Forgotten Buttress

Approach

Central Crag

The best (safest) approach to Forgotten Buttress is to scramble up the gully at the right side of Soho Crag an then continue across right to the big easy angled slab. Continue up this until you reach Mid-Levels Crag. Pass beneath this and then scramble up the left side of the crag before traversing across to the base of Forgotten Buttress.

Routes

Routes are described left to right.

1 – iCarumba – F6b*
Climb the slabby corner system at the left side of the crag until it is possible to pull into the vertical crag. Ascend this tentatively to reach overlaps high up. Tricky moves through this bring the anchors and lower off.
F.A. Tom Chew and Andrew Irwin (May 2006)

2 – Backyard- F7b+***
A superb climb up the blank looking face. Start up the corner as for iCaramba until it is possible to step out on to the face using small footholds and even smaller crimps. With luck a hard move up and right brings more positive holds and a short respite for the fingers (Note: those shorter than about 5’10” will find this hard for F7b+ but, hey ho, such is life…). Continue up the wall above via flakes and crimps to join iCaramba at the overlap. Finish as for this.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)

Neil

3 – Local Spirits – F8b ***
A stunning and desperate climb up the right side of the face. Climb the short groove to a large slopey jug. Launch up the face above via small crimps and flakes to reach a brief ‘rest’ at a good undercut and prepare yourself as the crux is still to come. Continue up the wall on tiny crimps until dynamic moves bring the top of the wall.
F.A. Nikolai Ng (2013)
Equipped by Laurent Jacob, who unfortunately had to leave HK before getting the send.

LocalSpirits

4 – Alliance – F8a***
Little in the way of independent climbing, combining the bottom of the Laurent’s Project and the top of Backyard, but a worthwhile addition none the less. Climb the short steep groove to the slopey jug and a brief rest. Continue up the wall above using small crimps and flakes to reach a positive undercut/sidepull. Launch left from here via small sidepulls and crimps to join the upper part of Backyard. Finish as for that route.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

5 – Wife on Vacation – F6b
The crack system separating the two halves of Forgotten Buttress involves interesting climbing in the lower half followed by more amenable moves in the top half. Awkward start.
F.A. GianFranco Bigazzi (April 2006)


5a – Dan Pai Dong – F6c
Follow the crack of Wife on Vacation until level with the overhang on the buttress to the right. From here move right and pull through the roof to finish as for La Dolce Vita.
F.A. Daniel Hannah and Ed Pramuk

6 – Human Condition – F7b+*
The slab to right of Wife on Vacation yields only to immaculate technique, strong fingers and the ability to levitate up using miniscule footholds. Desperate moves on small foot holds and sidepulls low down eventually lead to more user friendly holds in the upper part of the slab. These in turn lead to a good rest beneath the overhang and head wall. Pull through the roof on good holds before trending up and left using holds on the wall and arete to reach the top of the headwall.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (Nov 2011)

7 – La Dolce Vita – F6c***
One of the best routes of its grade at Central Crag (or indeed, in Hong Kong). Start in the centre of the slab, about 3 m left of the large concrete buttress. Delicately climb up the bulging slab (avoiding the concrete block and metal stubbs) to reach good undercut holds and steeper walls above. From here you can either continue directly up the steep wall using well spaced crimps or scamper off right and follow the crack and flake line. Either approach leads to a small ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Rest well before launching through the roof and establishing yourself on the wall above. Climb this, trending up and right, to reach the anchor at its top.
F.A. Alberto Cipriani and Gianfranco Bigazzi (2011)

8 – La Dolce Vita (Left) – F7a**
Follow Dolce Vita until you’ve pulled through the roof and are established on the headwall. Finish up and left as for Human Condition.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)

9 – Vita Dura – F7c+**
Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Good holds lead through the small overhanging section and to the bottom of the steep arete. This feature is followed either through delicate palming up the arete itself or via steep dynamic moves up the arete and wall to the left. Either way, initial hard moves lead to a more relaxing finish.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)

10 – Sunny Side – F6a+**
Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. From here move around the corner in order to access the slabby wall above. Climb this using cracks and crimps to reach the top of the buttress.
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2011)

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