Left Wall

ApLeiPaiCrags

Left Wall

This collection of high quality, but somewhat short, traditional climbs gives you a good excuse to dust off the trad rack and try and remember how to place your own protection for a change. Most routes have convenient bolt belays set back just beyond the top of the routes.

Left Wall (1)-01

1 – Gunpowder F6c+, 8m, 4 Bolts **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
Blast up the steep leaning wall left of the arête to a lower off.

2 – Lean too VS 4b, 8m *
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Start just right of the arête. Climb onto the ledge; place a good cam and step left then move up to a series of overlaps. Pull directly over using a good jug out left and gain the top

3 – Starboard Side HS 4b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015

4 – Tuff Love E2 5c, 8m **
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
The prominent overhanging groove is an exercise in placing gear whilst trying not to fall off! Force entry to the groove then battle your way to the top.

5 – Crab Walk HVS 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Start below a small corner. Awkward moves left gain entry to the corner above and flake line. A small cam protects the exit.

6 – Flake Away E1 5b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
A large cam protects moves onto the ledge, arrange gear then follow the vertical crack above.

7 – Crack Attack VS 4c, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
The vertical crack.

8 – Cream Pai HVS 5b, 8m **
FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee 08/03/2015
Great climbing, good gear and a challenging finish.

9 – Tuff Enough? E1 5b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015
Start left of the mid height roof. Climb up into a small niche and arrange gear. Pull out on the right and follow a thin crack, with a testing exit. Sufficient gear exists however it is awkward to place on lead.

Left Wall 2-01

10 – Sulphur Shuffle F6a, 8m, 4 Bolts *
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

11 – Left Wall F5, 8m, 3 Bolts
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 22/03/2015

12 – Rough and Tuff HS 4a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 15/03/2015
The corner line.

13 – Do I Get Vouchers With This? E1 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 16/03/2015
Looks sketchy and it is! Gear can be awkward to place.

14 – Ships That Pass All Day and Night HVS 5a, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015
Start below the blocky arête. A medium cam protects the start as you climb the arête from the left hand side to a rest point at mid height. Arrange gear and finish direct.

15 – Down by the Sea HS 4b, 8m
FA: Francis Haden 15/03/2015
The obvious curved crack.

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