and undercutting it low down with the left. From here, climb the arête on its left side.

4) Shoreline * V2
Climb the arête on its right hand side.

5) Charles Bronson  V1
Cos you probably have a Death Wish. The tall wall on the coastal side of the block is climbed via an assortment of cracks and flakes.

Rogue Wave Blocks

Just right of Warm Up Block and at a lower level are several wave washed faces, with a couple of easy lines on the left and a harder line (low start) on the right. As the name suggests, beware rogue waves that can give you a soaking… 

1) Perplextion (sds) * V3
Sit start at the low horizontal break and side pull. Pull up on these and then attack the wall above via small crimps to eventually gain the right end of the crack just beneath the lip of the face.

2) Paddling Pool Arête (sds) ** V1
Climb the flake line on the right arête of the face, praying no waves wash you away whilst on the start moves.

3) Levitation ** V7
Start on two small crimps at chest / head height on the left of the steep wall. Bear down hard to gain the sloping shelf and then continue through the small overlap above

4) Drowning Man * V7
Slightly further right are two adjacent crimps in the middle of the wall. Start on the these and then campus up the wall above, heading through the point of the triangle and finishing as for Rogue Wave.

5) Rogue Wave ** V3
Start using holds on the arête and a crimp on the face, both at full stretch height. Pull on to the wall / arête and then crank your way up this, praying a rogue wave doesn’t catch you out and wash you away. Could do with a si start but no-one’s been willing to risk the soaking long enough to work it yet!

Stuart Millis (and spotter) trying to avoid Rogue Waves

The Long Wall

1) Beast Maker (sds) ** V7
Start on the good undercut before powering up and left to the gritty grainy hanging flake.

2) Standing Tall ** V3
Start matched on crimps on the sloping shelf (this may require stacking of a few pads to reach) and then go direct to (and over) the lip.

3) Overjoyed ** V4
The blunt arête is climbed from a low’ish crimp on the left wall and a higher right crimp around the corner. Use these to get right hand established on the good flake before powering up for the lip. Stay left and above the arête for a ‘heart in mouth’ finish. So named as Sharon was stoked on getting her first ever FA!

4) Trepidation ** V3
The wall left of the quartz vein is climbed via positive holds and a precarious top out.

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5) In Vein * V2
Climb the quartz vein. Not as easy as it may first seem.

6) Diagonal V1
Follow the obvious diagonal crack left wards across the face.

7) Jose’s Mantle  V7
Sit start at the flake and make difficult moves to get established in the horizontal crack and then on the slab straight above. Has a bad landing and hard awkward moves.

8) Han Solo * V2
Climb (solo) the highball corner line.

Stuart Millis high on Han Solo

Semisonic Block

Undoubtedly the best bit of rock on The Otherside, with good problems and okay landings. 

1) Compression Session ** V8
Starting from a good left side pull (level with the end of the diagonal seam) and a small right, establish yourself on the overhanging face and then squeeze and slap your way up this to the jugs on the lip. Very hard and condition dependent. Rumoured to also have a lower start at a harder grade?

2) Semisonic *** V5
The best problem at The Other Side by a long way. The central line up the middle of the face is both technical and committing, with the crux right at the top. 

3) Sneaking Out ** V2
Start on the obvious central jug before moving up to good crimps and then making long reaches out right to the diagonal crack, which is followed to the top.

4) Pick and Mix * V2 to V3
Start on low crimps and then climb the right side of the block, either heading out to the arete before slapping back left to good holds, either using the big jugs behind the lip (V2), just using the lip (V3), or staying just on the crack/face itself (also V3’ish)

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Christophe Torresse on Semisonic (V5)


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Stuart Millis attempting a Compression Session

Jose’s Cubes

The last set of blocks includes a few low ball problems on the standalone cube as well as a few fun climbs on the angular wall behind this.

1) End of the Road (sds) * V1?
Climb the obvious right trending flake on the right side of the face, from a sit start.

2) Last Resort (sds) ** V4?
Start sat at the low curved crimp. Follow the flakes above this to get to the arête, before rocking round on to the slab on the left of this to finish.

3) The Otherside ** V6?
Squeeze under the low roof and, using a poor hold on the arête and crimp out left, bump you way up crimp and flakes being careful not to dab as you extract yourself from the confines of the small cav