General
A collection of crags on the hillsides to the north of the access road to Ma On Shan Tsuen. The Main Crag is an absolute gem, providing a collection of high friction, low to mid-grade slab climbs with a stunning backdrop. The remaining crags are most likely for the connoisseur who’s climbed everything else already and is just looking to complete his ‘tick the guidebook’ quest.
Access
Main Crag: The Main Crag has several access options. By far the best of these (unless you’re really desperate to climb the Lost Trail stuff) is to approach from the lower part of Ma On Shan Tsuen Road, taking the trail up the hill from Grid Ref 22.416439, 114.233789. This is accessed via a gate which leads you across the hillside to a trail that heads up the hill at tree tag T3087. Follow the trail up for several minutes until it breaks right within a streamline at some orange trail tags. The path then weaves its way steeply up the hill for another 10 minutes or so to bring you to the crag.
If driving, parking is available at Heng On Estate, from where you can connect to Ma On Shan Tsuen Road via a series of slope maintenance staircases and dirt trails that take you under the Expressway and then zig zag up the hill (all well marked on Hiking Trail HK app). Access is about 30 minutes from the car park.
Lost Trail & Main Crag: For those wishing to visit both sectors or those driving and looking for a parking spot (go early, these fill up fast), the alternative approach is from the BBQ area at the Ma On Shan Country Park Management Centre (Grid Ref 22.408028; 114.237179). From the back of the parking lot (which fills up very quickly so you need to be early to try and secure a spot), follow the footpath to the Ma On Shan Family Walk and proceed up the hill, following this for about 10-15 minutes until you reach a pagoda. Take to dirt trail up the hill from behind the pagoda until reaching a split in the trail, with an obvious track contouring the hillside (the Goose Valley Lost Trail). Follow the Lost Trail for about 5 minutes to reach the Lost Trail Crags, which are located immediately above the path.
To get to the main crag, continue along the path. Shortly after passing a more interesting looking buttress (not developed) an obvious trail breaks off left down the hill (red and yellow ribbons). Follow this for about 10 more minutes until the crag appears below you on the left, shortly after the trails starts to descend more steeply.
Main Crag
The main event here about and a lovely venue for a spot of pleasant slab climbing.
1) Stop the Steel * F4
The curving crack on the left of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
2) Mordor F5
The slabby wall to the right of the crack, joining for the same anchor.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
3) Dark Was the Night * F5
Climb through the small overlap low down and continue up the delightful slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
4) History of Drilling * F6a
A thin start leads to technical padding following discontinuous veins up the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
5) Unloked ** F4
Fun climbing up the prominent crack line.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
6) Rolling Train ** F5
Use a positive flake to pull through the small overlap and then continue up the vertical vein above to a technical finish.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
7) 110ML ** F4
Scramble through the bulge low down to gain the slab, which is followed to a left trending groove. Follow the groove until it is possible to step through it and up the slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
8) Forged in the Wild ** F5
A stiff pull through the roof at the start of the climb brings much more amenable, but still interesting, climbing on the slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
9) Notes from the Underground ** F5
Start up Forged in the Wild before trending right now, through the bulge and up the lovely slab above.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
10) Masters of Steel * F6c
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong (2021)
11) Song of Life * F6a
F.A. F. Haden (2021)
12) Out of Time F5
F.A. F. Haden (2021)
Lost Trail Crags
A couple of small outcrops immediately adjacent to the trail with a few easy routes between F3 to F5.
1) The Loose Goose ** F4
The right side of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong, D. Stolzner (2021)
2) Fox on the Loose * F5
Tackle the bulge just right of the bolts low down before continuing up the right side of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong, D. Stolzner (2021)
3) Random Acts of Kindness F3
I guess some people will bolt anything. The 2.5 m high arête and slabby ridge above it. Why…
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong, D. Stolzner (2021)
4) Foxes and Chickens * F4
The right side of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong, D. Stolzner (2021)
5) Loosey Goosey * F4
The left side of the slab.
F.A. F. Haden, V. Wong, D. Stolzner (2021)