Ma Tai Boulders

General

The collection of rounded boulders in the river bed of Ma Tai Stream provide a good problems on water eroded (i.e. smooth) granite in a pleasant setting.

A draft PDF for the Ma Tai Stream area can be downloaded here.

Access

Either take the MTR to Tai Shui Hang Station (Exit B to Chevalier Garden) on the Ma On Shan Line or take a bus to Chevalier Garden Bus Terminus (Numbers 803, 85X  or 89D).

Just north of Chevalier Garden (about 150 m), an obvious single-track road breaks right and follows the drainage channel into the hillside area. Follow this track to the location of a dam at its end (just under 1 km). From here, a staircase on the left leads up the hillside a short way. At the top of the staircase, break right around the edge of the dam area until a small dirt trail leads down to the stream itself. The main wall of Ma Tai Crag should now be apparent. Rock hop your way up the stream course, sticking mostly to the boulders and jungle trails on its left hand side, until it is possible to break right level with the base of the crag. The total approach time is about 30 minutes from the MTR station.

Boulder Problems

(1) River Solo – V4

(2) Channel V4

(4) Spice Girl – V6

(5) – Spice Boy – V5

(6) X-Men – V7

(7) Endless World – V5

(8) Bear Hug – V5

(9) Piano – V3

RaymondYeap_Piano

Raymond Yeap on Piano. Photo: Rocky Lok

(10) Kung Fu (Direct) V6
Start from both hands in the undercling and go directly up, without using the arete to the right.

(11) Kung Fu V5
Start at the undercling and then climb the wall above using both crimps on the face as well as the arete to the right.

(12) Busy Corner V2

Project Wall – the wall right of Busy Corner has potential for a couple of very very hard projects.

(13) Angel’s Angle – V6

(14) Angle Direct – V2

MaTaiBBoulders5-01

(15) Beginner Arete – V0

(16) King Ghost – V3

(17) Diamond Traverse – V8

(18) Sloppy Road – V5
Climb the slopey arête/ledge from right to left

(19) Diamond Arete – V4

(20) Balance Dance – V2

(21) Super Bowl – V7

(22) Party BBQ – V2

(23) Killer Fish – V5

(24) Killer Fish (sds) – Project?

(25) Fear Wall – V3
Start on the obvious jug below the roof before moving left and climbing the face to bypass this

(26) Green Slab – V2
The left hand side of the main face of the boulder, just right of the arete

(27) Big Knife – V3
The left arete of the main wall

(28) Solomon Traverse – V4
Traverse the lip of the wall, right to left, starting n the arete and finishing up the groove.

(29) Hidden Jungle – V4
The arete, on its left side

(30) Hidden Wall – V2

31 – Amazing Movement V6

P – Project

Warning:

Almost every time i’ve visited this crag in spring / summer i’ve found a tick either on me or my clothes at some point during the day. These little critters can have some quite nasty health impacts if not dealt with properly. If you find one on yourself, don’t panic and simply follow the removal guidance linked below to take it off:

https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/removing_a_tick.html