Spread over the largest area of all the boulder groups at Tsuen Wan, Radar Rocks contains a very wide variety of problem styles at nearly all grades.
Follow the approach to Ha Fa Shan until the shelter at the top of the hill. From here turn left and follow a dirt path around a small knoll. Continue along a concreted path up the gently sloping hillside. Approximately 40m past the remains of an old shelter (steel framework remaining) break right along a vague dirt track up a small hill to join the ridge above. Follow the path up the ridge a short way until several other vague dirt paths join it. Follow the right most of these paths up and over the next ridge line towards a grazed piece of hillside containing several grave sites. From beneath the graves either:
a) follow a dirt path down the hillside towards a densely vegetated stream valley. Find a path through the vegetation to the other side of the stream (hint: lower down is better) and then continue back up the hill to the Supersonic Boulder / Lonr Ranger Boulder, or:
b) head up the hill above directly to the Graveyard Boulders and, from approximately twenty metres below these, contour rightwards around the hill to the Trackside Boulders.
The large tombstone slab and bloc below offer and handful of good problems, with Tomb Raider providing a fine, technical and slightly scary classic. Sadly quite overgrown and neglected at present.
1) Bear Necessities V1
The thin wall on the left end of the tablet using the aretes on either side.
2) Tomb Raider *** V4
The left hand arête of the main wall, on its right hand side.
The middle of the face
4) Epitaph V1
The arete and crack on the right hand side of the tablet. The boulder on the right of the tablet is out of bounds.
5) Quickstep V2
Tricky moves up the lefthand side of the boulder.
6) Super Furry Animals * V5
The steep scooped wall, exiting slightly left of the vertical seam
7) Spike ** V1
Step off the large spike and reach into the hanging crack. Follow this to the top.
A small area located adjacent to the track leading between the Graveyard Boulders and Colin’s Boulders.
1) V1 *
The right arete of the wall.
2) Diamond Eye ** V4
Step off the slab to reach a good crimp with the right and poor left hand hold. Finish directly above these.
3) Diamond Eye (sds) ** V6
Sit start at the arête and make hard moves out left to gain the start holds on Diamond Eye. Finish up this.
4) Bamboo (low start) ** V6
The centre of the gently overhanging wall yields via rough crimps and slopers.
5) Bamboo (sds) ** V9
As above but starting even lower down on worse holds and making an extra desperate move to get your butt off the floor and reaching in to the start holds of Bamboo.
6) Squeeze (sds) ** V3
The short overhanging corner.
7) Haruka (sds) ** V7
Start at the arête as for Diamond Eye (sds) but instead of finishing up this, move further left from the stand start holds to join the upper part of Bamboo, which is followed to the top.
8) La Rose et le Bamboo (sds) ** V8
An even longer and harder extension to Haruka, which is climbed to the join with Bamboo but then continued even further left to finish up the crack corner of Squeeze.
9) V2 *
From good crimps, rock up to the gaping crack and finish up this.
10) Slap Happy ** V4
From a good side pull and crimp, pull through the bulge and finish direct up the wall above.
11) Jacobs Ladder (sds) ** V3
Start sat in the low groove. Reach up and right to good holds in the right trending seam. Follow this till it peters out then finish direct.
12) Groove Train (sds) ** V3
Start sat in the low groove. Reach up and right to good holds at the start of the right trending seam. Finish direct above these.
13) Trackslab – VB
Pad up the slabby left hand end of the wall.
The Portal Boulders
A collection of blocs located on the ridges behind the Lone Ranger Boulders, including a number of slightly highball classics.
1) There is no Spoon (sds) * V1
Start sat on the boulder and follow good holds up the arete to the top of the triangular face.
2) The Matrix (sds) ** V4
Start matched on the low ledge on the right side of the face. Make technical moves left to the large ledge in the middle of the face before cranking directly to the top on small holds.
3) Matrix Right (sds) * V4
As for Matrix to start but go right to get on to the arête about half way along its length. Finish up this.
4) Matrix Reloaded (sds) * V5
As for Matrix to start but go straight up the wall above the start holds, avoiding any use of the right arête.
5) Matrix High * V3
The stand start for the Matrix from the jug in the middle of the problem.
6) Reloaded (sds) ** V2
Sit start on the boulder at the left end of the face. Follow the arete rightwards until you reach the top of the triangular face, slightly trickier than it sounds due to the lack of footholds.
1) The Portal (sds) *** V5
From a sit start, follow crimps and slopers up the arete until dynamic moves lead to ‘the jug of justice’. From here continue up the tenuous and high arete above.
2) Dream Wafer ** V9
Start matched on the small crimp at chest height and then attack the wall above via a combination of small pockets, pebbles and crimps.
3) Over the Hill ** V0
Follow the line of flaky jugs up the slightly overhanging arete.
4) Under the Bridge – V1
Climb the centre of the small slabby face.
1) Lowball * VB
Follow the crack to is end and then continue up the wall, trending slightly left to a large pocket. Finish directly above this.
2) Highball *** V0
An absolute gem of a problem, all be it a little on the scary side. Start up the crack but quickly step right onto large pebbles. Continue up the wall on these, with some trepidation, to its top. Superb!
3) Lobshot ** V0
The right arete, staying on its lefthand side throughout.
4) Smash * V0
The righthand side of the arete.
5) Orange Tree Wall ** V0
The centre of the wall following an orange streak via a series of small ledges. Finish just left of the small sappling.
6) Green Crack * VB
The crack at the right hand side of the wall.
7) End Wall – VB
The narrow wall on the opposite side of the boulder to the highball face
Lone Ranger Boulders
The Lone Ranger Boulders comprise the collection of large boulders situated on the ridgeline, overlooking all other areas at Radar Rocks. This group of boulders includes a fine selection of problems at all grades.
1) Scooped Wall ** VB
The scooped wall on the back face of the boulder.
2) Into The Groove ** VB
The groove line just left of the big split.
3) Blunt Rib Wall _ V0
Somewhat of an eliminate, squeezed in between the adjacent two lines. The narrow wall between the groove and the rib.
4) Blunt Rib ** V0
The blunt rib on the lefthand side of the back face of the boulder.
5) Bloodsport * VB
The crack just down the hill from Blunt Rib.
6) Scenic Wall ** V0
The wall just left of the crack.
1) Ramble On * VB
Amble up the righthand arête of the wall, starting from the nearby boulder.
2) Pockets of Resistance *** V2
The steep wall on small pockets and pebbles is a contender for the best problem on the boulder. A classic.
3) Impending Doom ** V3
Straight up the centre of the blank looking face via an assortment of small crimps and side pulls.
4) Hong Kong Phoey * V1
The steep left hand arete, on its righthand side.
5) Retribution Rib *** V1
Good but scary! The rib just left of the big split.
6) Ping Pong ** V2
The slabby wall just left of the arete.
7) Phantom Pregnancy *** V3
A hard start is followed by a scary finish. The righthand side of the arete.
8) Abortion (sds) *** V6
Sit start using the vertical side pull for the left and a poor hold on the arete out right. Make powerful moves up from these to gain the start of Phantom Pregnancy, which is followed to the top.
9) High Silver *** V6
From pockets and pebbles to the right of the jugs on the arête, launch up more pockets, pebbles and crimps to climb straight up the wall right of the arête, avoiding holds on the arête itself until you reach the very large pebble near the lip.
10) Low Silver (sds) *** V8
The sit start to High Silver is both fierce and excellent. Start as for Abortion and climb through the start holds of Phantom Pregnancy to join, and finish up, High Silver.
11) Angels Wall ** V7
Start at the short vertical crack and, using pebbles and pockets to the left, climb the middle of the gently overhanging wall.
12) Snap, Cackle and Pop ** V2
The thin crack on the righthand side of the face.
1) Diamond Slab * VB
The centre of the gentle slab.
2) Elemental (sds) * V1
The overhanging side of the slabs left arete.
3) High Rise * V0
The steep, intimidating arete, on its left side.
4) Russian Roulette * V3
From the right side of the wall follow a left trending line, past a good undercut (beware – this is coming loose) to the top.
5) Mass Destruction (sds) ** V4
The short overhanging arete provides fun moves low down and a somewhat challenging finish.
6) Zig-Zag * VB
Follow the zig-zagging cracks up the short wall.
The left hand arete.
The Supersonic Bloc is one of the show pieces of Radar Rocks, if not the whole Tsuen Wan, containing a collection of highball classics in the V2 to V5 range as well as potential for some hard projects.
1) Slanting Crack – V0
The diagonal crack up the lefthand side of the slab.
2) Don’t Look Down ** V1
The centre of the slab, right of the slanting crack. It may be low in the grade but its definately scary.
3) Supersonic *** V2
A fantastic problem up the steep side of the overhanging arete. From the good jug reach up to holds in the crack on the arete. Continue past the end of the crack and, using poor holds higher up (where the arete flatten out slightly) rock over onto the slab. Amble up the slabby arete above to the top.
4) Supersonic (sds) *** V3
The sit down start from slopers low down.
5) The Lip Trip (sds) ** V4
Start as for Supersonic (sds) but instead of rocking onto the slab continue rightwards to the highest point of the overhanging wall. Finish up the crack above as for Crouching Tiger.
6) Crouching Tiger *** V6
Start with both hands in the fragile looking flake in the middle of the overhanging wall. Reach up to jam the crack in the lip and then go for the flat ledge left of this. Mantle the ledge at the lip using the crack to the right.
7) Hidden Dragon – Project
The sit start to Crouching Tiger from the good crimp low down looks just about within the realms of reality but has so far resisted all attempts.
8) Cocaine ** V1
The overhanging crack, rocking round onto the slab to finish.
9) Descent Arete – VB
The arete and wall at the back of the boulder. As the name suggests, this is also the easiest way down.
10) Blefuscu (sds) * V4
Start matched on the small ledge low down. From here work your way up and right to gain a flake on the right side of the face, which is then followed to the top.
11) Lilliputian (sds) ** V6
Sit start matched on the good ledge low down. From this, weave a technical and crimpy line up the middle of the wall.
12) Gulliver’s Travels (sds) ** V3
The left arête of the face , from a sit start using the low ledge and arête to get going.
13) Scooped Arete – V0
The arête on the righthand side of the scooped face of the boulder at the rear of Supersonic Boulder.
14) Scooped Slab – VB
The middle of the short concave slab.