Approach

To reach Central Crags’ Bird’s Nest Crag, follow the approach to Mid-Levels Crag but continue up the slab rather than breaking off left. From the top of the slab continues on up the hill, staying left and following a fixed rope up a short scramble, to reach the base of the lefthand side of the crag.  For the buttress on the right follow a trail leading off before the fixed rope and then scramble up to ledges at the base of the climbing.

Alternatively, head up to the Peak and enter the Lugard Road trail just behind the Peak Tower. Walk along the path for about 900 m and a few meters after the lamp post n.14611, and before the Lugard Road Lookout Observation Point, look for a mark on the iron handrail (left hand side). Climb over the handrail and enter a steep hiking path. Keep walking downward following the main trail (take a few left turns at each fork) and after 10-15 minutes you should see the left buttress of Bird’s Nest Crag.

Alberto Cirpiani produced an excellent mini-guide for the crag which can be downloaded here:
231217 BIRD’S NEST CRAG Mini-Guide

Routes

Spritz Tower

1) Soda Water F5
Arriving at the crag there is a small orange boulder, named after the famous Italian drink, the SPRITZ TOWER has three short routes. For a perfect Spritz, add 1 part of soda water in a large wine glass with some ice… (7m, 4 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

2) Aperol * F6b
…then add 2 parts of Aperol, or, any other digestive bitter if you prefer a stronger taste… (7m, 3 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

3) Prosecco F5
…and finally add 3 parts of Prosecco. Stir a bit, decorate with a slice of orange and enjoy! (7m, 4 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

4) Reprise F5
First route opened during the revamp of Bird’s Nest in 2023. Balancy moves after the start, merge with route 5 and finish up on a vertical crimpy wall. (14m, 8 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

5) Kneel ** F6a+
Interesting route to practice smearing moves, better chose a dry day to climb this route. (14m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

6) Unnamed LOL F6a
14m, 6 bolts + anchor
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

Bird’s Nest Buttress

1) Crackerfall F6a
The route starts at the base of the waterfall and runs along a crack that typically remains wet during monsoon season. Check the condition before climbing. (16m, 7 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

2) Hard Enough ** F6b
Scramble up some boulders to get to the first bolt. Interesting moves on the lower slab followed by some harder ones just before the exit. (16m, 7 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

3) Just Enough (variation) F6a+
16m, 7bolts
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Paul Collis, Cosmin Andron & Willie Muirhead (2007)

4) Just Enough * F6b
16m, 6 bolts + anchor
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Paul Collis, Cosmin Andron & Willie Muirhead (2007)

5) Mac Oyonee ** F6b+
Surprisingly technical move to engage with the dihedral rock at the beginning, followed by some exposed moves along the edge. (16m, 6 bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

Black Magic ** F6b
F.A. Ed Pramuk, Paul Collis, Cosmin Andron & Willie Muirhead (2007)

6) Birds Nest Soup ** HS*
Up the crack / corner and then finish left with a belly crawl around the boulder at the top
F.A. Jason Eng & Simon Smith (2004)

6a) Birds Nest Direct ** VS 4c
As for birds Nest Soup but finish up and over the roof at the top.
Ed Pramuk, Tom Chew & Dan Hannah (2006)

7) Toothpaste *** F7c
Easy start on the left arête followed by long moves on crimps and a shallow mono. From there smear up and squeeze the two sides of the arête before topping out. (16m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

8) Out with the Old ** F7b
Hard opening moves involving crimping on razor blades in shoulder dislocating positions (sound nice?) leads to superb and slightly dynamic climbing up the blunt arete above.
F.A. Stuart Millis (2007)

9) Poison Ivy *** F8b+
The obvious blank slab is broken by a thin vertical crack. Start using the arête for the right hand then get creative to somehow work your way up the face to the thin seam, which is followed left across the face to a couple of mono’s just before the anchor out left.
F.A Steve Townshend (2020) Equipped by Laurent Jacob in 2012

Easy Route – V Diff
F.A. Simon Smith and Jason Eng (2004)

1) Easy Way Up F5
Start just behind Poison Ivy, follow an obvious crack line that require precise foot positioning (9m, 5 Bolts)
F.A. Alberto Cipriani (2023)

2) Big Bird ** F5
The route starts from the lower ledge, descend following the handline. Climb the easier face then move onto the slab on the right side, smear up and shift over the slab behind your back and clip the anchor. (25m, 9 Bolts))
F.A. Ed Pramuk (2006)

Bird’s Nest Right

1) Lascar ** F6c
Climb the obvious and diagonally left slightly overhanging crack. The climb gets progressively harder, not jumping on the belay being part of the game. (12m, 6 Bolts))
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

2) Contribution ** F6c+
Start Lascar using the first bolt before moving right through the steep wall ahead before the crux to reach the upper edge of the crag just before the belay. (12m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

3) Concrete Poetry * F7b
A somewhat weird and unique hybrid route. Start immediately beneath the large concrete block filling the left side of the overhanging corner. Crank through the lower wall on crimps and flakes to reach a mono pocket beside the concrete. Use this and weep holes in the concrete itself to get established in the crack above. Continue up the flying arête to reach the lower off. (14m, 8 Bolts)
F.A.  Laurent Jacob (2012)

4) Unbeatable ** F8b
The overhanging prow using small crimps and slopes on both sides with many hazardous heel hooks and dyno moves. (12m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Rocky Lok (2013). Equipped by Laurent Jacob in 2012

5) Brainstorm ** F6c
Start below the obvious overhanging corner and climb it to the top. Easy start then the things become a bit complex with unusual holds and body positions. (12m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Laurent Jacob (2012)

6) Orange Gutter HS
Trad route with bolted anchor. (12m)
F.A. Jason Eng (2004)

7) Golliwogal Lives * F6a
This was originally a trad route rebolted upon permission of the original developer. The first half of the route run along a slightly overhanging crack to be climbed with a layback technique, the second part is just vertical with bigger jugs. (14m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Dan Hannah (2006)

8) Trousers Off * F6b+
From the ledge on the right side. A route with an interesting hard start, strenuous moves leading to an easier ending. Delicate second bolt clipping. Belayer needs to watch carefully. (12m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)

9) Robocop * F7a
A short but spicy route. A lot of holds have been reinforced with epoxy resin. Hence the name of the route, half natural, half artificial. There are 5 or 6 weird moves on the first bolt before reaching a clipping position for the second bolt. Follow the bolts and use the arete on the right. A possible harder line if you avoid the arete completely. (12m, 6 Bolts)
F.A. Gianfranco Bigazzi (2012)