Ap Lei Chau

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Download the PDF Guide here: Ap Lei Chau 2016_r1

Directions

Access to the climbing can be made on foot, or by sampan but the latter method by necessity, requires someone to speak Cantonese with the sampan operators.

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Sampan

This is the best option as it is fast and direct from the Aberdeen quayside with a journey time of approximately 10 – 15 minutes. Not all sampans have the required marine licence to operate outside the harbour area so a Cantonese speaking person will need to arrange collection and drop off times with one of the appropriately licenced sampan operators.

Call the sampan only when you are ready to be picked up. Please note that sampan operators will not wait so it is important to be on time otherwise operators will not continue to take climbers if they are inconvenienced by wasted trips outside the harbor area where they are guaranteed consistent fares.

Walking

There are two walk-in approaches however the Lee Nam Road option is certainly the better of the two.

Walking to all areas will possible when the MTR South Island Line becomes operational.

Walking Approach 1 (Lee Nam Road) – Approach time is approximately 15 -20 minutes and non-tidal. There are marine grade stainless steel ladder rungs glued in and an assortment of fixed ropes along the route.

Lee Nam Road terminates at a breakwater. Walk behind the breakwater to where it meets the cliff face and climb over onto the pebble beach. From here, follow a route that contours along the coastline to a small pebble beach, with a rope climb down and the start of an exposed traverse along the coastline. The traverse itself is straightforward for climbers however the potential for a serious or perhaps fatal fall exists in places so please exercise caution.

The path gradually reduces in elevation above sea level until the route ahead stops beneath a short wall and assortment of rope and timber lashed together to provide a ladder way. This is the first sector (Welcome Wall) and is recognized by the noticeable leaning wall left of the ladder way.

Continuing up the ladder (past 3 via ferrata ladder rungs) leads to a long, thick white rope running up a rock slope. The path curves down from the top of where the rope is anchored and a careful descent down towards a final set of via ferrata ladder rungs at a short rock step. This is the second sector (The Gallery) and continuing further down towards sea level is a wooden raised walkway that traverses beneath The Depot.

Walking Approach 2 (Ap Lei Chau Summit) – use public / private transport to Lei Tung Estate Road and locate a path that leads around behind the Ap Lei Chau Service Reservoir Playground. From behind the playground, the path steepens very quickly and a series of fixed hand lines are followed up to the summit itself. The summit itself is fairly flat so quickly leads to an equally steep descent on the other side (with fixed hand lines) down to the beach.

Fixed Protection

All routes are equipped with titanium resin bolts and lower offs consisting of 2 bolts with ‘rams horns’ attachments that enable the rope to be installed without needing to untie. A limited number of lower offs feature rappel rings that require threading.

Premium quality Hilti RE 500 epoxy resin was used to glue in all bolts resulting in fixed protection that is currently of the highest specification globally and rated for a minimum of 50 years (ETA approved epoxy resin). The lower off attachments (ram’s horns) can be removed (cut off using a cordless angle grinder or reverse hit off using a rubber hammer) once worn and easily replaced with a new unit purchased from Titan Climbing. This arrangement requires the minimum of money and technical knowledge to maintain the anchor and will provide many years of use. Technical information can be found at the supplier’s website: http://www.titanclimbing.com

Lower off use

Rams horns have only recently been introduced to Hong Kong (2015) so please review the following images to ensure correct use.

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Ap Lei Chau

This, the principle climbing area, has a good mix of hard, overhanging routes adjacent to lower grade, vertical climbs. The distinct angular nature of the rock often provides positive edges however the rock is smooth and requires good grip strength on the harder climbs. The tide can affect access to some sections of the cliff base however it is usually possible to boulder hop past submerged sections.

The climbing is described over the following ten sectors;

Welcome Wall – Short routes on the walk-in approach from Lee Nam Road.

The Gallery – Hidden micro routes on good rock with low tides required. This is an appropriate sector to develop technical skills required for accessing and climbing on sea cliffs with tidal bases.

The Depot – A concentrated collection of overhanging power routes that typically have long moves in-between good holds. The cliff base is affected by the tide. Remains shaded throughout the day during the summer, receives sun in winter.

The Fury Wall – One of the best sectors featuring a steep leaning wall with several good climbs in the low to mid F7s. Shaded throughout the day during summer and not affected by the tide.

Yellow Wall – Easier vertical lines on good rock. Remains shaded throughout the day during the summer, receives sun in winter.

Dump Wall – Short micro routes for beginners and/or quick ticks before catching the return boat.

The Den – Great overhanging lines on one side and pleasant slab routes on the other. A recommended sector that remains shaded with some routes affected by the tide.

Ocean Wall – Deep water soloing, cliff jumping and great climbing directly over the sea located inside a small cove.

Left Wall – A wide section of cliff that is short in height but high in numbers of traditionally protected routes.

The Prow – Excellent rock quality and sufficient routes for a full day of climbing.

Welcome Wall

This is the first sector encountered when approaching on foot from Lee Nam Road. Several sheltered routes that force their way through the steep upper wall and a couple of introductory climbs for beginners. Routes 1 to 3 finish at a double bolt belay high on the slab above the wall.

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  1. There’s no Mat F6b+, 15m, 6 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

Straightforward climbing leads to the technical corner, which is taken direct.

  1. Point Break F6c, 15m, 7 Bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

Technical climbing on the lower wall capped with a dyno finish!

  1. Tuff Trip F6c, 15m, 6 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

The finish is similar to a campus board session.

  1. Feudal Enterprises F4, 8m, 4 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 26/12/2015

  1. Welcome F3, 9m, 4 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

To the right of the fixed ropes is a short wall of solid rock.

  1. Barnacle Crush F6a, 7m, 4 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 28/02/2016

  1. Fish Fingers F6a, 7m, 4 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 28/02/2016

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The Gallery

The cliff base here is tidal and requires a calm sea however ledges above the waterline provide places to stack the rope and keep your feet dry.

Access is via a short abseil and it is worth bringing a separate, short rope for this reason. All routes top out to bolt belays installed in the surrounding rock. In particular, Manic Volcanic is recommended, as there are few roof climbs in Hong Kong that traverse the lip of a sea cave.

Routes 8 and 9 start from a ledge and bolt belay just above the water line.

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  1. Lean to Port F6a, 8m, 4 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok 20/12/2015

  1. Close to the Wind F6a+, 8m, 4 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel 20/12/2015

Deep water soloing these routes may seem logical however the water beneath this wall is very shallow and has submerged boulders seen only during low tide.

The Gallery – East view

  1. Plain Sailing F6a, 15m, 8 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/11/2015

  1. Manic Volcanic F6c+, 15m, 9 Bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden 01/01/2016

Taking the steepest line through the cave roof, this is an unusual kind of route to be found in Hong Kong. Despite the need for particular conditions and abseil access, this climb is well worth the effort.

  1. Lip Trip F6c, 13m, 6 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, 01/01/2016

Start as for Manic Volcanic but at a prominent jug adjacent to the third bolt, pull right out of the roof to a crux on the lip.

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  1. Promenade Facade F4, 6m, 4 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

  1. Time to Get Physical F6a, 6m, 4 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

  1. Sinking Slowly F5, 6m, 3 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje 23/08/2015

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The Depot

Partly tidal and definitely steep; The Depot hosts the hardest routes in the guide with outlying routes of interest. The collection of harder routes in the centre is likely to attract a base camp of red point attempts.

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  1. Walk the Plank F6b, 7m, 6 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/11/2015

  1. Black Watch F6c, 8m, 6 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden 22/11/2015

  1. Crimson Tide F6b+, 9m, 7 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden 28/02/2016

  1. The Rush to Crush F6a+, 6m, 5 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 26/12/2015

  1. Lean Burn F7a, 12m, 7 Bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, 25/10/2015

  1. Shark Attack F7a, 14m, 8 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 28/02/2016

Crux sequence involves shark fin like holds!

  1. Diesel Power F?, 14m, 7 Bolts **

CLOSED PROJECT being worked by Neil Carruthers

Gymnastic hard climbing that tackles the stacked roofs where the cliff is at its steepest.

  1. The Devil Wears Prana F7c, 14m, 7 Bolts **

FA: Neil Carruthers 28/02/2016

Long dynamic moves, a dyno at mid height and a powerful finish equate to a route that shorter climbers will certainly find harder.

  1. Press Gang

F7b+, 14m, 6 Bolts ***

FA: Colin Rouse 15/11/2015

Solid cranking up the leaning wall left of the corner. The crux is particularly hard and the difficulty more consistent with harder graded routes consequently those lacking reach might find the grade closer to F7c.

  1. Final Approach

F6c, 15m, 6 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 30/05/2015

Good climbing up the obvious left facing corner with a fun finish.

  1. Down by the Sea

F5+, 10m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 30/05/2015

  1. Sideshow F6a+, 10m, 5 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Eugenie Knipper, Jon Knipper, Sue Hazel 10/01/2016

Fury Wall

A compact wall of overhanging rock with some of the best routes in the guide. Generally the holds are very positive so it’s really just a matter of being able to pull!

 

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  1. Collision Course F6b+, 12m, 5 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 23/08/2015

  1. Jumping Judy F6b+, 12m, 5 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 07/06/2015

Big power moves on good holds after the second bolt.

  1. Surf to Sun F6b+ **

Pitch 1: F5, 15m, 8 bolts

Pitch 2: F6b+, 15m, 9 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/11/2015

A fun outing taking the obvious left-to-right trending ramp, concluding with an exposed traverse beneath the roof that is decidedly easier if you are short. Take note that this climb crosses all the other Fury Wall routes so avoid choosing this during busy times!

  1. Simple Face F7a, 14m, 7 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 21/10/2015

Cranking on crimps!

  1. One Ice Cream away from Happiness F7a, 14m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 21/06/2015

  1. The Fury F7a+, 17m, 9 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015

A crag test piece that forces a sustained line up the centre of the wall. An ideal training route!

  1. The Fury (extension) F7b, 20m, 11 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015

Instead of clipping the anchor, traverse right underneath the roof (bolt) until it is possible to finish as for Lifetime Piling Up.

  1. Lifetime Piling Up F7a+, 20m, 10 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden 13/12/2015

Extend the bolt located in the corner with a sling to reduce rope drag.

Do not swing around on the bolt over the roof as there are edges on the lip that may damage your rope!

  1. Direct Action F6b+, 10m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Jon Knipper 22/11/2015

  1. Layer Cake F5+, 10m, 5 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 28/02/2016

Yellow Wall

Yellow Wall features more amenable grades on vertical rock. The left side has longer climbs but the rock is distinctly jointed which can lead to occasional loose holds. The central section is shorter but the best rock quality overall.

Yellow Wall – Left side

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  1. Persistence of Vision F6b+, 12m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 08/11/2015

  1. Dry Rot F6b+, 17m, 9 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 08/11/2015

Take care around the start as the rock is heavily fractured and may have loose holds. The fourth bolt has a titanium chain extension to protect the moves onto the ramp.

  1. Man against the Sun F6c+, 14m, 7 bolts

FA: Ray Lee, Terry Chan 03/11/2015

A brutal start to pass the first bolt is capped by a technical finish.

  1. Purple Fart F6b, 14m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 13/09/2015

Stay left of the last bolt to avoid suspect rock in the corner.

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  1. And She Was F6b, 10m, 4 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

The compact looking wall is surprisingly hard.

  1. Personal Space F6a+, 11m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

A titanium chain extension exists on the penultimate bolt.

  1. The Wrecking Crew F6a, 9m, 5 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

  1. Wrecking F6a+, 9m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

Yellow Wall – Right Side

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  1. Bristol Fashion F6b+, 10m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Terry Chan, Ray Lee 23/08/2015

Technical, thin moves to become established on the obvious ramp line.

  1. The Corner F6a, 10m, 4 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

  1. Avon Calling F4, 10m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/07/2015

There are three climbs in-between the right side of Yellow wall and Dump Wall

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  1. Everyman’s an Island F5, 12m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje, Terry Chan, Ray Lee 23/08/2015 

  1. Look Left, Ignore the Right F3, 10m, 5 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

The rock is somewhat weak just below the anchor.

  1. Fishy Business F5, 10m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

Dump Wall

Principally featuring short, low grade climbs for beginners and the odd line to test those searching for difficulty. Although short in height, these routes are surprisingly technical and equally easy to fall off!

Dump Wall – Left Side

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  1. Bolting in a Blizzard F6a, 6m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

  1. Comfortably Numb F6a, 6m, 5 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 14/02/2016

Dump Wall – Mid Section

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  1. Parental Guidance F3, 8m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

  1. Sailing Close to the Wind F5, 7m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

  1. Fresh off the Boat F4, 7m, 4 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

  1. Ten Minutes F6b, 8m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

Technical climbing leads to a tricky finish.

  1. Use Your Groove F6a, 7m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

  1. Edge Control F6c, 8m, 5 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 25/10/2015

Strenuous climbing over the roof!

Dump Wall – Right Side

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  1. Sidekick F6a+, 8m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee, Terry Chan 23/08/2015

  1. Little Roof F6a+, 8m, 3 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

  1. No Peacock Strut F6c+, 8m, 4 bolts *

FA: Donna Kwok, Francis Haden 02/08/2015

The likely scene of many failed on sight attempts.

  1. Beach and Bosch F6b+, 8m, 4 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 02/08/2015

The Den

Tucked away from the main areas and in the shade are several excellent routes within a small sea cave. These routes are recommended.

Walk from the main wall towards the beach in the direction of Ap Lei Pai. Once on the beach, walk around to the left (in the direction of Aberdeen) and after 2 minutes, the opening of the cave will be seen on your left.

Routes 69 to 72 are unfortunately affected by the tide (particularly 70 to 72) and are good routes so it is worth checking the tide times (and levels) at the following website (Quarry Bay): http://www.hko.gov.hk/tide/eQUBtide.htm

Tide levels do not affect the other routes, and the rock dries out faster here than for other sectors.

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The Den

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  1. Den of Iniquity F6b+, 6m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 10/01/2016

  1. Pocari Shake F6b+, 6m, 4 bolts

FA: Francis Haden 10/01/2016

  1. Wake Turbulence F6b+, 9m, 5 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

Fun cranking through the bulges on positive holds to a lower off beneath the roof.

  1. Pai Topping F7c? 14m, 7 bolts *

FA: Open Project

Saunter up route 66 to the anchor beneath the roof and extend one of the bolts with a sling. Reach out over the lip and clip a bolt overhead then force a rock over to become established on the headwall. A final few moves gain an anchor above.

  1. Cave Rave F7a, 14m, 7 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King 13/09/2015

Sustained climbing leads to a nicely positioned finish.

  1. Once In A Lifetime F6b+, 14m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

Good climbing up the overhanging corner.

  1. Keel Thin F7a, 14m, 5 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

  1. Splash and Dash F6a+, 10m, 4 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

  1. Splash Down F6a+, 10m, 5 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 17/01/2015

The Den – South View

Good quality slab routes that provide a contrast to the adjacent, overhanging climbs opposite.

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  1. Costa Del Chau F5, 12m, 5 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

  1. Of Cave and Country F4, 12m, 4 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

  1. Bedrock F6a, 13m, 4 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

  1. Sanctuary F5+, 15m, 5 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

  1. Caving in Daylight F4, 15m, 6 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak 13/09/2015

Climb left of the bolts towards the top to avoid the corner where the rock quality reduces in quality.

Ap Lei Pai

The Ap Lei Pai peninsula can be conveniently accessed by sampan (15 minutes) or by walking in from either of the Ap Lei Chau approaches (45 minutes from Lee Nam Road). The rock quality is very good and there is a choice of either traditional, or bolt, protected climbing. Three sectors have been developed;

Ocean Wall – Steep sport climbing on a leaning wall located inside a hidden cove.

Left Wall – Traditionally protected climbing on a short, wide wall to the left of the light beacon.

The Prow – Sport climbing on a distinct buttress of rock to the right of the light beacon.

Ocean Wall

This sector offers fantastic overhanging climbing on good rock in an atmospheric setting. Deep water soloing and jumping off the ramp into the sea is possible with an easy exit at the base of the ramp. This wall is often dry when other sectors are wet following poor weather and if you want hard overhanging F6 grade sport routes then this is the sector for you!

From the sampan drop off point for Ap Lei Chau, head left (facing in) and walk approximately 5 minutes contouring the water line with Aberdeen behind you. Most climbs start from the obvious sloping ramp and this is gained by abseiling in. Scrambling down to a ledge just above the water line accesses the remaining climbs that are closer to Ocean Park.

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  1. Ocean Park F5+, 14m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/03/2016

Basically a warm-up route, the rock is weak towards the top on the left. Step right at the top onto the wall below the anchor.

  1. Ocean Endeavour F6c+, 14m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016

There is a chain extension on the penultimate bolt.

  1. Ocean Pike F6c, 12m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016

Fantastic climbing on positive holds but no peeking on the abseil if you want a flash!

  1. Marine Interdiction F7a / 7a+, 12m, 7 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 19/03/2016

From the big jug on Ocean’s 3, blast out left and boulder your way up the wall via series of powerful extended moves.

  1. Ocean’s 3 F6c, 12m, 6 bolts ***

FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

One of the best climbs on the wall.

  1. Cruise Control F6c+, 14m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 13/03/2016

Great, sustained climbing on good holds.

  1. Coast to Coast F6b+, 17m, 7 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 19/03/2016

  1. Immersed F6b+, 12m, 6 bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

  1. Free Admission F5, 14m, 7 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Darian Chan 13/03/2016

Follow the groove of route 84 to the roof, move right and cross over Immersed to exit as for Ocean Lark.

  1. Ocean Lark F5, 7m, 6 bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

  1. A Drop in the Ocean F5, 6m, 6 bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 21/02/2016

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Left Wall

Short routes on the wide section of wall situated left of the light beacon and jetty. The majority of these routes can be protected traditionally so only belay bolts were installed on the cliff top above. This is essentially a traditionally protected sector however ‘Gunpowder’ stands out as a test piece of the wall for sport and ‘Tuff Love’ for traditional climbing.

The traditionally protected routes are very enjoyable and provide one of the very few venues in Hong Kong where sufficient routes exist in one location to provide more than a full day of traditionally protected climbing. A full range of nuts and a rack of cams are needed. To rig belays, simply equalize a lower point from the resin bolt belays using slings and either top rope consecutive climbers or lower from the slings to remove your gear. The slings can be easily recovered towards the end of your day by walking around to the top or shifted across to the next set of bolts when climbing adjacent lines.

The rock quality is excellent and whilst wishing this area was higher, the moves encountered make up for the lack of height. The concentration of traditionally protected routes, uncommon for Hong Kong, coupled with the added convenience of bolt belays placed along the cliff top, facilitate the climbing of many routes in one day and with the sport routes, provide plenty of climbing for repeat visits.

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Left Wall

  1. Gunpowder F6c+, 8m, 4 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

Blast up the steep leaning wall left of the arête to a lower off.

  1. Lean too VS 4b, 8m *

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Start just right of the arête. Climb onto the ledge; place a good cam and step left then move up to a series of overlaps. Pull directly over using a good jug out left and gain the top

  1. Starboard Side HS 4b, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

  1. Tuff Love E2 5c, 8m **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015

The prominent overhanging groove is an exercise in placing gear whilst trying not to fall off! Force entry to the groove then battle your way to the top.

  1. Crab Walk HVS 5a, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Start below a small corner. Awkward moves left gain entry to the corner above and flake line. A small cam protects the exit.

  1. Flake Away E1 5b, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015

A large cam protects moves onto the ledge, arrange gear then follow the vertical crack above.

  1. Crack Attack VS 4c, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

The vertical crack.

  1. Cream Pai HVS 5b, 8m **

FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Great climbing, good gear and a challenging finish.

  1. Tuff Enough? E1 5b, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

Start left of the mid height roof. Climb up into a small niche and arrange gear. Pull out on the right and follow a thin crack, with a testing exit. Sufficient gear exists however it is awkward to place on lead.

  1. Sulphur Shuffle F6a, 8m, 4 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

  1. Left Wall F5, 8m, 3 Bolts

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

  1. Rough and Tuff HS 4a, 8m

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015

The corner line.

  1. Do I Get Vouchers With This? E1 5a, 8m

FA: Francis Haden 16/03/2015

Looks sketchy and it is! Gear can be awkward to place.

  1. Ships That Pass All Day and Night HVS 5a, 8m

FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015

Start below the blocky arête. A medium cam protects the start as you climb the arête from the left hand side to a rest point at mid height. Arrange gear and finish direct.

  1. Down by the Sea HS 4b, 8m

FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015

The obvious curved crack.

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The Prow

The distinct leaning section of wall located right of the light beacon and jetty. Gently overhanging and nicely featured rock that is a real pleasure to climb on. All routes are equipped with lower offs. Safe access into the sea that is easy for summer swimming.

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  1. Siren Call F5, 11m, 4 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

  1. Bullet Tuff F6a+, 12m, 5 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Nicely sustained and with great holds.

  1. All to Port F6b, 12m, 5 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Reasonable climbing leads into the left facing groove and the crux to finish.

  1. The Prow F6b+, 12m, 5 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 08/03/2015

Taking the nose of the wall direct on good holds that lead into the shared undercut rest of All to Port. From the rest blast out right to a good hold beneath the last bolt. From here final moves gain the anchor.

  1. Dragging Anchor F6b, 12m, 5 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

  1. Draggin’ Along F6b+, 12m, 5 Bolts **

FA: Francis Haden 08/03/2015

Big moves through the stacked roofs low down lead to a crux finish on crimps.

  1. The Drilling Fields F4, 9m, 4 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

  1. Sideshow F5, 12m, 6 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

  1. Exit Right F5, 12m, 5 Bolts *

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

Screen Shot 2016-04-02 at 8.43.37 PM

 

 

 

 

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