Behind the bus stop, on the left of the roundabout, is a slightly overgrown footpath. Follow this down to a small beach and the scramble rightwards around the coastline. A degree of caution is required for this approach as most of the coastline is formed of slabs dipping into the sea.
If no security guard is present at the Private Road an easier approach along this, and then down a slope just beyond the Satellite Station, is possible.
The Pier Boulders
Start at the left end of the block and reach for good crimps on a flake. Top out above these.
(2) V1 *
The central crack line has a slightly insecure feel to it.
(3) V2 **
Thunderbird (sds). Start on good undercuts beneath the arete and slap you way up this, using the flake to the right and crack to the left.
(4) V1 *
Follow the corner / groove, being wary of a loose looking block high up.
(5) V6 * The Mitchtrix (sds)
Start sitting beneath a thin flake line. Slap your way up this, easier said than done, before reaching out right to finish on the slab.
(6) V4 * (sds)
Traverse the sloping lip on the short wall, make a hard move round the arete and finish up the slab.
(7) VB *
The short face at the right end of the wall is climbed on good, but small, flakes.
(8) VB *
The slabby groove / corner.
(9) V1 ***
Climb the arete to the left of the groove, on its left side, with thin moves near the top.
(10) V1 *** The Mentalist
Follow a series of thin horizontal breaks up the right side of the big wall.
(1) V1 * The Flake
Follow the hanging flake to a precarious finish.
(2) V2 *
Start beneath the roof, at good holds on the lip of the right end of the lower boulder. Traverse the lip / crack leftwards to finish above the arete.
(3) V4 *** (sds)
An extension of Problem 2. Start sat on a boulder in the depths of the roof. Traverse the crack / lip between the boulders, with difficult moves round the arete, to join and finish up Problem 2.
(4) V5 * Patina
Follow a line of thin crimps to gain the break at the roof. Drop off or finish along the break.
(5) V3 *** Geoffs Arete
The excellent left arete of the boulder eases in difficulty after a thin start.
(6) V3 *** Breach of the Peace
The slabby right arete of the face gives one of the best problems at Chung Hom Kok. Delicate smearing may or may not lead to the top.
(7) VB *
The left arete of the face.
(1) V6 * Mistress of the Universe (sds)
Sit start at a reasonable side pull. From here use power and technical wizardry to climb the overhanging arete above .
(1a) V3 * Masters of the Universe (sds)
Start matched on the slopey rail. Make a high step and rock out left to a good side pull. Finish directly above.
(2) V4 ** The Power of Greyskull (sds)
Undercut your way up the slanting crack / flake to gain the hanging slab above.
(2a) V7 * Heman (sds)
Powerfully slap your way up the right side of the crack before making desperate moves up and onto the slab above.
Odds & Sods Block
(1) V5 ** Mr Fantastic
Start on the right side of the sloping shelf. Make powerful moves left along this to gain the blunt nose. Throw up a high right foot and make a committing mantel / rock over onto the slab above.
(1) VB *
In the centre of the wall is a flake. Pleasant moves up this bring the top.
(2) VB * (sds)
The angular arete of the lower block.
This is the boulder that spawned all other boulders. Its huge, so huge in fact that there’s not a single line up it yet. Some small one move wonder problems have been climbed on the flake in the middle of the overhanging face and potential exists for a few short problems up a crack and the arete left of this but, other than these, i’d recommend anyone intent on trying to climb it bring a rope and learn to defy the laws of gravity!
The Jumper Area
(1) V2 *** The Jumper
Success on the left arete of the face requires a slightly dynamic approach.
(2) VB *** Groove and Flake
The left slanting groove line provides a fine, if a little too short lived, problem.
(3) V3 ** Short Slab
The short slab at the right side of the face.
A big storm in 2008 managed to erode a significant area at the base of the concrete access road, leaving a newly exposed wall of granite in the area just off to the right of the Jumper Block. Three problems have currently been recorded in this area.
(1) V2 *
Start just left of the centre of the wall. Start on crimps for L and R hands with L foot smear. Move up on crimps to reach the side-pull for the right hand near the top, and use this to finish precariously.
(2) V3 **
Start in the shallow groove below the highest part of the wall. Use the flat hold to move up to R and L hand crimps, then make a large rockover onto your left foot onto the large flat hold, to reach better holds below the top. Finish easily.
Follow the diagonal crack at the right hand edge of the wall to the top.
(1) V6/7 *** The Perfect Traverse (sds)
Start sat on a boulder at the left side of the sloping lip. Slap your way along this to a dauntingly thin finish up the blunt arete.
(2) V6 * Destructive Tendencies (sds)
Crawl into the small cave beneath the crack and then thugishly fight your way back out. Taping up is highly recommended in order to preserve any degree of skin cover on your hands.
(3) V8 *** Dominatrix (sds)
Follow good crimps up the arete until it is possible to make a very big move up and right to a distant, yet positive, hold.
(4) V6 ** Some Like it Rough (sds)
Follow the good crimps on the arete to the rounded lip. From here make a thin traverse left to the edge of the boulder and finish direct.
(1) V1 *** Cure for a Sick Mind
The short hanging flake leads to a slopey top out.
(2) V2 *** Virtual Insanity
Start stood on the pointy boulder opposite the large juggy flake. Make a leap of faith across the void to, hopefully, latch the flake itself. Finish easily above.
Death Metal Area
(1) VB *** Desiccation
Follow the line of broken crack up the short wall
(2) V1 * (sds)
Climb the short slightly overhanging arete, using some of the cracks and jugs on its right side.
(3) V6 *** Inseamnia
Start on the sloping lip and, with great difficulty, get established in the scope / seam above. Only one move but more physically draining than climbing a route!
(3a) V7 *** Inseamnia Low
Start matched in the scoop beneath the groove and then move into Inseamnia.
(4) V3 *** Death Metal (sds)
From a sit start follow the overhanging finger crack through the lip to a strenuous rock over / mantle to top out.