Austin Powers Crag

Approach

To get to Austin Powers Crag from the top of the initial streamline on the main approach to Central Crag make a right turn and contour the hillside a short way to reach the base of the cliff.

Central Crag

Routes

1 – Old Peak Route – F4
A nice easy route with beautiful rock.
F.A. Ed Pramuk and Peter Baer (May 2005)

2 – Mini Me – F6a
A short but fun three bolt route. Start up easy slab to the right of old peak route and find large black horn. Move up small flakes to a slightly overhanging finish.
F.A. Ed Pramuk and Jason Eng (April 2005)

3 – Mini More – F5
A small arete to the right of Mini Me is a two bolt warm up.
F.A. Ed & Phyllis (Feb 2007)

4 – Gold Member – F6a
Right of Mini Me. The standard way up keeps you on the slab till feet can span to a good slope on the overhanging right sidewall. Pull over the sloping ledge here for an awkward and exposed feeling move onto the continued overhanging wall above, were again the standard line slides right to a rest stance and easier climbing up the top of the arete to the finish above. For the keen at heart, get off the ramps and ledges sooner for a more rigorous and direct line.
F.A. Ed Pramuk (Dec 2006)

5 – Cryogeny – F7a+**
Start on the crack immediately left of the long roof and headwall. Tricky moves up the initial overhanging groove until you reach a good rest at the bottom of the overhanging arete.  Layback your way up this (crux) until a mantle leads to a further rest at the point where the route meets with Gold Member. From here, follow the left curving edge of the wall on good hand holds but poor feet until you reach the belay.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (May 2011)

6 – Number One – F6c**
Start on the left side of the buttress, as for Cryogeny. Follow the tricky moves on this up the bulging groove until you reach the third bolt.  From here make tenuous moves out right onto the ledge and a good rest at the horizontal crack on the headwall. Gain your composure here before launching up and over the lip above on small edges (if you can find them) before mantling on to the slab above. Finish up this.
Initiated by Paul Collis & Dan Hannah. Finished and F.A. Laurent Jacob (May 2011)

7 – Defroster – F7c+**
Start just right of Number one with a dynamic crux on the second bolt. Then move diagonally right before pulling up onto the final wall above ending with ultimate efforts.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (Dec 2011)

8 – Super Spy – F7a+ **
Start just right of the centre of the wall, at the point where a shallow groove is apparent just above the lip of the roof.  Pull through the roof using small laybacks in the groove and a positive crimp out right, making a dynamic move to reach good holds out right. From these jugs, move back left slightly and finish directly up the wall above on small knobbles until a delicate mantle over the lip brings respite.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (26 June 2011)

9 – Dr Evil – F6c+
Start at very base of the crag and climb up the easy moss covered slab to reach good holds on the right end of the roof.  Reach through the roof to get the positive crimp above and then stretch, launch or levitate your way up to the positive flake out right (the small will find this rather hard) and jugs above.  Continue up the wall above, with the aid of good holds on the arete, until it is possible to trend back left to the obvious hanging flake. Finish up this.
F.A. Tom Chew (15 May 2007)

10 – Shagadelic – F4
Starts right of the wide roof to the right of Dr. Evil up easy steps till a tentative move left establishing oneself on the ramp. Over the top of this onto gently sloped slab with a few interesting moves to anchor near Gold Member.
F.A. Ed Pramuk and Phyllis (Dec 2006)

11 – Yeah baby – F6a+ **
An interesting route up the wall and slab to the right of the main buttress. Start up the broken slab to reach the groove in the steep wall above. Follow this until a tricky mantle gains access to the slab above.  Now the fun begins as you smear your way delicately up this, praying that friction doesn’t give ut on you until you’ve clipped the anchor.
F.A. Ed Pramuk (April 2007)

11a – Central on Central – F4
Climb the wall and slab to the left of Yeah Baby to finish at the same anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden and Donna Kwok  (June 2013)

12 – Fat Bastard – F5

13 – Do I make You Horny?
9m – Bulge start through interesting moves (for short people), then that’s it. Climb easily to belay off of tree. Almost a boulder problem.
F.A. Ed and Phyllis (April 2007)

14 – International Man of Mystery – F4a
17m –Easy route for beginners on right hand side of crag.
F.A. Phyllis Hsia (April 2007)

15 – Vulcan Probe – F6a
24m* – Very popular route from its onset just right of Yea Baby! climbs easy slab to bulge with interesting moves over the top with great hand pocket just when you crave it most. Easier climbing above with some worthy single moves if easiest route is avoided. Alternative lines over the bulge can be climbed on either side sharing same bolts.
F.A. Tom Chew and Ed Pramuk (March 2007)

16 – Feeling Groovy – F4
23m* – Most prominent traditional line right in the middle of this bulgy section of the lower crag. Very fun opening moves into layback on crack, then easier climbing above, with some run-outs especially in upper portion. Optional finish at tree (halfway), or climb all the way to bolted anchor with longer runout.
F.A. Ed Pramuk & Phyllis Hsia (2007) – retro-bolted by mistake in June 2013 

One response to “Austin Powers Crag

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