Hillside Boulders

Rocky Lok battling his way along the ultra-classic Dave’s Traverse (V5). Photo: Stuart Millis

The Hillside Boulders

1) Dirty Slapper * V4
Start on a poor side pull with the right and a small sharp pocket for the left. Lift your feet off the floor and then slap high and left for a sloping ledge and good side pull. Rock over and mantle to top out.

2) Dirty Slapper Ext. * V6
A harder (V6) start is possible traversing in from small crimps to the right.

3) Fung’s Traverse ** V8
Start on positive crimps and a good foothold just right of the arete and at a small overlap.  From here make a low traverse left until it is possible to finish up Dirty Slapper.

4) The Crack ** V2
Follow the diagonal crack line.

5) Nose Direct ** V2
Start on the good jugs and pull up and right onto the nose above. Top out using sloping holds.

6) V6 **
Starting on the good jugs at the beginning of Nose Direct, traverse right (keeping relatively low) on tiny holds to join a diagonal line of small sharp holds and slopers. Finish up these.

6a) V8 **
Sit start beneath and left of the good jugs at the beginning of Nose Direct. Crank up to these and then traverse right (keeping relatively low) on tiny holds to join a diagonal line of small sharp holds and slopers. Finish up these.

7) Slapper Left (sds) ** V4
Start sat at the large undercut hold. Pull up using this before moving left up the blunt arete to eventually reach the finishing holds on Nose Direct.

8) Slapper * V2
Start on the large undercut and climb the wall above via some rather poor slopers.

9) Flake and Mantle ** VB
The righthand side of the face using the large flake.

1) Jon’s Traverse *** V4
An excellent problem. Start on the righthand side of the boulder, at the arete, and traverse left (feet just above the floor) to finish on the slab.

2) Sick Puppy (sds) ** V4
Start on two good crimps left of the arete. Move right to a good sidepull on the arete and climb straight up from this via the rounded arete and pebbles. Stay true to the arete higher up for maximum satisfaction.

3) Nipple Grazer * V4
Start at the good side pulls approx. half way along Jon’s traverse. Climb straight up from these. A dyno from these holds to the top has been oft attempted but seldom latched!

1) Dave’s Traverse (sds) *** V5
A full body pump of a problem along the rounded boulder. From the short overhanging arete on the left of the boulder fight your way rightwards along the lip, pulling onto the slab only when you can traverse no more. A slightly harder variation (V6) is possible avoiding feet on the lower block just past half way.

Kelvin Leung is one ‘Sick Puppy’ (V4). Photo: Stuart Millis

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Dirty Slapper
Dirty Slapper
Dirty Slapper

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The Crack
The Crack
The Crack

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Nose Direct
Nose Direct
Nose Direct

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Slapper Traverse
Slapper Traverse
Slapper Traverse

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Slapper Traverse (Ext)
Slapper Traverse (Ext)
Slapper Traverse (Ext)

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Slapper
Slapper
Slapper

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Fung's Traverse
Fung's Traverse
Fung's Traverse

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Flake and Mantle
Flake and Mantle
Flake and Mantle

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Jon's Traverse
Jon's Traverse
Jon's Traverse

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Sick Puppy
Sick Puppy
Sick Puppy
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Nipple Grazer
Nipple Grazer
Nipple Grazer
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Dave's Traverse
Dave's Traverse
Dave's Traverse
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