The crags at Ap Lei Chau are best approached from the end of Lee Nam Road, which can be reached relatively easily either on foot or by taxi from South Horizons MTR station.
From the end of the road, follow the little alley on the left along the side of the building, staying right to some steps that allow you to climb over the wall. After this follow a via ferrata like trail that contours along the coastline via a combination of scrambling, wooden planks, old boat ropes and even the odd steel ladder. The difficulty of this and the need tom use the above features varies depending on the tide.
This trail will eventually lead to Welcome Wall and, after a short scramble descent, the boardwalk beneath The Depot. Other areas at Ap Lei Chau are reached by scrambling along the coastline between here and the small beach connecting to Ap Lei Pai. The crags on Ap Lei Phi (excluding Ocean Wall) are reached via the obvious dirt trail leaving the right side of the beach.
It is also possible to reaches beach by hiking over the hill from Lei Tung Estate, but seriously, why would you when there’s a quicker less strenuous option available… A third option to get here is to take a Sampan from Aberdeen Harbour.
A PDF guide for the entire crag is available for the crags here
(suggest print as multiple sheets per A4 page for best viewing).
The crags on Ap Lei Chau offer a diverse mix of climbing style, from the short gym like routes of The Depot, longer sustained face climbing on The Fury Wall, to the short beginner friendly routes on Yellow Wall and Dump Wall. A few words of warning when climbing here however:
- Many of the crags are affected by the tide so time your visit to low tide whenever possible; and
- Rock fall from the upper cliffs seem to happen quite frequently and its not uncommon to see new large blocks lying at the base of the crags, especially around Yellow Wall and Dump Wall. If you see these, be careful when climbing any nearby routes as loose rock may bee an issue. Helmets are recommended in these areas.
A couple of short routes on the first wall reached.
A handful of routes ninth small zawn just beyond Welcome Wall. Most routes affected by the tide and required abseil access to hanging stances.
This crag is basically like a modern bouldering gym on steroids. Steep, powerful routes on (generally) positive holds. Partially tidal on the left side.
The Fury Wall
Quality face climbing up a sustained steep face providing some of the best routes at this area.
A mix of short slabby routes and steeper, longer lines up prominent features provides a good selection of routes at moderate grades.
Short (very short) climbs up the slightly scrappy walls on the right side of the cliffs as they descend in height.
A combination of steep lines on the right and slab lines on the left provides a well shaded area to keep you busy. Some lines affected by the tide.
A diverse set of crags offering short trad routes, steeper sea cliff climbs and even a handful of Deep Water Solo’s.
The small cover on the NE tip of the island offers a variety of styles for mid-grade climbs, coupled with some additional potential for deep water soloing of some lines and (for the fainter of heart) some smaller scale cliff jumping/swimming.
The small cove/cave on the west coast offers and handful of existing and a lot more potential for DWS routes. Water depth can be marginal for this at low tide however so a good degree of experience and caution is advised.
A long wall of short (predominantly traditionally protected) routes on compact high quality rock. With enough pads, some climbs could even be treated as high ball boulder problems.
A collection of high quality routes on steep rock on the buttresses at the far end of the island.