Bolt Failure at Monkey Buttress

We’ve recently been informed of a case of bolt failure on Evolution at Monkey Buttress, where the fifth bolt has shearing off inside the hole meaning the failure potential wouldn’t have been immediately apparent based on visual inspection alone (see image below)



Given that this bolt came from the same batch used for the majority of other routes at the crag (i.e. all routes established in 2005 & 2006), it is recommended that people avoid climbing here until such time as the current expansion bolts have been replaced with more durable glue-ins.

At this time we’re unsure what’s causing  problems with the bolts as both hangers and bolts are stainless steel and less than 10-years old.  However, better safe than sorry…

0 0 votes
Article Rating
Notify of

Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

Is this rebolted now?



Fran co

What kind of metal and what brand was used?


Crag almost re-bolted now David!

This is a shame – Monkey Butress is our local crag and we’re working our way through the routes. Come on Francis – do your thing; I’m happy to contribute to a bolt fund…