General

Hong Kong’s premiere climbing area, Tung Lung Chau contains probably the highest concentration of quality sport climbs in the territory (the crowds on a Sunday bear testament to this). Nearly all styles of climbing are catered for as well as nearly all grades, from F4 to F8b. Beware the local climbers, they’ve got the place wired.

Further details can be found in the PDF guide here

Approach

Ferries run to Tung Lung Chau from both Sai Wan Ho (Hong Kong Island) and Sam Ka Tsuen (Kowloon, near Yau Tong) on weekends and most Public Holidays at the following times:

Sai Wan Ho Ferry:

This ferry runs from the Sai Wan Ho Typhoon Shelter (Note: not the ferry pier), from the docking area just to the east of Grand Promenade at the following times:

• Ferries from Sai Wan Ho:   09:00; 09:45; 10:30; 11:15; 12:00; 12:45; 15:15; 16:40
• Ferries from Tung Lung Chau:  09:45; 10:30; 11:15; 12:00; 14:30; 16:00; 16:45; 17:30

The Tung Lung ferry – an essential part of the Tung Lung climbing experience. Photo: Stuart Millis

Sam Ka Tsuen:

This ferry runs from the ferry pier at Sam Ka Tsuen near Lei Yue Mun at the following times:

Saturdays

• Ferries from San Ka Tsuen:   09:00; 10:00; 11:00; 15:00; 16:30
• Ferries from Tung Lung Chau:  09:40; 15:40; 17:00

Sundays & Public Holidays

• Ferries from San Ka Tsuen:   08:30; 09:50; 11:00; 13:30; 15:30; 16:30
• Ferries from Tung Lung Chau:  09:05; 10:20; 14:00; 15:30; 17:00

Note: The above timetables were valid in Aug 2014 but may have changed subsequently. As such its advisable to check the above times on the Transport Department website for details of any changes.

If you want to get to the island on weekdays, or when ferries aren’t running, a Sampan (for up to 4 people) can usually be rented from the typhoon shelter at Sai Wan Ho just by showing up and haggling with the boat operator. A speed boat (with capacity for 8 people) can be arranged by calling Mr Cheng at: 9080 3754.

On the Island

There are two main areas for climbing on Tung Lung, the main cluster of northern crags near Tung Lung Fort (including Technical Wall, Sea Gully, Big Wall and Kite Rock) and the southern crags on Tathong Point. For the northern crags, alight at the second ferry pier and follow the obvious concrete path, sign posted towards Tung Lung Fort. Continue along the path, past the Holiday Store (which provides free topo’s, strong coffee and excellent dumplings), to a camping ground. For the crags on Tathong Point, alight the ferry at the first pier and walk a short way up the hill before taking a path to the right, towards the ancient rock carving. Follow this path around the western side of the island for about 40 mins to reach Nam Tong Mei Radio Station, beneath which the crags are located. 

Breakfast at the Holiday Store – as much a part of any Tung Lung day out as the climbing itself. Photo: Stuart Millis

Technical Wall: From the camping ground follow a dirt path along the left hand side of the zawn. Carefully scramble down a short step (the Carruthers Step) and continue around the coastline to the crag. T-Wall is Hong Kong’s sport climbing piece de resistance and the place to see and be seen…

Sea Gully: From the camping ground follow a dirt path a short way up the hillside before taking another path through some bushes, to the left, and heading down into the sea gully itself. The gully has a fantastic array of technical face climbs at nearly all grade ranges.

Big Wall: Continue up the hill, past the path towards Sea Gully, and follow the dirt path along the top of the gully. A short way, 100m or so, past the end of sea gully walls lies the top of the Big Wall. Abseil stations are located at both the left and right hand sides of the wall. The wall has a number of adventurous routes for the experienced climber.

Kite Rock: At the fork in the path after the beach, head right and back up the hill until some obvious dirt paths lead off left and up the hill to the boulder. The block has a handful of short routes on sharp rock.