Sea Gully

General

Tung Lung’s Sea Gully has steep face climbing on compact, featureless, walls and soaring aretes. The rubble on the gully floor gives the crag a slight quarry like feel, however, this does nothing to detract from the stunning setting of sea cliff routes a long way above the floor.

Details can be found in the Tung Lung PDF here

TungLungCrags

Its worth noting that even on days when Technical Wall is crammed with people, Sea Gully will still almost certainly be deserted.

Grade Summary - SG

Routes

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1) Slideshow – F6a
Follow the right side of the corner then stretch right across the wall at the 4th bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and climb easy ground to the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden, Dahlia Wong, Mun Yee (2017)

2) A Fixed State of Affairs – F6a
The first bolted route in the gully, located on the nose of rock to the right of the obvious corner taken by Ah Lun’s Route.
F.A. Francis Haden, Jonathan Knipper & Donna Kwok (2012)

3) Ah Lun’s Route * F6a+
Climb the obvious crack line on the right hand side of the mouth of the zawn. A stiff route for the grade. 
F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

4) YoYo Me (Unknown Australian)  F7b+
The blank wall to the left of Ah Lun’s Route has a couple of horizontal breaks splitting it but little else. However, getting between them poses a problem or two.
Bolted by Ah Lun (1995) and climbed by an unknown Australian around 1996/97.

5) Prisoner of War – F6a+
An awkward and uninspiring route up the crack and groove at the left hand side of the wall.
F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

6) New Breed ** F6b
A good, well protected, warm-up route with good rests in-between the main difficulties. Start to the left of Prisoner of War, beneath an overhanging corner at about 5m height. Pull over the starting bulge and force the technical corner above to a lie down rest on the big sloping ledge (bolt runner – long sling). Clip the bolt above and pull into a left facing groove that leads to a rest below the horizontal break. Final moves above gain good holds and the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2012)

7) New Moon – F6a
Climb the blocky wall to the left of the previous route. Beware of loose rock.
F.A. Danny Ng and Wong Yee Ping (1992)

8) Full Moon – F6a
A minor variation to the central part of New Moon.
F.A. Danny Ng and Wong Yee Ping (1992)

9) Green Corner – F5
The obvious corner
Equipped: Francis Haden (2012)

Keith Hazelaar on an early ascent of Green Corner (circa. 1974)

10) Green Slab *** F6a
A delightful climb up the slab and arete at the start of the terrace. From the small corner step left onto the slab and climb this, staying as close to the arete as possible.
F.A. Danny Ng and Soloman Lau (1992)

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The following climbs all start off the terrace that splits the face at approximately mid-height:

1) Hings Arete * F7c
Follow the line of bolts (being as there’s next to no holds to follow!) on the left hand side of the arete.
Bolted by Lau Kung Hing (2000)

2) Chime of Dog * F6c
The first of the climbs starting from the terrace which cuts across the wall at mid-height. A few hard moves up the face and past the first bolt lead to a shallow groove. Follow this and climb up the large flake before stepping right and climbing a short corner to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1990)

3) Echo of Dog *** F6c+
Follow Chime of Dog to the large flake. Head straight up from the top of the flake and climb directly through the roof above. High in the grade.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

joyeelau

Joyee Lau on Echo of Dog (F6c+). Photo: Stuart Millis

4) Lung Tsang Fu Dou *** F7b+
Start to the left of the block on Echo of Dog. Climb the wall above via laybacks and crimps to reach a small ledge, from which it is possible to get established in the crack proper. Move up good layaways in the crack before making a big reach right to side pulls (also used on Echo of Dog). From the side pulls reach up and use two small pockets in the wall above before swinging back left into the crack. Re-establish yourself in the crack (crux) and move up to where ‘Its a Sin’ joins. Finish up this.
F.A. Colin Spark and Stuart Millis (2003)

5) It’s a Sin, Steal the Sky ** F7a+
Start well to the left of Echo of Dog at a small step in the terrace. Climb up the right hand side of the large flake to good (but hollow) holds at its top. Make thin moves diagonally rightwards on small crimps and a drilled pocket before stepping into the obvious diagonal crack. Climb this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

6) Logical Progression * F7c
Climb up to the front of the wall to a large ledge. Climb the thin crack in the wall above the ledge with increasing difficulty, making use of small crimps and edges on the blank wall to the right.
Originally climbed on pre-placed gear but retro-bolted by the first ascentionist so others would actually try the climb!
F.A. Stuart Millis and Colin Spark (2001)

7) Crossroads ** F6c+
Climb the shallow groove and mantle onto the ledge. Start up the thin crack and, when possible, make a looooong stretch left into a shallow groove and follow this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

8) Epiphany *** F7c+
Climb the shallow groove to the ledge. Hand traverse left on small crimps until difficult move up bring a small pocket. Make long moves left (hard for the short) before continuing up the wall above on positive but well spaced crimps to a good, but slightly suspect feeling flake. From here a technical and insecure sequence brings the top.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2008)

Epiphany

Neil Carruthers making an early repeat of Epiphany (F7c+): Photo: Stuart Millis Collection

8a) Epiphany Direct – Open Project
The direct line up the lower wall to join Epiphany at the third bolt looks possible but has so far repelled all attempts.
Equipped by Stuart Millis in 2007

9) Uncomfortably Numb ** F7c
From the edge of the terrace traverse along the ledge until you reach a short small groove (long slings protect). Climb the thin crack via some technical and tenuous moves until you reach a reasonable rest at the foot ledge and groove half way up the wall. Compose yourself here before breaking out right from the top of the groove to join the final few moves (and crux) of Epiphany.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2012)

10) The End of the World *** F6b+
A superb climb in a stunning situation. From the end of the terrace make a short traverse left along a foot ledge. Climb a short crack to a small ledge before moving back right on to the wall and arete. Climb a short way up this before following a small groove line in the wall itself.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

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Kevin Wotherspoon high on The End of the World (F6b+). Photo: Stuart Millis

11) Ultraviolet Light My Way *** F6c+
Follow End of the World to the small ledge. From here climb the overhanging corner above, moving onto the left hand arete near its top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

12) Solomon Corner (Pitch 2) – F6a+
Climb the corner to the left of Ultraviolet, using the arete to the left in the upper section.
F.A. Solomon Lau (1995)

13) Java Jive ** F6b+
From the second bolt of Solomon Corner bridge out wide and make a big swing left using a good jug at the lip of the overhang. Follow the crack above to the anchor.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

14) Love Traffic (Pitch 2) – F6c+
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)

Under the Terrace

The following routes are all reached from the gully floor:

1) Big Cat Diary * F7a+ 
Start directly beneath the left edge of a rubble strewn ledge at mid-crag height and climb up towards this and an obvious horizontal break. Move left along the break until it is possible to launch up and back right through the headwall above.
F.A. Rocky Lok (1997)

2) The Blade *** F7a
A superb arete climb with gradually increasing difficulties all the way to the top. Start near to foot of the gully, beneath the start of Crossroads. Climb the shallow groove, using the aretes on either side, to the small overlap. Make difficult moves through this and climb the wall above to finish on the terrace.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

3) Waffer Wavers *** F7a
Another excellent slab climb up the wall around the corner to the left of the Blade. Start up the short corner to the left of the wall. As early as possible begin traversing out rightwards onto the slab itself and climb this, making occasional use of the arete, to the overlap (tread carefully as some of the thin flakes are quite friable). Make difficult moves through the overlap (crux) and climb the wall and arete above.
For those who have already climbed everything else in the Gully, it is also possible to climb this route without the arete at about F7b
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

4) Roasted Pig * F6b
Climb the obvious wide corner crack, trying not to get wedged too far inside it as you go.
F.A. Unknown

5) Heart of Grace ** F7c 
The wall to the left of Roasted Pig. Weave your way through the corners and overhangs to establish yourself on a good break half way up the wall. Traverse this to the right to a poor rest before a technical sequence leads back out left to good holds and, eventually, the top.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2008)
Equipped as an open project by Stuart Millis in between attempts on Epiphany.

6) Solomon Corner (Pitch 1) * F6c
Start up the easy angled slab, passed the start groove of Heart of Grace, until the next groove system splitting the steep wall on the right. Follow this trending right via technical moves.
F.A.  Danny Ng? (1990’s?)

7) Love Traffic (Pitch 1) – F6c
Follow the slab to about two-thirds height before breaking right and climbing a groove formed between the steep and slabby walls.
F.A.  Francis Haden & Jonathan Knipper (2012)

8) Chinafication / Cairn Slab – F4
Amble up the easy angled slab following the line of bolts.
F.A.  Francis Haden & Jonathan Knipper (2012)

Fat Slapper Wall

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The following routes are all reached from slightly further down the gully floor:

1) Cast Adrift – F6a+
Steady climbing up the arête bordering the left side of the wall. Some holds around the arête but otherwise stay on the same side as the bolts.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

2) Fat Slapper – F6c+
Technical wall climbing leads to a dynamic crux at the 4th bolt, which is passed directly with a slap for a jug on the edge of the slab above. Finish as for Flip Decision.
F.A. Francis Haden (2017)

3) Flip Decision – F5+
Chimney your way past the massive boulder to gain better holds at the base of the slab, follow the edge of wall / slab to a technical finish before the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

In order to reach the next climbs continue down the gully until it is possible to scramble rightwards to reach ledges beneath Central Slab and a big, steep wall to its righthand side.

1) Of Tide and Time  – F5
Pleasant technical climbing up the short wall and groove located on the corner seaward facing wall at the base of Sea Gully, just to the right of Truly, Madly, Deeply.
F.A. Francis Haden, Laurent Jacob & Donna Kwok (2012)

2) Truly, Madly, Deeply  – F7a
The technical hanging grove and arête right of Sea Gypsy. Climb easily to the 3rd bolt and a ledge. Pull into the groove above and improvise a dynamic, technical sequence through the bulge (crux) to a cramped rest on the right. Reach back left in an exposed position around the arête to improving holds and a brief rest. A final few moves gain the big ledge above and the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)

3) A Lost Friend – F6a+
On the right side of the wall is a hanging crack up high. This route takes a direct line upon the slab and broken wall to reach that, and then follow it to the lower off.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012) 

4) Sea Gypsy ** F6b 
This climb interconnects a series of features top the blocky wall, starting up the slab before trending left to join Catch a Falling Star by the fourth bolt, near the detached pillar and hand jamming crack.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

5) Death in the Afternoon ** F6c+ 
Start from the right side of the large belay ledge. Attach the steep lower wall before a broken section bring you to the groove line above. Follow this to the top.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012) 

6) Catch a Falling Star * F6c
Climb the last set of prominent vertical cracks and grooves on the left of the broken section of cliff, before the wall becomes blank and largely featureless .
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

7) Tung Lung Master ** F8a 
The thin crack line that splits the right side of the big wall looming above Central Slab is a technical and sustained test piece.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2017)

8) Closed Project
The wall left of Tung Lung Master is a closed project (you probably wouldn’t be able to climb it anyway)

Left Hand Side

A couple of very nice, long, routes up the most solid part of the left hand side of the gully and a route for all you contortionists out there through the cave. Be cautious if new routing either side of these routes as the rock tends to be very loose.

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Routes 1 & 2 were put up by Francis Haden around 2012 and are both relatively low grade (F5’ish). No names are known.

3) Cave Route Left ** F6a
Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Traverse left along the break and pull through the roof at its left hand end. Continue up the technical wall above to ring bolts.

4) Tai Chi ** F6a
Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Move right, avoiding the overhang, and climb the wall above to ring bolts.

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Unknown Climber on Tai Chi (F6a). Photo: Karen Chan

3) Daniels Dilemma – F7c+
A truly bizarre route through the cave at the bottom of Sea Gully. Start on the left hand wall of the cave and climb up towards its roof. Continue through the cave using as many weird and wonderful techniques as possible to exit onto the wall at its far side.

 

Some old bolted routes have also been climbed on the walls beyond the cave. However, loose rocks and old bolts mean these see little to no traffic.

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Thomas RC
Thomas RC
5 months ago

There is a nice variation to Waffer Wavers – climb it without using the arrete. Probably makes it 7b/+. Good fun on micro crimps. One of the clips becomes particularly arduous 🙂