Sea Gully

General

Tung Lung’s Sea Gully has steep face climbing on compact, featureless, walls and soaring aretes. The rubble on the gully floor gives the crag a slight quarry like feel, however, this does nothing to detract from the stunning setting of sea cliff routes a long way above the floor.

TungLungCrags

Its worth noting that even on days when Technical Wall is crammed with people, Sea Gully will still almost certainly be deserted.

Routes

Entrance Wall

Gully Entry Web

0 – Slideshow – F6a
Follow the right side of the corner then stretch right across the wall at the 4th bolt. Mantle onto the ledge and climb easy ground to the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden, Dahlia Wong, Mun Yee (2017)

1 – A Fixed State of Affairs – F6a
The first bolted route in the gully, located on the nose of rock to the right of the obvious corner taken by Ah Lun’s Route.
F.A. Francis Haden, Jonathan Knipper & Donna Kwok (2012)

2 – Ah Lun’s Route – F6a+
Climb the obvious crack line on the right hand side of the mouth of the zawn.
F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

3 – Unknown Australian – F7b (questionable grade)
The blank wall to the left of Ah Lun’s Route has a couple of horizontal breaks splitting it but little else. However, getting between them poses a problem or two.
Bolted by Ah Lun (1995) and climbed by an unknown Australian around 1996/97.

4 – Prisoner of War – F6a+
An awkward and uninspiring route up the crack and groove at the left hand side of the wall.
F.A. Ah Lun (1995)

5 – New Breed – F6b+
A good, well protected, warm-up route with good rests in-between the main difficulties. Start to the left of Prisoner of War, beneath an overhanging corner at about 5m height. Pull over the starting bulge and force the technical corner above to a lie down rest on the big sloping ledge (bolt runner – long sling). Clip the bolt above and pull into a left facing groove that leads to a rest below the horizontal break. Final moves above gain good holds and the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden & Donna Kwok (2012)

6 – New Moon – F6a
Climb the blocky wall to the left of the previous route. Beware of loose rock.
F.A. Danny Ng and Wong Yee Ping (1992)

7 – Full Moon – F6a
A minor variation to the central part of New Moon.
F.A. Danny Ng and Wong Yee Ping (1992)

8 – Green Slab – F6a***
A delightful climb up the slab and arete at the start of the terrace. From the small corner step left onto the slab and climb this, staying as close to the arete as possible.
F.A. Danny Ng and Soloman Lau (1992)

The Terrace

The following climbs all start off the terrace that splits the face at approximately mid-height:

1 – Hings Project – F7c
Follow the line of bolts (being as there’s next to no holds to follow!) on the left hand side of the arete.
Bolted by Lau Kung Hing (2000)

2 – Chime of Dog – F6c+**
The first of the climbs starting from the terrace which cuts across the wall at mid-height. A few hard moves up the face and past the first bolt lead to a shallow groove. Follow this and climb up the large flake before stepping right and climbing a short corner to the lower off.
F.A. Saito (1990)

3 – Echo of Dog – F6c+***
Follow Chime of Dog to the large flake. Head straight up from the top of the flake and climb directly through the roof above.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

4 – Lung Tsang Fu Dou – F7b+**
Start on the same block as for Echo of Dog. Swing left to good holds left of the crack. Move up to good layaways in the crack and make a big reach right to side pulls (also used on Echo of Dog) From the side pulls reach up and use two small pockets in the wall above before swinging back left into the crack. Re-establish yourself in the crack (crux) and move up to where ‘Its a Sin’ joins. Finish up this.
F.A. Colin Spark and Stuart Millis (2003)

5 – It’s a Sin, Steal the Sky – F7a+**
Start well to the left of Echo of Dog at a small step in the terrace. Climb up the right hand side of the large flake to good (but hollow) holds at its top. Make thin moves diagonally rightwards on small crimps and a drilled pocket before stepping into the obvious diagonal crack. Climb this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1994)

6 – Logical Progression – F7c*
Climb up to thefront of the wall to a large ledge. Climb the thin crack in the wall above the ledge with increasing difficulty, making use of small crimps and edges on the blank wall to the right. Originally climbed on pre-placed protection but retrobolted by the first ascentionist so others would actually try the climb!
F.A. Stuart Millis and Colin Spark (2001)

7 – Crossroads – F6c+**
Climb the shallow groove and mantle onto the ledge. Start up the thin crack and, when possible, make a looooong stretch left into a shallow groove and follow this to the top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

8 – Epiphany – F7c+***
Climb the shallow groove to the ledge. Hand traverse left on small crimps until difficult move up bring a small pocket. Make long moves left (hard for the short) before continuing up the wall above on positive but well spaced crimps to a good, but slightly suspect feeling flake. From here a technical and insecure sequence brings the top.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2008)

9 – Epiphany Direct – Open Project
The direct line up the lower wall to join Epiphany at the third bolt loks possible but has so far repelled all attempts.
Equipped by Stuart Millis in 2007

10 – Uncomfortably Numb – F7c**
From the edge of the terrace traverse along the ledge until you reach a short small groove (long slings protect). Climb the thin crack via some technical and tenuous moves until you reach a reasonable rest at the foot ledge and groove half way up the wall. Compose yourself here before breaking out right from the top of the groove to join the final few moves (and crux) of Epiphany.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2012)

11 – The End of the World – F6b+***
A superb climb in a stunning situation. From the end of the terrace make a short traverse left along a foot ledge. Climb a short crack to a small ledge before moving back right on to the wall and arete. Climb a short way up this before following a small groove line in the wall itself.
F.A. Danny Ng (1993)

12 – Ultraviolet Light My Way – F6c+***
Follow End of the World to the small ledge. From here climb the overhanging corner above, moving onto the left hand arete near its top.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

13 – Solomon Corner – F6a+
Climb the corner to the left of Ultraviolet, using the arete to the left in the upper section.
F.A. Solomon Lau (1995)

14 – Java Jive – F6b+**
From the second bolt of Solomon Corner bridge out wide and make a big swing left using a good jug at the lip of the overhang. Follow the crack above to the anchor.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

Under the Terrace

under_the_terrace

The following routes are all reached from the gully floor:

1- Big Cat Diary – F7a+
Start directly beneath the left edge of a rubble strewn ledge at mid-crag height and climb up towards this and an obvious horizontal break. Move left along the break until it is possible to launch up and back right through the headwall above.
F.A. Rocky Lok (1997)

2 – The Blade – F7a***
A superb arete climb with gradually increasing difficulties all the way to the top. Start near to foot of the gully, beneath the start of Crossroads. Climb the shallow groove, using the aretes on either side, to the small overlap. Make difficult moves through this and climb the wall above to finish on the terrace.
F.A. Danny Ng (1992)

3 – Waffer Wavers – F7a***
Another excellent slab climb up the wall around the corner to the left of the Blade. Start up the short corner to the left of the wall. As early as possible begin traversing out rightwards onto the slab itself and climb this, making occasional use of the arete, to the overlap (tread carefully as some of the thin flakes are quite friable). Make difficult moves through the overlap (crux) and climb the wall and arete above.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

4 – Roasted Pig – F6b*
Climb the obvious wide corner crack, trying not to get wedged too far inside it as you go.

5 – Heart of Grace – F7c/7c+**
The wall to the left of Roasted Pig. Weave your way through the corners and overhangs to establish yourself on a good break half way up the wall. Traverse this to the right to a poor rest before a technical sequence leads back out left to good holds and, eventually, the top.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2008) Equiped as an open project by Stuart Millis in between attepmts on Epiphany.

6 – Chinafication – F4
Amble up the easy angled slab following the line of bolts.
Equiped by Francis Haden & Jonathan Knipper (2012) but undoubtably climbed prior to this.

Fat Slapper Wall

Fat Slapper Wall

The following routes are all reached from slightly further down the gully floor:

1- Cast Adrift – F6a+
Steady climbing up the arête bordering the left side of the wall. Some holds around the arête but otherwise stay on the same side as the bolts.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

2 – Fat Slapper – F6c+
Technical wall climbing leads to a dynamic crux at the 4th bolt, which is passed directly with a slap for a jug on the edge of the slab above. Finish as for Flip Decision.
F.A. Francis Haden (2017)

3 – Flip Decision – F5+
Chimney your way past the massive boulder to gain better holds at the base of the slab, follow the edge of wall / slab to a technical finish before the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2017)

In order to reach the next climbs continue down the gully until it is possible to scrable rightwards to reach ledges beneath Central Slab and a big, steep wall to its righthand side.

under_the_terrace

1 – Of Tide and Time  – F5
Pleasant technical climbing up the short wall and groove located on the corner seaward facing wall at the base of Sea Gully, just to the right of Truly, Madly, Deeply.
F.A. Francis Haden, Laurent Jacob & Donna Kwok (2012)

2 – Truly, Madly, Deeply  – F7a
The technical hanging grove and arête right of Sea Gypsy. Climb easily to the 3rd bolt and a ledge. Pull into the groove above and improvise a dynamic, technical sequence through the bulge (crux) to a cramped rest on the right. Reach back left in an exposed position around the arête to improving holds and a brief rest. A final few moves gain the big ledge above and the anchor.
F.A. Francis Haden (2012)

3 – Sea Gypsy – F6b**
Climb the blocky wall to the right hand side of the slab.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

4 – Catch a Falling Star – F6c*
Climb up the middle of the smooth wall to the left of Sea Gypsy before joining this at the small ledge by the fourth bolt.
F.A. Danny Ng (1995)

5 – Tung Lung Master – F8a **
A thin crack line splits the right side of the big wall looming above Central Slab.
F.A. Rocky Lok (2017)

Central Slab

A single bolted route and several traditional routes up two vast, easy angled, sweeps of rock.

1 – Central Slab Corner Direct – HVS 5a, 5a
This could give a good corner climb all the way to the top of the crag for someone dedicated enough to clean all the vegetation out of the crack.

2 – Central Slab Corner – VS 5a, 4c
Pitch 1: Bridge up the wet and vegetated corner between the slab and the steep wall to the right until a good crack breaks out diagonally to the left. Follow this, with increasing difficulty, across the slab and continue up and left to a good stance by some large bushes.
Pitch 2: Climb the left hand side of the slab to its top.
F.A. J. Ward and J.F. Bunnell (1958)

3 – Dragon Power – F6a**
Pitch 1: Start just left of the corner crack and follow a faint finger crack up the slab. After approximately 5m make some thin moves up and right to join a horizontal crack. Traverse right along this a short way until another crack leads back up. Follow a relatively direct line up the slab to belay on small ledges.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab above to the lower off. Descent is by two 30m abseils
F.A. Jacky Tang (2001)

4 – Science Friction – F6b **
Climb the lower slab via flakey edges before crossing the diagonal cracks and launching up the blank slab above.
FA. Stuart Millis (2006)

5 – Central Slab – HS/VS 4c*
Pitch 1: Start in the centre of the slab and climb the crack line above, thin to start with but becoming easier as height is gained. Continue up the crack until it joins a larger crack and follow this diagonally up and left towards the arete.
Pitch 2: Move right from the belay and continue up the slab until a belay can be taken at the blocks near the top of the crag.
F.A. J. Ward and J.F. Bunnell (1958)

6 – From this Moment On – F6c
The overhanging groove on the wall between Central Slab and Great Slab, finishing at the end of Pitch 1 of Central Slab. Approach by abseil from the top of Central Slab.
FA. Danny Ng & Jacky Tang (1999)

Learning to Fly  – F6b+
Featuring an unusual combination of climbing styles, pitch 1 brings delicate slab climbing and pitch 2, a dyno! Start just left of Great Slab; a single bolt belay exists at ground level for the belayer if required.
Pitch 1: F6b – Nicely positioned climbing that follows the leftward rising line of bolts. The bolt belay is located midway along the large ledge.
Pitch 2: F6b+ – The difficulty of the crux dyno is very much subject to your height! Clip the first bolt and via a small undercut for your right hand, reach for small crimps on the leaning wall above, steady yourself then jump for jugs! Immediately clip a second and third (sling) bolt runner to a rest at the fourth bolt. Traverse right below the bolt and so pull round onto the slab, which is followed to meet the crack system of Central Slab. Step right out of the crack system to follow bolts across the blank slab and to a bolt belay.
Pitch 3: F5 – With the difficulties over, casually saunter up the easy slab to the bolt belay atop the second pitch of Dragon Power.
FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok 09/09/2012. Top pitch climbed 16/12/2012 with Donna Kwok.

Above the Sea, Below the Sky – F6c
Superb climbing above the water. Start as for Learning to Fly.
Pitch 1: F3 – Clip the first bolt on Learning to Fly then move left to the large groove leading to a sloping terrace. Walk along the terrace and down climb to a bolt belay just above a flat ledge.
Pitch 2: F6c – Step down left off the belay ledge and using goods holds around the arête, charge up the prow above. A good hold concludes the major difficulties and welcome ledge above. A technical groove and traverse leftwards gains a bolt belay below a hanging groove.
Pitch 3: F6c – Climb straight above the belay with a few technical moves to gain a ledge at the third bolt. Mount the foot ledge, clip a bolt and shuffle leftwards to gain a large undercut hold. From here technical moves gain improving holds and a step left into the large corner (shared with From This Moment On). Follow the corner to the top and a short ramp that leads back onto Central Slab. Bolt belay on the slab.
Pitch 4: F4 – Traverse right to the belay of Learning to Fly.
Pitch 5: F5 – Follow the final pitch of Learning to Fly.
FA: Francis Haden, Mario Wild (alternate leads) 16/09/2012. Top pitch climbed 16/12/2012 with Donna Kwok.

7 – Great Slab – HS 4c*
Pitch 1: Start at the base of an easy angled wall and move up onto a small ledge. Make an airy traverse leftwards along this until it is possible to climb up a large loose flake.
Pitch 2: Move right from the belay and climb the crack leading towards the left edge of the slab. Continue precariously up the slab with little in the way oof protection to a series of vegetated broken ledges. Continue up the left side of the slab to the boulders at the top of the cliff.
F.A. J. Ward and J.F. Bunnell (1958)

8 – White Sail – F7a
Approach from the bottom of Great Slab via a leftwards traverse just above the high tide line to a hanging belay at the base of a crack. Climb the technical crack above.
F.A. Unknown

Left Hand Side

A couple of very nice, long, routes up the most solid part of the left hand side of the gully and a route for all you contortionists out there throught the cave. Be cautious if new routing either side of these routes as the rock tends to be very loose.

1 – Cave Route Left – F6a**
Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Traverse left along the break and pull through the roof at its left hand end. Continue up the technical wall above to ring bolts.

2- Tai Chi – F6a**
Start just right of the mouth of the cave and climb a groove to a small overlap. Pull through this on large holds and continue up the slab to an open corner above. Make technical moves up the wall just right of the groove and continue up this to a horizontal break beneath a small overhang. Move right, avoiding the overhang, and climb the wall above to ring bolts.

3 – Daniels Dilema – F7c+
A truly bizarre route through the cave at the bottom of Sea Gully. Start on the left hand wall of the cave and climb up towards its roof. Continue through the cave using as many weird and wonderful techniques as possible to exit onto the wall at its far side.

The Far Side

1 – Take a Ride – F6a
Approach by scrambling left around the headland to the left wall of the cave entrance. Climb the loose white corner before moving right onto the orange headwall. Continue to anchors on the terrace above.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

2 – Ah Lun Central – F6a+
A good continuation pitch from the anchors at the end of Daniels Dilema. Climb the central pillar, between the two caves.
F.A. Ah Lun (1993)

3 – Daves Route – F7a**
Abseil 45m down the steep left (looking at it) side of the wall right of the cave to a semi hanging belay. From the belay climb up and left onto the very steep wall above. Continue up this.
F.A. Dave Hessledon (1995)

4 – Whistle in the Wind – F7a*
An alternative start to Daves Route that traverses in from the right, avoiding the hanging belay but adding considerable rope drag.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

5 – Jacky Left – F6a
Climb the bolted line just left of the centre of the wall
F.A.Jacky Tang (1995)

6 – Jacky Right – F6b*
The bolted line just right of the centre of the wall.
F.A. Jacky Tang (1995)

7 – Wheel Within a Wheel – F6a+
A relatively short climb near the right hand end of the wall.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

8 – My Ideal – F6a*
The final climb up the wall gives an enjoyable pitch that is over all too soon.
F.A. Danny Ng (2001)

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