Switchback Boulders


The bouldering areas on Tai Mo Shan are all accessed from Tai Mo Shan Road, which in itself is accessed from Route Twisk. For those approaching on public transport,  your best bet is to take the MTR to Tsuen Wan or Tsuen Wan West Stations. From either of these you can then take the #51 Lui Kung Tin Tsuen bus to Tai Mo Shan Country Park Visitor Centre. From here you’ll have to hike up Tai Mo Shan Road a fair way to reach the bouldering areas themselves. A better option is to just grab a taxi from the MTR station to avoid (or at least cut down) the amount of hiking needed.

Switchback Boulders

The Switchback Boulders are the collection of blocs located on the ridgeline to the east of the series of switchbacks in the upper portion of Tai Mo Shan Road, close to a collection of ruined old buildings.

1) Pocket Rocket * V2
Start on the two positive pockets either side of the bulging arete bounding the right side of the boulder. From these, pull up to the ledge above, finishing with big moves between positive holds (provided you hit the right spots) further to the left.

2) Perry’s Eliminate ** V4
Start on the small pocket with the right and a poor hold beneath the crack with the left. Engage maximum core tension to lock on to the wall before bumping your left hand 6 inches to gain the positive part of the crack. Now power your way between the distant, but good, holds to finish.

3) Triple Sloper ** V6
Start on the large sloping dish on the arete and follow a line of equally slopey holds up the arete to a slightly insecure slap for the top of the wall.

4) Triple Sloper (sds) *** V7
The sit start to Triple Sloper provides the more logical and complete way of attacking this great little feature.

Silvy Liu working the sds to Triple Sloper (V7/8). Photo: Stuart Millis

5) Misty Mountain Hop ** V1
The obvious right trending line of flakes provides on the easiest, and most fun, ways up the face.

6) Mini-misty Rocket ** V3
Start on the good juggy flake low down, right out left to the triangular crimp and then (in order to avoid all the suspect looking think flakey holds above, simply launch all the way to the top of the wall. Super fun!

7) Misty Rocket ** V6
Start as for ‘mini’ but skip the triangular crimp and simply jump all the way between the start and finish holds. Go double or nothing for the best chance of actually sticking the top hold!

Thomas Chu not quite sticking the dyne (that time) on Misty Rocket (V6). Photo: Stuart Millis

A selection of pics of established problems are provided below, all thanks to Royce Ferguson. More detailed topo’s to follow later on:

Canadian Crab (V0)
Hairy Lobster (V1)
Pe Arete (V2)
Big Willie Style (V6)
McNuggets (V2)
Dihedral Dyno (V5)
Quickdraw (V6)
Baby Buddha Arete (V3)
White Mule (V3 or V7 (sds))
The Funk (V4)
Hanging Tuff (V4)
Go Big and Go Home (V6)
Starships Were Made to Fly (V5)
Grunty Gary (V6)
Jabba (sds) (V7)
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