Black Crag

The irrepresible force of Francis Haden has been at it again, this time accompanied by Rich Cunclife, resulting in the establishment of about 25 new nicely bolted routes at ‘Black Crag’ situated next door to the well-known buttress above Blacks Link

In addition to establishing these routes, the boys have also thrown together a tidy little guide for the area – see below:

Black Crag Guide

black crag

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We did the trad route that starts from Blacks Link this morning to the left of the sport crag. Its worthwhile and not so hard, but does have a bit of loose rock and is being taken over by the jungle. Also some genius had taken a dump at the base of the final pitch. Second time in a week where I have had to experience someones else’s crap at a climbing venue in Hong Kong. We as a community should be doing more as its really disappointing.

Simon McCartney

Please stop bolting! This is not progress, does it never occur to you to leave the rock un-vandalized for others than your self.


Jason, thanks for the comments, please note the topo. Route 5 does not continue over the overhang-the anchor is underneath to prevent climbers from going any higher.

The rock quality is in the main, comparable to that of Beacon and the access certainly much easier.


The result of Frances’ excellence in bolting despite wild cats and loose rock hazard witnessed this week as two overweight fitness climbers tried some of the newest routes at Black Crag – moderate routes “De-Linked”, “Side Link” and the two identically named F5 routes “Lost Link” and “Lost Link” (hey, is that a typo?) made for a superb late afternoon. Highlight of the day was a confirmation of the loose rock hazard – particularly on the numerous untouched overhangs – the one just above Lost Link (no.5) came apart at first touch and showered the belay ledge. Definitely expecting this… Read more »