General

Non-strenuous climbing, on high friction rock, with fantastic open views of the Lantau Hills, Cheung Sha and Pui O beaches and the Islands of the South China Sea make the long day out well worthwhile. The crag faces west and dries very quickly after rain but it can get very hot on windless mid summer afternoons.

Approach

Catch the ferry from Central, Pier 6 to Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay) on Lantau Island. From the bus station outside the ferry pier either take the bus Pui O Village (as far as you can get on bus) or catch a taxi. In Pui O take the left turn onto Chi Ma Wan Road, continuing through Ham Tin and along the road some 700 m further to the crest of the hill, Shap Leung Kau Tsuen. On the left is a concrete driveway leading to houses and on the right is a Country Park sign.

From the Country Park information board, two approaches to the crag are possible:

1) Follow the Chi Ma Wan Country Park Trail, a wide dirt path, around the hillside for about 15 minutes until you reach a dirt trail heading up the hill next to small stream and moderately sized boulder (approx. 22.2301388, 113.9818566 on the Hiking Trail HK App). This path leads up the hill to the base of the Right Buttress in about 15 minutes from the main path. About 5 m below the Right Buttress a trail breaks off left into the trees and brings you to the base of the left buttress in about 5 mins.

2) From the Country Park signboard it is also possible to follow a well maintained path towards the summit of Lo Yan Shan. From the survey beacon on top of the hill, continue on the hiking trail for 80 m to some stone steps. At the top of the stone steps turn right and go through bushes. Abseil bolts will be found on the lower left-hand corner of an easy angled rock slab (looking out to sea). A 30m abseil (mostly down easy ground) leads to a lower, fairly flat, rock platform with 3 sets of abseil chains (described looking out to sea). When leaving, it is relatively simple to scramble out to the right (looking up the hill).

Routes

Left Buttress

Your first crux of the day will be locating your preferred climb from the plethora of bolts that now adorn this wall so take your time to identify features that link up with your preferred line (hint: start from Route #19 and work back from there is a good approach)

Descent: Either carry you stuff and walk out from the top or abseil back down you preferred line. The belay stations highlighted in red link up to provide one of the swiftest routes back down the crag when using a 60 m rope:

The first four lines are located on the Upper Left Buttress, which is accessed by climbing Route #5.

1) The Damnation of Faust * F6c+
25m, 12 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

2) Get It Whilst It’s Hot ** F6b
28m, 17 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2021)

3) Time is Luck ** F6a+
1. F5+. Climb the first Pitch of Percunia Non Olet (#5). (28m, 16 Bolts)
2. F5. Climb the second pitch of Percunia Non Olet (#5). (25m, 11 Bolts)
3. F6a. (10m, 7 Bolts)
4. F6a+. (17m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & H. Tran (2021)

4) Name Taker, Heart Breaker * F6c+
15m, 9 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

5) Percunia Non Olet ** F5+
1. F5+. (28m, 16 Bolts)
2. F5 (22m, 11 Bolts)
3. F4+. (22m 9 Bolts)
4. F5. (8m, 5 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden, J. Davies & A. Patel (2021)

6) Fly Crazy But Free * F6b+
1. F6b+ (26m, 15 Bolts)
2. F5+ (19m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong

7) I Saw Jesus at the Chains * F6c
18m, 10 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

8) May I Have Your Attention Please F7a
25m, 12 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden

9) Lantau Lost Taxi Society ** F6a
A confusing line that weaves its way across a multitude of other lines on the face. be careful not to get lost amongst the sea of bolts.
1. F5. Start up Tin Hau but break out left just above the vegetated ledge to work over to another ledge system near Via Etrusca (#13). Climb the flake above the right side of this before making a traverse left above the corner on Via Etrusca to reach the belay for Routes #11 and #13 (40m, 10 Bolts)
2. F6a. Take the left most line of bolts from the belay station and follow these up a left trending ramp to reach the horizontal breaks above. Head up through these to a belay station. (18m, 12 Bolts)
3. F4. Continue directly up the easy slab above (17m, 8 Bolts)
4. F3. Walk up the even easier slab above this, leading you rightwards across the face. (12m, 5 Bolts)
5. F4. (15m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

10) Silent Treatment ** F6b+
A fine pitch linking May I Have Your Attention Please (#8) to the upper part of Ocean of Emotion (#14). (28m, 14 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

11) Unknown 1 ** F6a+
From a two bolt belay at the ltop of Can I Have Your Attention Please (#8) climb the steep wall above with a balancy crux near the top. (22m, 8 bolts).
F.A. Unknown

12) Unknown 2 ** F6c+
Another single pitch line in the middle of the face, this time following some thin intermittent cracks. (17m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. Unknown

13) Via Etrusca ** F6a+
1. F4. Climb the easy slab and ramp to reach a belay below the corner system. (10m, 5 Bolts)
2. F6a. Climb the steep wall using an assortment of good holds and cracks. (17m, 8 Bolts)
3. F6a. Follow the steep corner above the belay. (11m, 8 Bolts)
4. F4. Amble up the easy slabs above. (15m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan. (2005)

14) Ocean of Emotion ** F6a+
1. F5 (40m, 13 Bolts)
2. F6a+ (12m, 6 Bolts)
3. F5 (16m, 6 Bolts)
4. F4 (17m, 8 Bolts)
5. F4. The final pitch of Tin hau (#13). (25m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

15) On to Valhalla * F6a
1. F5. Climb the opening pitch of Tin Hau (#17) (30m, 15 Bolts)
2. F6a. Follow the line of bolts trending leftwards from the belay until a thin traverse back right below the belay. (30m, 14 Bolts)
3. F6a. Follow a fairly direct line through a steep section above the bolted stance and then on to easier ground leading to the top belay of Tin Hau.
4. F4. The final pitch of Tin Hau to reach the summit, or just abseil back down instead. (15m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. P. Collis & D. Hannah (2003)

16) God’s Waiting Room ** F6b+
21m, 14 Bolts
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2021)

17) Tin Hau ** F5
A classic line up the middle of the slab.
1. F5. Climb up the easy slab and then diagonally right across the ramp to a ledge belay. (30m, 15 Bolts)
2. F5. Follow a short groove before moving through the overlap (crux) and then up the slab. (26m, 16 Bolts)
3. F4. Easy rock diagonally right to Right abseil bolts (25m, 10 Bolts)
4. F4. If climbing to the summit, follow the common exit pitch. (25m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. M. Lancaster, A Halkyard, Au Yeung Kin & J.R Cohen (2000)

18) Silent Prayer ** F6a
1. F6a. Climb up and left to an overlap. Follow this to the slab above and continue delicately right to a belay ledge. (25m, 12 Bolts)
2. F6a. Climb off the belay and through some thin moves on dubious holds past the second and third bolts (silent prayers optional). Just above the fourth bolt step right towards blank looking rock where pockets appear to lead you back left to the next bolt. The steep section above can be taken on the right (more technical) or on the left (more butch). (25m, 13 Bolts)
3. F6a. Follow the slab trending slightly left to the belay of Tin Hau. (15m, 7 Bolts)
4. F4. If climbing to the summit, follow the common exit pitch. (25m, 10 Bolts).
F.A. P. Collis, E. Jong, Dan Hannah (2002) / (Pitch 1) P. Collis, M. Lancaster (2003)

19) Bush Sex ** F6c
1. F6b+ (25m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

20) Unknown 3 *** F6c+
The climb starts near the top of the slab abutting the toe on the right side of the buttress and is accessed via a scramble between the buttress and the slab.
1. F6c. Start up the steep partially overgrown wall before continuing up the interessting face above. (20m, 11 Bolts)
2. F6a. (30m, 12 Bolts)
3. F4. Climb a slightly shorter version of the final pitch of Tin Hau. (20m, 7 Bolts)

21) Jaqattack ** F5
Another of the original and classic lines on the wall.
1. F5. An extra pitch added after the F.A. to connect the line to the floor following the addition of a new approach route to the base of the crag. Climb the steep wall at the start of the previous route before breaking right to walk along the ledges to a belay station. (10m, 5 Bolts)
2. F5. Climb the beautiful white slab to the left of The Trough, at first overlap (crux) move right, then step back left and straight up the slab. (30m, 12 Bolts)
3. F4. Climb the rib just right of the belay station to eventually join and finish up Tin Hau. (20m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. M. Lancaster, Jaq.R.Cohen (2000)

X) The Trough – Hard Severe
A 1956 route using traditional protection. The line follows the obvious gully/corner line between Jaqattack and Keep the Faith. Start next to a tall thin detached block (don’t stand underneath it). This is the original 1956 description.
1. (15m) Up detached block then up the ensuing wall, where a hard move will tax climbers of shorter stature. Belay on ledge above.
2. (30m) Follow the line using either wall indiscriminately. At the top go left and up the arete.
F.A. Ward and Brunnell (1956)

22) Keep the Faith *** F6b+
1. F5. Follow the first pitch of Jaqattack, but continue beyond the belay station a short distance and make a further traverse right to a belay stance on some ledges.
1. F6b+. One of the best pitches at Temple. Follow the bolts up the technical slab, aiming towards the left side of the overlap at about 35m. From the groove on the left side of this make tricky moves onto the hanging slab before a technical sequence above brings better holds and a romp up to a further technical finale. (50m, 25 Bolts – but lots of these can be skipped or shuffled up by a confident party)
F.A. M. Lancaster, A. Halkyard, Au Yeung Kin (2000)

23) Tchizee ** E1 5b
A crack line with reasonable traditional protection and 1 bolt. Start from a two-bolt belay stance on the slab some 10m right of Keep the Faith. Originally climbed via abseil access but can now be linked to the early parts of Keep the Faith and breaking out right from low down on the main pitch to reach the start of the independent climbing.
1. Move diagonally right then back left to the prominent diagonal crack, step left then up steep wall moving right. Continue through a bulge and follow crack on slab to a rock over move. Trend right to a bolt runner at the right end of the head wall. Finish by a tricky move up and left from the bolt. (35m)
F.A. M. Lancaster, K. Noyes, C. Venetz (2000)

24) Buddha’s Birthday ** F6a+
Good climbing up the edge of the wall right of Tchizee. Originally accessed via abseil but can now be linked to the early parts of Keep the Faith and breaking out right from low down on the main pitch to reach the start of the independent climbing. Also originally climbed as one long pitch.
1. F6a+ (23m, 12 Bolts)
2. F6a (12m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. M. Lancaster (2002)

Right Buttress

The Right Buttress is a bit like the Curate’s Egg – good in parts. Whilst it has an abundance of good climbing, this is often broken by easy angled rock and ledge systems, which makes good continuous routes difficult to find.

1) Second Coming * F4
(15m, 8 Bolts)
F.A. V. Wong & F. Haden (2020)

2) Drill at Dawn * F4
(20m, 11 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & O. Ho (2020)

3) Return of Nothing F6a
(20m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2020)

4) Deep Progress F6a+
1. F4 (25m, 11 Bolts)
2. Scramble (2 Bolts)
3. F6a+ (40m, 20 Bolts)
4. F6a+ (25m, 14 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

5) Laws of Attraction ** F6a
(21m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & N. Firth (2020)

6) Unknown * F5
1. F4 (30m, 14 Bolts)
2. F5 (17m, 13 Bolts)
F.A. G. Bigazzi

7) Into the Wild * F5
(20m, 14 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2021)

8) Unknown 2 ** F6a+
(18m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. P. Collis & D. Hannah (2007)

9) Unknown 3 F6b+
(19m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. P. Collis & D. Hannah (2007)

10) Unknown 4 ** F6a
(20m, 8 Bolts)
F.A. P. Collis & D. Hannah (2007)

11) South Communist Morning Post * F4
(23m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2018)

12 Last DJ on the Beach F6b
(23m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & O. Ho (2018)

13) Flake O’Faith * F6a
(23m, 9 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

14) Temple Towers ** F6a
1. F5 (17m, 10 Bolts)
2. F6a (34m, 18 Bolts)
3. F6a (29m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2018)

15) Gardener’s Revenge F6a+
Climb the ledge system to the face. “Balancy” last move requiring friction for your shoes offering almost nothing for your hands. Those grabbing the chain as aid to finish will have their hand chopped off. (12 m, 5 Bolts)
F.A. G. Bigazzi & D. Hannah (2007)

16) The Antichrist * F6c
(13m, 8 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2019)

17) The Unforgiven *** F7a
(26m, 17 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

18) Spider Jam – F5+  (not shown on topo)
Follow the arête up to a large ledge. Continue up the crack system. Crux move just a couple of meters above the ledge, where the route earned its name. (25m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. G. Bigazzi, D. Hannah (2007)

19) Causa Causans ** F6a+
1. F6a+ (23m, 13 Bolts)
2. F6a+ (28m, 15 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

20) Original Sin * F5
(11m, 5 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & V. Wong (2021)

21) Premonition F6c+
(15m, 10 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden (2021)

22) Kwun Yam *** F5+
Either abseil in to the start per the first ascent or link up with one of the pitches below to gain the belay station.
1. F5+. Up fairly easily to a crux move by the 8th bolt, continue to small stance on left. (33m, 15 Bolts)
2. F5. Move right and continue up the slab above. If you are finding it too difficult, move left. Finish up the flake to the right. (35m, 16 bolts)
F.A. M. Lancaster (2002)

23) Savage Garden * F6b
(12m, 7 Bolts)
F.A. F. haden & D. Kwok (2018)

24) Chupacabra Terror ** F6a
Climb the crack left of the flake moving right at the top to share the anchor with the sport route. (12 m, 6 Bolts).
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2007) Originally on gear but retro-bolted later on.

25) Toasted – F6c+
Climb the large flake that resembles toast. Move right and to the right side of the arête. Crux move on small hand holds. (12m, 6 bolts)
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2007)

26) Pilgrim’s Way * F6a+
1. F6a (22m, 11 Bolts)
2. F6a+ (20m, 12 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

27) Pilgrim * F5+
A 30m abseil from the crest of the buttress will bring you to a bush covered ledge in its centre. Alternatively start up Kwun Yam and traverse right to reach the ledge. Start from a two bolt belay at right hand end of the ledge and follow a left-trending corner to reach a shared to belay with Kwun Yam. (30m, 7 bolts).
F.A. M. Lancaster (2002)

28) Last Temptation ** F6a
The last bolted line on the right side of the main buttress, staying right where Pilgrim’s Way breaks left and continuing directly up to the shared belay with that route. (20m, 11 Bolts)
F.A. F. Haden & D. Kwok (2021)

South Face, Right Buttress

The following routes were added to the right hand side of the right buttress in late 2004 / early 2005 and can be accessed by scrambling up the slopes on the right side of the buttress.

1) Criminal Offence F6b+
Six meters down the hill from the bolted route Robbery. Begin under a roof that is broken by a crack. Follow the crack up and over to a flake (crux). Follow the obvious crack to a large ledge and then climb the slabs to the chain anchor.
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2005)

2) Judge’s Bribe * HVS 5a
A long and straight technical line up a well protected crack. Begin two metres to the left of the bolted route Robbery. Climb up a few meters to a short horizontal crack on a downward facing flake. Follow the thin crack system up to a ledge. Climb the larger crack directly upwards stepping up through a short unprotected area (crux) to reach a small crack for protection just right of the main crack. Continue up to the chained anchor of the bolted route Robbery.
F.A. D. Hannah, G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan (2005)

3) Robbery F6b+
1. F6a+ (20m) Begin near a face with a small corner. From the face, and first bolt, move left to rock over the top of the corner feature. Continue upward over ledges and to the left of a large crack.
2. F6a (15m) From the anchor near the arete climb directly up the face and continue to an anchor on the left side (looking up) of a large boulder like rock.
3. F6b+ (9m) Move directly up the left side of the boulder and step into the crack system in the middle boulder. Move up (crux) to take the third bolt and continue to the chain anchor.
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2005)

4) Barking Deer  HVS 5a
Begin the route by reaching up into a prominent crack and bulge. Follow the crack system diagonally left until traversing left to a large ledge. Follow the corner up to the top bolted anchor shared with “Robbery”. The bolts to the left of the top part can easily be avoided by using the crack for good protection.
F.A. D. Hannah & A. Halkyard (2006)

5) Tax Evasion * E2 5c
Begin on the prominent ramp feature beside “Jailbreak”. The first four metres is unprotected slab climbing. At the top of the slab follow the crack up to a small tree. Climb directly up the crack above the tree for an exciting and exposed finish.
F.A. D. Hannah & A. Halkyard (2006)

6) Jailbreak ** HVS 5a, 4b, 4a
1. (20m) A brilliant, and well protected, crack line over a small roof. From the ground follow a crack up to a roof. From the block under the roof move left to the face (crux) and up to take the large crack. Follow the crack to the chain anchor of “Robbery” situated close to the arete.
2. (18m) From the anchor move left around the arete and then up to the left of the arete. At the ledge move far right and up to the chain anchor beneath the right side (looking up) of the boulder.
3. (12m) From the anchor continue up to the right of the boulder and finish at the anchor atop the boulder.
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi, (2005)

7) Electric Chair F6c
1. F6c (18m) The first pitch is an unbolted project.
2. F6b (12m) From the large ledge to the left of the large flake/boulder climb directly up the face. Continue directly up to the chain anchor at the start of the third pitch of Robbery.
F.A. (Pitch 2) D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi, (2005)

8) Monkeys of Doom  F6c
1. (8m) Climb over a roof and follow a thin crack to a bolted anchor.
2. (13m) From the bolted anchor climb the face right of the prominent crack. From the large ledge continue up to a chained anchor below the large boulder.
3. (9m) Climb the boulder using the crack in the middle of the boulder, and features on the right face, to a bolted anchor.
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2005)

9) Temple Monkeys E2 5c, 4c
1. (20m) This exciting traverse begins under the slab (East Wall) that is to the left of the large open book corner running to the top of the crag. Climb up two metres directly beneath the slab face just to the left of the large open book corner. Move around a short overhanging corner to a four meter long horizontal crack (South Wall). Follow the crack until it ends. Using small ledges move towards the vertical crack (crux) and continue on and a little down to the bolted anchor below the large prominent crack.
2. (12m) From the bolted anchor climb the prominent crack. Tend left to take the top ledge and continue straight up to the anchor of “Robbery”.
F.A. D. Hannah, G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan (2005)

10) Rock Buffalo F5+
Begin near the arete of the crag. Climb directly up to the slab and continue over a small roof and up to a large ledge. Climb a short face and follow a short gulley section to the chain anchor shared with the traditional routes to the right.
F.A. D. Hannah & G. Bigazzi (2005)

11) Baby Fox HS 4a
Begin under the slab to the left of the large open book corner. Follow the thin crack to the right of the slab to the open book corner and continue straight up to the chain anchor.
F.A. D. Hannah (Oct 2004)

12) Mama Fox HS 4a
Two metres up the hill from Baby Fox a short corner leads up to some ledges with bushes. Climb above the ledge and follow a long thin crack to the anchor shared with Baby Fox.
F.A. D. Hannah, G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan (2005)

13) Papa Fox VS 4c
Two metres up the path from Mama Fox a short corner leads up to bushes and a large ledge. Above the ledge, follow a two crack system straight up to a large ledge. Continue to the very top , the last ten metres, via a diagonal crack. Belay from the original abseil anchor at the top of the crag.
F.A. D. Hannah & Gianfranco Bigazzi (2005)

14) Temple Monk HS 4a
Start at the south-east corner below the small roof and slab. Climb up three metres and over to a large rocky ledge. Follow the ledge (south wall) to a corner, or alternatively to a thin crack before the corner, and follow it up to the chain anchor serving the sport route Monkeys of Doom.
F.A. D. Hannah, G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan (2005)

15) Drunk Monk HS 4a
Start at the south-east corner below the small roof and slab. Follow the crack up to the small roof. Traverse just below the roof and step up to a ledge at the same level as the roof. Traverse the ledge (south wall) and climb up the chain anchor serving the sport route Monkeys of Doom This route crosses Rock Buffalo but it is not necessary to use the nearby bolts of that route.
F.A. D. Hannah, G. Bigazzi & M. Predonzan (2005)